Sherman M4A3 HVSS Build

[Andy Walker]

I used a washer in the end and it seems to work fine. The washers were zinc plated steel plain washer 9mm diameter to fit M4 screw. 0.8mm thick. It doesn't appear that I will need to locktite the bearing to the shaft now, as everything seems to work as it should.
Thanks to those that offered experience/advice

[Andy Walker]

Slow but steady progress being made.

[Andy Walker]

slow but steady progress being made.

Experimenting with placement of electronics. Made up a dummy battery using cardboard box

[Andy Walker]

positioning top deck. Thinking about fixing back deck permanently, but possibly finding some way to allow front deck removal for easy access to electronics and batteries. Will take a bit of pondering I reckon.

[Robert E Morey]

Looking great. I was thinking of fixing the upper deck (with turret ring) permanently - but making the rear deck removable. Possibly held in pace with magnets. I'm still pondering too. Great progress.

What did you use to goop the inside seams? I'm thinking of using paintable window caulk.

HNY!
Bob

[Andy Walker]

Looking great. I was thinking of fixing the upper deck (with turret ring) permanently - but making the rear deck removable. Possibly held in pace with magnets. I'm still pondering too. Great progress.

What did you use to goop the inside seams? I'm thinking of using paintable window caulk.

HNY!
Bob

Hi Bob,
I used normal clear silicon sealant from a hardware shop. I found one which came self contained and ready to go, as it had a pumping lever on the tube already, so no need for a dispensing gun. The tube was also sort which made it easy to get into all the little nooks and crannies.

I had considered making the rear deck removable, but it would only give access to the smoke unit and speakers.

[Andy Walker]

I have been trying out different methods that will enable me to have just one of the top decks permanently fixed and the other removable, to enable easier access to the battery and for maintenance. In the end I decided having the back deck fixed would be more beneficial.
I used Neodymium magnets, aluminium bar and steel strips to provide a retaining mechanism.

[Andy Walker]

Having decided to make the front deck removable I still want to try and have all the weld lines. At the front where the top deck meets the sloping front armour I fitted a section of 3mm right angle brass strip to the top edge of the front armour. This was placed so as to enable the front edge of the top deck to slide underneath at an angle, and then when the back is lowered it fits flush underneath it. I then ran a line of milliput weld along the V of the brass strip. Hopefully the brass strip will protect the milliput weld from damage when the top plate is taken in and out. It seems to work so far. I now have to figure out how to do the side welds.

[Adrian Harris]

One idea is to machine a step into the hull upper parts, so that you can lay a bead of weld in the step, and it comes up with the hull when you remove it.

When you put the weld on the lower part, there's always a risk of damaging it as you put the hull down. With it on top of the aluminium, it's much more protected.

Adrian.

[Andy Walker]

One idea is to machine a step into the hull upper parts, so that you can lay a bead of weld in the step, and it comes up with the hull when you remove it.

When you put the weld on the lower part, there's always a risk of damaging it as you put the hull down. With it on top of the aluminium, it's much more protected.

Adrian.

That is another option...for those with the equipment
One reason I went for the method I chose is that the weld is on the main body of the tank and is therefore not going to be bashed around by moving. If I put the weld on the top deck (which will be removed at some point) there is always the chance it could get knocked while separate from the tank. With my current setup, the top deck slides in at an angle underneath the brass strip / weld bead and then as I lower the back end it fits up snugly from underneath. I suppose only time will tell if it works.....but I don't envisage having to remove it very often.

[Andy Walker]

Does anybody know what spec led bulbs are used in the headlight lighting pack for the sherman easy eight? I was trying to thread the headlight bulbs up through the front hull plate into the headlights and the bulbs came off the wires. I am looking to buy some more to replace these. Any suppliers names would be useful to

[DaveMacri]

I used LED’s for model RR, you can get them from Evandesigns.com, on my Sherman all the lights operate. I recommend the Mega and Deka size and request the resistors loose so you can thread the small wires in threw front of light. I also use moulding clay or wax to hold the LED in place.

[Andy Walker]

I used LED’s for model RR, you can get them from Evandesigns.com, on my Sherman all the lights operate. I recommend the Mega and Deka size and request the resistors loose so you can thread the small wires in threw front of light. I also use moulding clay or wax to hold the LED in place.

Thanks for reply Dave. I was wondering what the voltage etc of the bulbs were that Armortek supply for the Sherman HVSS, as I was going to just solder new bulbs onto the end of existing wiring loom....I hope.

[DaveMacri]

The AT system is 24 volt, most bulbs are 12 volt or under, I use a voltage reducer in all my builds to bring it down to 12 volt and then the resistor that comes with the LED reduces it to proper voltage. The nice thing about the LED's from Evan Design is they are 28 gauge wire and fit through the smallest conduit.

[Andy Walker]

I've a query about the elevation actuator setup. As supplied the 'piston' appears to have too much travel. Once fitted I think it will continue to travel after the barrel assembly has reached its limit of travel in both directions. Does anyone know if this is the case? If so is there a way to alter/adjust the amount of 'piston' travel. I have tried to do this by adjusting servo travel on transmitter but all this does is slow the speed of the 'piston' down, it doesn't alter travel distance.