KT 2019 #29

[Mark Allen]

Stick with it. I had to go through it too a few months ago. I too was used to old school R/C systems.

You are getting there just getting the receiver bound to the transmitter. There are great posts in here about the setting specifically for your transmitter to get things moving (no pun intended).

Start simple as outlined in the modules instruction book. Lets just get the tracks moving in the correct directions first.

Also, there is a great book out there detailing the OpenTX and the Taranis transmitter. I am at work so cant give the title, but when I get home I will edit this to include it.

Adrian's screen shots should help you a lot, they did it for me.

Dont give up, you can do it!

[Mark Allen]

Ok, the book is named "XD9+ User Manual Open TX 2.3"

92 pages of hard copy reference.

Dont get overwhelmed, you need probably only 10% of the capabilities of this system to get things going.

Start getting your head around these four elements of the Taranis Open TX system:

MODELS: There are numerous "slots" to place each of your models in. They can all be radically different, that is the strength of this system.

INPUTS: Not a single physical control is connected to any channel in the Transmitter. You decide what control does what, and where it gets routed to. Doing this is required.

MIXES: Powerful area here. Here you decide how an input (defined above) is treated with all sorts of options. In mixes you can do things like make track controls single stick vs two stick.

OUTPUTS: Nothing happens until you assign what goes to what radio "channel".

Do you have enough documentation that you can navigate yourself around the Transmitter screens?

[Michael Allen]

Nearly 5 years after its manufacture and 15 months into its build KT29 has finally moved by its own steam!

Whilst clearly some work still to be done I am delighted to finally see it move.

However its maiden voyage lasted less than 5 metres before the left hand track jumped off the sprocket

It was not entirely surprising as the tracks appear to be so slack and I have been unable to tighten them up any further.

I have checked that the idler wheel, road wheels and sprockets line up, I cannot lengthen the torsion bolts any further as they are at the end of their travel (the longer bolts are fitted) and I cannot take out a track set. I’ve looked at fitting still longer bolts but any further travel would force the tracks up into hull surface.

The wheels are presently set at 30 degrees - could/should I increase this to say 35 degrees?

When set on the ground the top tracks just sit on the wheels.

Can anyone point me in the right direction as I don’t think the search function is yet working on the new server.

I’d also like to find a picture showing just how much I need to file off the sprocket teeth - I think mine are ok but I’d just like to double check if anyone can help.

[Didier Molard]

hello.
if impossible to remove one link, may be have a look in the craftsman's market, there is someone who has made a batch of "extended" idler cranks for solving that issue (King Tiger / Jagdtiger -Return Idler Cranks first batch seems to be sold out, may be another one has been launched ...)
Regards

[Will Roberts]

Hello Michael,

I own a nicely running 2009 KT ( Turret Number 008) and have also been helping another chap in Swindon with his which exhibited the same issue with getting the correct track tension. We eventually went down the route of obtaining a pair of Liam Mahoneys revised idler cranks to increase the range of track tension. Paul Sparks (UK) may have a set left if you want to go down that route. If however you want to strip the tank down then the issue we had was that the track bottomed out on the underside of the sponsons which prevented me from getting the full tension I needed. So the first thing I would do is strip the tank down to just the lower hull, removing turret, upper hull plate and sponsons. This will reduce the weight and also give you the bonus of being able to get the maximum adjustment on the idler cranks.
Run the tank like this and see if it will work without throwing a track. If it works "run" the track and running gear in using this configuration. The track will "stretch" so it may be necessary to remove a link at some point. If this doesn't work then you will have to adjust the torsion bars by increasing the angle as you mention. If you need moral support then bring it along to the Open Day and we will try and help out.

Kind regards,

Will.

[Michael Allen]

Will

Firstly can I thank you for taking the time for such a comprehensive reply, without this forum KT29 would have no chance of ever getting sorted.

I did think of Paul’s idler cranks but from memory I think he described them as the basic ones so I guess he also got hold of the improved version.

The search facility on this forum doesn’t seem to be able to reach legacy posts yet only newly posted items - I hope that gets resolved soon or I will be in a pickle.

At this stage I am not sure that I want to strip off the sponsons - I’ve spent forever getting this far - the turret and top deck aren’t fixed at all so are readily removed.

I won’t get the time to play until the weekend and unless any better ideas spring to mind I’ll have a go at changing the angle of the wheels by say 5 degrees, lighten the weight as much as possible and see if I can run the track in at all - if not then I guess I am stripping the sponsons off, finding some longer bolts and see if it gets any where.

There’s me thinking I was getting near the finish line at last

I will be at the open day all things being equal but unlikely to drag the kit along. I am more interested in trying to get answers to a long list of questions that I already have to try and finish this build.

Regards

Mick

[Paul Sparkes]

Michael,

I dont have any of Liams Idlers left but I can help you with others if you need them.

[Michael Allen]

Thanks Paul but it’s sorting out the track tension that’s proving a little beyond me at present. I don’t there is anything wrong with the idlers but the tank didn’t make 20 feet before the tracks came off the front spindle.

Regards

Mick

[Paul Sparkes]

Michael, the idler adjusters can help this problem. We needed some on the JT. I have my old set available if you need some.

[yves mouton]

Hello Michael,

I use longer tension bolts to adjust my KT tracks.

Best regards Yvres

[Michael Allen]

Thanks Yves

I am using the longer bolts supplied with the options pack but if I fully extend them the tracks hit the underneath of the sponsons.
If I loosen the bolts a little then the track jumps off the sprockets. I cannot take out a track set as the track will not then join up.

I’m clearly not the first builder with this issue so welcome all thoughts from those who have resolved it.

Once again many thanks for your kind input


Mick

[Paul Sparkes]

Liams and other idler adjusters have a longer throw so the idler wheel moves further allowing for a slacker or tighter track. We needed to slacken the tracks and loose a link, now its perfect and I have adjustment in both directions.

[Michael Allen]

Paul

Do you happen to know how many links you are now running on?

Also, Is there any chance of more idlers being available in the near future to your knowledge?


Mick

[Adrian Harris]

Apologies for asking this, but is the idler arm installed with the idler below the centre line of the mounting bush, as per the attached drawing ?

Like that, the idler sweep is from 4:30 to 7:30 on a clock face. I ask because I don't think I've ever seen a KT with the tracks so close the panniers.

My KT is away being painted at the moment, or I would check the clearance.

Adrian

[David Battson]

Hi Adrian,
Always below as far as I'm aware. I've never seen pictures of real Tiger i or ii or Panther with the axel arms above the centre line.
David