Centurion query

davidwilkins · Post by **davidwilkins** » Sun Feb 03, 2013 6:17 pm

Hi guys, had my first tinker with my Centurion. Assembled the hull and tried to square everything up but found the front upper plate did not seem to fit flush to the side panels. The brackets appeared to be not bent far enough. Has anyone else experienced this? Is this the norm and do you just makes adjustments and tighten up leaving this gap?

Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

See attached

Adrian Harris · Post by **Adrian Harris** » Sun Feb 03, 2013 8:11 pm

It is normal for the angle brackets to spring back slightly once bent, so a little adjustment may be necessary.

You may also find you need to clean up the edges of parts to make sure two pieces sit snugly together, whether that's deepening a cut or smoothing the sharpness off an edge.

Adrian.

Stephen White · Post by **Stephen White** » Sun Feb 03, 2013 9:33 pm

David

Nothing unusual here, I had the same. There are three issues. Firstly, the lateral overlap (where the glacis plate is wider than the hull sides) mirrors the real thing. Mark has got the scale effect just right. Secondly, the brackets can be a little out. The easiest way to deal with it is to take a small modelling needle file, enlarge the holes a touch and drop the brakcets until the gap disappears. The third issue needs a bit more work with a flat file if you want the glacis to sit flat or normal to the hull sides. This is because the hull sides are not vertical. The small outward splaying causes the innner edge of the hull sides to sit slightly higher that the outer edge. The model will be perfectly OK like this and you could just fill the gap with a fake weld. Or you could take a file and relieve the edge until it is normal to the plane of the glacis. Either way is OK.

Hope this helps.

Regards.

Stephen

davidwilkins · Post by **davidwilkins** » Mon Feb 04, 2013 5:48 pm

Hi, Adrian & Stephen

Thanks the reply and suggestions, I will file a little away just to make the plate sit flush to sides.

Regards

David.

davidwilkins · Post by **davidwilkins** » Wed Mar 04, 2015 2:34 pm

Hi Guys

I have just had a tinker with turret and gun mantlet as I am waiting for some material to arrive. According to my research the gun depression was 10 degrees and the elvation was 18 degrees, but on fitting mine it was about 2 degrees and 15 degrees. Is this a normal fit for the model or can it be made to a depression of 10 and elvation of 18 degrees ?. will the motor unit allow for this much movement ?. (I do not have the motor unit yet)

Any suggestion would be most appreciated.

Regards

David

Chris glover · Post by **Chris glover** » Wed Mar 04, 2015 10:32 pm

Not measured it myself accurately but I think you will be struggling to get that much elevation and depression .I don't think the motor will drive that far.You have to set the limit switches a touch shorter than the motor will drive or you start bending the recoil bracket inside .Better to be safe than sorry.
I will try and put some pictures up of mine tomorrow
Chris

davidwilkins · Post by **davidwilkins** » Thu Mar 05, 2015 7:56 am

Hi Chris

Many thanks for the quick response, any photos would be appreciated. I will not do any alterations until I have all the option packs and understand how it all works.

As you say better to safe than sorry.

Regards

David

Chris glover · Post by **Chris glover** » Thu Mar 05, 2015 9:35 am

Hi David,
Some pics of mine.I haven't done any fiddling with the elevation at the moment other than to make sure nothing gets bent.I still have the recoil to fit so I suspect I could get more deppression with a few adjustments.
Chris

davidwilkins · Post by **davidwilkins** » Fri Mar 06, 2015 7:09 pm

Hi Chris

Many thanks for the pictures I will wait until I have all the options and fully understand the installation process before doing any cutting or filling.

David

davidwilkins · Post by **davidwilkins** » Tue Apr 07, 2015 11:40 am

Hi All

I am trying to get all of the optional extras fitted to my centurion tank, I have spaced them out to try and get good access to all of the modules. I have decided to fit a backup set of batteries and this where I am stuck.

I was thinking of connecting the two sets of batteries to one switch that selects which set of batteries I am using and also cuts all power to the power supply module (on/off/on) if that makes sense.

1/ what type of switch do need and where would be able to get one?

2/ The main red and black wires how do I identify a code for this cable and again where would I be able get some from?

3/ My speaker and the cable from the power supply module are a bit short for my layout so I would like to put longer ones in to improve my layout. How do I identify a code for this cable and where would I get some from?

I really am out of my depth this electronic stuff, so I am really taking my time on this job. I hope this all makes sense any help advise would gratefully received

Kind Regards

David

Ian Collins · Post by **Ian Collins** » Wed Apr 15, 2015 4:35 pm

David

The best I can offer is you take a sample of the wire to Halfords or Maplin and they will provide you with options on the wire.
I can not remember the current drawn by the system when operating I did test it at work and I think it is less the 10Amps.

I used connectors on my system to connect the battery to the system and my charging set, these are used on Golf carts and available from the web. If you look at my diagram on the thread you will see the way I connected the system up, you could use a similar system but wired up for two independent batteries.

Hope this is of some help

Ian

Paul Morris · Post by **Paul Morris** » Wed Apr 15, 2015 5:30 pm

Hi David.

As far as the wire goes I am pretty sure if you asked Gill when they get back from Germany she would send you a bit of wire to help you out.
She's always been very helpful.
Cheers Paul.

davidwilkins · Post by **davidwilkins** » Thu Apr 16, 2015 8:38 am

Hi Ian / Paul

Many thanks for your reply's and input. I contacted Gill and Mark at armortek for advise and help and they have sorted me out on the wiring, from the first time I contacted them back in 2012 about buying a centurion tank to where I am now they have been absolutely brilliant.

Ian, I think I have the re-charging solved I will look up your diagram to see how you set it up.

Regards

David

Stephen White · Post by **Stephen White** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 9:24 pm

David (and Chris)

I've just got onto the elevation question. As you say, the real vehicle allowed a nominal 18 deg in elevation and ten in depression for both the 20 pdr and 105mm. I've measured the current setup on my model as 7.5 deg elevation and 13 deg depression. I'm now going to remove material in order to achieve the full range of movement although as you say, the leadscrew will provide a finite range of movement. I'll post some pictures on my thread. With the current setup, any fouling can be avoided by setting the limit switches but I'd like to achieve a range of movement more representative of the real vehicle.

Regards

Stephen

Chris glover · Post by **Chris glover** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 11:00 pm

Stephen White wrote:David (and Chris)

I've just got onto the elevation question. As you say, the real vehicle allowed a nominal 18 deg in elevation and ten in depression for both the 20 pdr and 105mm. I've measured the current setup on my model as 7.5 deg elevation and 13 deg depression. I'm now going to remove material in order to achieve the full range of movement although as you say, the leadscrew will provide a finite range of movement. I'll post some pictures on my thread. With the current setup, any fouling can be avoided by setting the limit switches but I'd like to achieve a range of movement more representative of the real vehicle.

Regards

Stephen

Hi Stephen

I haven't actually tinkered much with this at the mo.The limiting factor appears to be the lead screw.I can't say I have noticed any material clashes.Having said that, mine may have already been work on.
I like your idea for the linear actuator.I have seen some German (Panther) I think on you tube using this method.
Chris

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