I thought I would post a few pics on my electronics layout, and would be interested to see what others have done. I would have also liked to have seen what Armortek did for their model.
I decided on placing all major components close to each other for connectivity reasons and serviceability, also taking into account keeping certain wires away from ones that might cause interference. So far it has worked out well as I did my first run of the tank on ground and worked well.
All modules except for Module A are on a plexiglass platform suspended above the batteries on two aluminum rails that are screwed to the side of the hull. I think the pictures are self-explanatory. For the receiver antennas (I have three, two for the standard 2.4G and one for 900Mhz - it is a dual band system), I made a small plastic mount to support the antenna wires so they don't just dangle around. I added a master battery cut-out switch under the left front hatch and added a Master battery fuse under the right front hatch and fuses for Module A and B (mounted on the rear side on the hull). One of the charging cables is accessed under the right front hatch, the other is under the engine grill. Module A is mounted in the rear between the motors on a piece of plastic that is wedge shaped about 1/2" thick tapering to about 1/16" so that it tilts the Module upward so there is no stress on the wires.
Also are some images of some modifications I made to the standard kit. I added cross bracing to the mudguards, and added detail to the first aid box. For the periscopes, I added structure to the periscopes to form the truncated pyramid shape on the real tank as well as a simulated hinge and made guards out of brass. I puttied up the holes on the periscope bases and made new mounts underneath with epoxied studs.
On the commander hatch, I added detail around the periscopes by making a master form, then cast a silicone mold and then cast clear resin to make six bezels and glued on all the mounting nuts around them. Finally, on the canvas rack I made additional support structure out of brass like on the real tank, and also have cast 2 clear lenses for the rear taillights. I found a washer with the correct diameter hole and poured casting resin in it.
A couple of question just out of curiosity; The main gun has a lot of up/down play in it - is that normal? Just play in the linkages is all that I can tell. Also, when my turret turns, there are sections that where the gears are a bit more harsh sounding. I noticed that the ring gear is slightly off from being perfectly aligned with the pinion gear of the motor. Not much but the mesh is not constant throughout. It does have a lot of weight to move though. I am not too concerned really since moving the turret all that much is probably not something I would do constantly anyway.
Has anyone else found trying to mount the ring gear assembly into the hull using the countersunk screws on the side a bit difficult? With all the batteries and wires and electronics, I can barely get my fingers in there to hold the nuts. I already dropped one and now it is buried under the battery pan somewhere.
-Ray
Has taken up the slack in the barrel tilt 
I almost threw in the towel and gave up when you suggested having to remove the ( front) corner mudguard in order to adjust the track tension….
