Steve's Mid Production Tiger
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Steve's Mid Production Tiger
Well I’ve started my build in earnest. When I started I thought this isn’t going to take too long, it’s just bolt everything together, but so far I must have built and stripped down the hull 3 or 4 times over the last few months. As others have found some of the panels and fixing holes need some minor filing to get a closer and square fit.
I also found that the Pannier Floors were about 1mm too wide, which resulted in the Pannier Sides not bolting down vertically, as you can see from the uneven gaps in the photos. Following advice given on the forum, I placed the Pannier Floors in a vice and used a hammer to square up the folded edge, which reduced the width and closed the gap.
In between my work on the Hull, I started work on the Engine Deck. After checking out several websites, books and other people’s work on the forum I started on some improvements. The kit parts are great, but lacked some finer details. I also removed material from the Deck Plate that could be seen through the air intake grill, as I thought this was unsightly and would not adversely affect the strength of the Deck Plate.
Both the intake and outlet Grills needed some material removed as the real thing has gaps in the castings + the hook brackets were the wrong shape as the real thing is a welded bracket rather than a part of the casting. I also noticed that the air intake Grills are suppose to be identical rather than mirror images of each other, but decided it would be too much work for me to radically alter or make a new Grill.
I’ll also be adding some welds to the engine deck area, including the hook brackets and catches, although my first attempt was a bit pants. I used milliput for the first time, but it was rock hard when I took it out of the box and I had difficulty rolling it out to form the weld seams. Did I get a duff box or is there a knack in using milliput?
I’m using 3mm magnets (+ 3mm aluminium or brass bar to be sourced) to raise the height of the Engine Cover. I’ve also decided to lower the Rear Engine Cover as I believe this looks correct, although I could find no pictures or plans to back this up. The next stage is to cut down the Engine Cover Hinges, but I’m just building up the courage to do this.
To lower the square headed bolts, I decided to counter bore the bolt holes to the Air Outlet Grills, Radiator Covers and the Rear Engine Cover. Then I went a bit mad by only counter boring the those holes I felt were absolutely necessary for securing these parts down to the Deck Panel. All the remaining holes were drilled straight through so the bolts are only fixed to the Deck. The plan is to file down the heads of those bolts still sitting proud in the counter bored holes. I’m hoping that the filed down bolt heads will not be noticed without a close up inspection.
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Thanks for posting these pictures. I have almost the same parts on order with Steve and am expecting delivery in early Feb. Not getting the tool box though as I'm working on a late tiger. The parts look great. Looking forward to getting mine now.
Just got a mail from Steve. My parts ready for shipment also.
Just got a mail from Steve. My parts ready for shipment also.
Last edited by John Fitzsimons on Wed Jan 26, 2011 12:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Managed to do a bit more work.
Does anyone have any details for the rear engine cover, i.e. for a Mid Tiger. My cover has a round hump with a hole in the centre, as can be seen in the photo below.
Found that my front deck is about 2mm too long, so it currently sit ontop of the rear deck and the fixing holes are out of alignment.
Does anyone have any details for the rear engine cover, i.e. for a Mid Tiger. My cover has a round hump with a hole in the centre, as can be seen in the photo below.
Found that my front deck is about 2mm too long, so it currently sit ontop of the rear deck and the fixing holes are out of alignment.
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Milliput
Steven
Milliput softens when you warm it. Five mins on top of a radiator will do the trick. Another tip is to moisten your tools and fingers when you're handling to reduce adhesion. Be careful however to avoid getting any water between the Milliput and the surface on which you want it to sit or it will slide around and not stick.
Regards
Stephen
Milliput softens when you warm it. Five mins on top of a radiator will do the trick. Another tip is to moisten your tools and fingers when you're handling to reduce adhesion. Be careful however to avoid getting any water between the Milliput and the surface on which you want it to sit or it will slide around and not stick.
Regards
Stephen
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- Posts: 65
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- Posts: 65
- Joined: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:59 pm
- Location: Chelmsford
- Been liked: 12 times
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- Posts: 65
- Joined: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:59 pm
- Location: Chelmsford
- Been liked: 12 times
Re: Steve's Mid Production Tiger
Having finished another little project, I’m back to my Tiger build. My build is a bit all over the place at the moment, with lots of things started but not much finished.
I’ve started on the suspension and wheels.
Using an orbital sanding disc fitted to a pedestal drill, I cut flats to one end of each torsion bar.
Having removed the burs and the cleaned up the axles, the torsion bars were fitted. Yes I’ve used thread lock on the grub screws and now realise these will NOT fit passed through the bushes, so I’ll have to attempt to remove the grub screws before fitting them to the tank. HELP, is heat my only option to release the screws, or is there a solvent I can use?
Here’s my assembled axles waiting for the flats to be cut at the other end of the torsion bars.
Here’s my jig for setting the suspension arms. I know there’s been a lot of these posted on the forum, but it may help someone out to learn from my mistake. At first I was quite pleased with my jig; the theory was to use both sides of the jig to cut flats at 35o for each set of axle assemblies, which I found out was WRONG. I’d just cut flats on one set of torsion bars using the left hand side of the jig, and then I cut the first torsion bar of the second set using the right hand side of the jig, and luckily checked it against the first set and found that both axles pointed in the same direction, which is incorrect. The trick was to use the same side of the jig for all the axles, but to move the jig to the opposite side of the drill. This ensures both sets point in opposite directions when fitted into the tank.
First set of flats being cut using the left hand side of the jig, with the jig to the left of the drill.
Second set of flats being cut using the same side of the jig, but with the jig placed to the right of the drill.
Road wheel hubs with the bearings fitted and glued in place + primed using etching primer and normal auto grey primer.
I’ve started on the suspension and wheels.
Using an orbital sanding disc fitted to a pedestal drill, I cut flats to one end of each torsion bar.
Having removed the burs and the cleaned up the axles, the torsion bars were fitted. Yes I’ve used thread lock on the grub screws and now realise these will NOT fit passed through the bushes, so I’ll have to attempt to remove the grub screws before fitting them to the tank. HELP, is heat my only option to release the screws, or is there a solvent I can use?
Here’s my assembled axles waiting for the flats to be cut at the other end of the torsion bars.
Here’s my jig for setting the suspension arms. I know there’s been a lot of these posted on the forum, but it may help someone out to learn from my mistake. At first I was quite pleased with my jig; the theory was to use both sides of the jig to cut flats at 35o for each set of axle assemblies, which I found out was WRONG. I’d just cut flats on one set of torsion bars using the left hand side of the jig, and then I cut the first torsion bar of the second set using the right hand side of the jig, and luckily checked it against the first set and found that both axles pointed in the same direction, which is incorrect. The trick was to use the same side of the jig for all the axles, but to move the jig to the opposite side of the drill. This ensures both sets point in opposite directions when fitted into the tank.
First set of flats being cut using the left hand side of the jig, with the jig to the left of the drill.
Second set of flats being cut using the same side of the jig, but with the jig placed to the right of the drill.
Road wheel hubs with the bearings fitted and glued in place + primed using etching primer and normal auto grey primer.
Last edited by Steven Day on Sat Dec 17, 2011 12:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Steve's Mid Production Tiger
Steven,
Heat is your best option for loosening the loctite. I use a mini hand held torch and it works great.
If you are using a Mac and get a 503 error message with photobucket, just reboot your pc.
Rocky
Heat is your best option for loosening the loctite. I use a mini hand held torch and it works great.
If you are using a Mac and get a 503 error message with photobucket, just reboot your pc.
Rocky
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Re: Steve's Mid Production Tiger
Hello Steven,
I cut down the two grub screws on each axle so they can pass
through the copper bushes. And it's also easy if you want to remove your axles,
you have to loosen just the main grub screw M 5 or M 6 on the other end
of the axle
regards Yves
I cut down the two grub screws on each axle so they can pass
through the copper bushes. And it's also easy if you want to remove your axles,
you have to loosen just the main grub screw M 5 or M 6 on the other end
of the axle
regards Yves
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Re: Steve's Mid Production Tiger
Thanks, I now have a couple of options.
I try uploading the pictures later today
Steve
I try uploading the pictures later today
Steve
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