Ray's Build ... So far

[David Hartwell]

Really nice build, well done.

Dave.

[Damon Resch]

Beautiful build, Ray! Details make the tank really stand out, nice weathering touches too. Subtle and realistic.

[Ray Massa]

Thanks to all for the very nice comments.
I hope it inspires some first time builders like myself to try to do some of their own mods.

-Ray

[Aaron Taylor]

Ray can you do a tutorial on the cover and how you did the letters and numbers (MEASUREMENTS) I tried to measure the real numbers on a tank at Fort Irwin but the military police didn't appreciate data seeking (my step ladder) on fine modeling details and their display....but i may have sent customers towards armortek cause they thought the project was cool at least....so now i got to hunt down permission which takes forever.

[Ray Massa]

Ray can you do a tutorial on the cover and how you did the letters and numbers (MEASUREMENTS) I tried to measure the real numbers on a tank at Fort Irwin but the military police didn't appreciate data seeking (my step ladder) on fine modeling details and their display....but i may have sent customers towards armortek cause they thought the project was cool at least....so now i got to hunt down permission which takes forever.

Aaron,

The numbers and stars on the tank are stencils from Noostra, a company in Great Britain. It was standard stencil set he has for U.S army tanks. However, the stars were either too large or too small for the side of the turret, so I made my own out of acetate. I just used a graphics program to draw the star, but you could make it manually. I have some additional stencils being made for me, one for the back of the turret and some for the front and when I apply them I will post some new pictures.

Here are the sizes:

USA 3011991 is 5" wide
Star on the side of the turret is 3-1/4 " wide
Star on the rear is 1-1/4" wide
Rear turret letters 3011991 is 1-3/4" wide
Star on the front is 3-1/2" wide

Casting numbers used are from Plastruct. I used 5 mil letters/numbers for larger areas and 4 mil for smaller areas. I had to order them direct from Plastruct as I could not find a retailer who had them in stock.

For the mantlet cover, it is kind of hard to describe everything I had to do, but here is the general method that I used:

I simply measured all the required lengths of the straight aluminum pieces. I bought 1/16" thick, 1/2" wide aluminum and ripped it down the center. They make up the structure for the cover that bend around the mantlet and also on the side. I did this for the pieces that actually attach to the mantlet itself. I simulated how the real M26 attaches the cover by squeezing the canvas between a frame on the mantlet and a top piece that goes on top of the canvas. I bent the aluminum strips on the mantlet to get the curve perfectly. Same for the straight pieces, as they have a slight bend in them as well.

For the top aluminum pieces of the structure, I used the already formed bottom pieces as a template and bent them around the bottom pieces since they would have a slightly different profile/radius etc.

Then I drilled and tapped all the holes on the bottom pieces with a 2-56 tap. As a guide using the pieces with the tapped holes, I marked all the hole positions for the top pieces and drilled holes for the bolts to pass through. I did have to cut all hex 2-56 bolts as I could not find any the proper length that was needed (about 3/16 to 1/4")

I tried attaching the frame's pieces to the mantlet with super glue and while it stuck, it is problematic if when attaching the top and bottom pieces together with screws, the screw bottoms out and hits the mantlet it will tend to pry up the bottom piece and break the bond, so ultimately, at several places I drilled into the mantlet and tapped into it and used longer screws that go through the top piece, into the bottom piece and threads into the mantlet. That is how I would recommend it to be secured properly. Hopefully this all makes sense.

Just repeat all of the above for all the aluminum pieces. For the curved pieces on the mantlet end, I again used the straight pieces I ripped previously, found that my heavy duty vise had a section on it that had almost the perfect radius I needed to form the curve. I used a propane torch, heated the aluminum and twisted it around the vice, then I straightened any irregularities on it with a hammer and tweaked the shaped to make it as close as possible as I could. I had originally tried to cut the curved shape from flat stock on a jig saw, but like the results from bending it better.

Finally, on the canvas cover itself, I just guessed and cut a rough paper shape and taped it to the mantlet and marked areas where it needed adjustment. Then transferred the final template onto the canvas. But it took me about 6 tries to get it right. It's not perfect but it works. To punch all fifty holes into the canvas for the screws to pass, I used a fine tipped soldering iron and punched each one. It made a perfect hole and kind of sealed the edges at the same time so it did not fray.

If you follow Tony, the M26 builder on YouTube, he also made a mantlet cover and he told me he used waxed cotton. I think that is a better choice than what I used, but I just happen to have had a lot of canvas sitting around. I may replace it someday.

So that is it. Patience is what is needed.

-Ray

[Aaron Taylor]

Ray you're awesome I got the coffee or tea when we meet one day!!

[Ray Massa]

Ray you're awesome I got the coffee or tea when we meet one day!!

My pleasure to help. That's what the forum is for.

[Ray Massa]

Here are some additional and final stencils I applied tonight. I created these with a graphics program and sent out to a vinyl cutter service. I am done.

[Aaron Taylor]

Well done!!!! looks like Harry Potter be running around shrinking real Pershings with that wand of his

[Aaron Taylor]

I must say it's as exciting watching everyone build their machines as it is working on mine

[Ray Massa]

Took the first run outside today and it ran very well. These are the first pictures in natural daylight.

-Ray

[Dan Fuhrman]

Ray,

Your Pershing looks fantastic. Well done.

Dan

[Ray Massa]

Ray,

Your Pershing looks fantastic. Well done.

Dan

Thank you Dan.

[Derek Attree]

Hi Ray
Really nice build love the details and paint finish.

Regards

Derek

[Aaron Taylor]

Ray or anyone will these batteries work for the M26 are they the ones you spoke about?

12V 22AH SLA Battery for Wheelchair Medical Mobility - 2 Pack