Detlef's Tiger 131 / s. SS-Pz.-Abt. 101 Normandy

[Detlef Giessmann]

Hi Guys,

today i show you how to paint the tank:
After applying the Zimmerit, I have sprayed this layer with plastic primer.
Then I have painted the Zimmerit with Etch Primer.
(Spraying is not necessary, it makes no difference in the end.)
All components now have the same characteristics before the 2K painting starts.
Very important when you use matt colors
I only used 2K paint.
My 1K primer is not dissolved by the 2K color.
2K colors facilitates future work, such as the sticking of the tires, etc.
I will also show how to stick the gummy wheels.

My materials:
RAL 6003 - olive green custom-made in 2K / http://www.militaerlacke.de
(all parts approximately 350 ml)
RAL 1817 - reddish-brown custom-made in 2K / http://www.militaerlacke.de
(all parts approximately 350 ml)
RAL 7028 - dark yellow Mipa 2K-Purlack http://www.frickwork.de
(all parts approximately 1500 ml)

I want to mention here that I have compared many color manufacturers with museum vehicles.
The aforementioned colors are very similiar with the museum vehicles.
It is very difficult to find the hue of that time.
The colors of the museum vehicles have also changed through the ages.
I tried to find the most suitable variant in two years.

Tools:
Spot Repair Spray Gun 0.5mm (omnidirectional) for larger parts
Airbrush gun with nozzle 0.3 and 0.5mm


Greetings,
Detlef

[Detlef Giessmann]

2/2

[Iacopo Di Giampietro]

Work is really very nice and clean. Thank you for sharing with us this information about the painting process: the result is truly remarkable.

[Kent Wiik]

Hi Detlef,

Wery nice, well done. This is one of the best 1 company SS101 Mid Tiger I have seen here on this forum.
Just one question...why no zimmerit on the horizontal front plate? All zimmerited Tiger1 had it.



Kind regards
Kent

[Detlef Giessmann]

! Warning error RAL 1817 - Reddish-brown is RAL 8017!

Hello Kent,

thanks for your feedback.
It is true that most Tiger Tanks had Zimmerit on the front.
But there are no detailed pictures from the Tiger 131, so I could contribute own ideas.
Horizontally mounted Zimmerit is problematic in terms of dust and dirt.
You have to clean this areas more than the others.
This leads to the fact that these areas will change strongly.
I want to spare me that.
It is also easier to make the model obsolete, than to make it younger.
The additional application of Zimmerit is possible without great effort.
Even my airbrush painting is different from the original Tiger 131.
But honestly, the original paint was applied quickly so I wanted to spare the untrained eye.
In my model without combat the original coating would mean a reduction of the overall work.
The situation is different with old-made models.
The idea to build a model with battle scars or an unused model should be decided before construction starts.
Also some original Zimmerit coatings are partially an impertinence.
The former coatings therefore were more likely earmarked.
(Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.)

(@Iacopo: thanks for your feedback, I like to do it.)

Greetings,
Detlef

[Detlef Giessmann]

Here you can see my mess
Next time: stick tires

1/3

[Detlef Giessmann]

2/3

[Detlef Giessmann]

3/3

[Detlef Giessmann]

The last remaining space is filled.
Benedini Smoker in a different way.

Next time: stick tires!

[Detlef Giessmann]

Hello!

A note for those interested without Armortek kit experiences.
The tiger shown here should not be understood as a deterrent.
My Tiger 131 is my own chaotic model.
Today Armortek kits are now so perfect that the assembly can be built with little effort and simple tools.
The electrical-electronic component is easy to install.
The company Armortek offers everything to produce a working model with nice special features.
Also the support of Armortek is excellent.
The Model kits focus today in the paint and surface design.
Most Scale components (special screws, cables, brackets, tools, hoes,drives etc.) I have made myself of solid material.
The manufacturer Armorpax offers very nice pieces at reasonable prices.
My images are to be understood only as an inspiration, for example, How can I attach a cable differently.

Greeting,
Detlef
---------
DE
Ein Hinweis für Interessenden ohne Armortek-Kit Erfahrungen.
Der hier gezeigte Tiger soll nicht als Abschreckung verstanden werden.
Mein Tiger ist mein eigenes chaotisches Modell.
Die heutigen Armortek Bausätze sind mittlerweile so perfekt, dass die Montage mit geringem Aufwand und einfachen Werkzeugen gebaut werden können.
Auch die Elektrisch-Elektronische Komponente ist einfach einzubauen.
Die Firma Armortek bietet hier alles, um ein funktionstüchtiges Modell mit schönen Sonderfunktionen zu fertigen.
Auch der Support ist hervorragend.
Der Schwerpunkt der Modell-Kits liegt heute eher in der Lackierung und Oberflächengestaltung.
Die meisten Scale anbauteile (Sonderschrauben, Seile, Halterungen, Werkzeuge, Hacken, sowie Antriebe ) habe ich mir aus Vollmaterial gefertigt.
Der Hersteller (z.B.) Armorpax bietet hier sehr schöne Teile zu vernünftigen Preisen.
Meine Bilder sollen nur als Inspiration verstanden werden, z.B. wie kann ich ein Kabel noch befestigen/verlegen usw..

[Detlef Giessmann]

Hey Guys!

Today:
How to stick the wheels.

Materials:
- Aceton (for cleaning)
- 3x 20g Loctite 480 (+/-)
- Cloth (for cleaning)

Attention!:
- never paint adhesive surface
- clean surfaces with acetonDon’t worry, the wheels wont be destroyed by the aceton

Before sticking the wheels, you have to put them on the edge of a wheel (for stretching).
So the adhesive is not pushed down during fixing.
The edge has the ideal level for stretching.

Now you have to coat the glue, but not to the brim.
Hold the wheel perpendicular and turn it regulary, then the glue will not flow to the bottom

Don't worry, you still have a lot of time!!!
Wheel flat on the table top.

Now you have to pull of the wheel from the other wheel and immediately put on the wheel you have to stick.
Now the high reaction of the glue starts!!
Attention!
The tires must be in a short time have the correct position!
Don’t look at the pollution.
Press something on the tread!
Pay attention to the position.
Attention!
After hang up the tire you have just a few seconds to positioning!!

Stretch the last wheel with your hands.
The advantage of a 2K paintwork is:
After all wheels have been sticked, you can clean every wheel with aceton.
Wipe from the inside out.
You have a lot of time.
Here you can see the result:

Greetings,
Detlef


I’ve destroyed my first wheel because of a wrong position.
I could remove the rest of the gummy just with a lathe.
This glue is briliant



The next time?
???

[Adrian Harris]

Very interesting method Detlef. I've not seen people stretch the tyres like that before.

For disassembly, I use Acetone to clean up the wheels on second-hand models which I have bought, as it turns hardened epoxy glue into a jelly, which can be easily wiped off. I normally use an old paint tin and soak them overnight.

Adrian.

[Detlef Giessmann]

Hello Adrian,

thank you that you are interested in my work.
Your method overnight is a good thing.
I'm not sure how the 2K coating would react overnight in acetone.
Perhaps the Armortek admin rectify my idea and copy it to the Knowledge Based.
I won’t write something there because of my bad english. And I won’t to unsettle interested people or new Armortek kit owner.
I have a lot of parts manufactured for my Tiger..
Maybe it will look chaotic for new owners or interested people.
(Armortek has permission to use my pictures and texts, without limitation)
The Theme Zimmerit would be interesting too for the knowledge based.
My Zimmerit is absolutely easy to manufacture.
Because of the downwardly inclined structure, it is also easy to clean.


Greeting
Detlef

[Stian Sollie]

Great writeup for a fresh T1 owner like myself . Many Nice tips here

[Robert E Morey]

Detlef,
I like your technique for zimmerit - very clean and fast. Unlike milliput which can take days to apply.
Bob