Best RC Controler

[Gerhard Michel]

To reduce or stop the inner track of a tank turning right or left, a seperate RC - brake device is not needed when the ESC includes an EMF-brake system. Then a flyback diode can shorten the inner track motor instead of letting it run free like normal ESCs do. A shortened inner track motor will no more follow the outer track motor, and the tank follows the RC command for turning instead of running straight forward.

The German company SGS produces a powerful double channel ESC with mixing function (TVC B-100; up to 36 volts battery, up to 2 x 100 amps constant current) for brushed motors and followed my hints for enlarging the integrated flyback system for tanks in 1/6 and 1/4 scale (up to 300 kgs and more). The integrated brake system can be controlled in its intensity by a seperate RC-channel if desired, and it also controls the downhill speed of the tank without turning. I'm using the brake channel fixed at the 100 % position, and it's a real pleasure to watch the model crawling down the ramps of my car without any manual intervention by the driver. There is no need to remove the brake when driving or turning. Therefore it is possible to omit the whole brake channel, because the brake intensity can also be chosen at the ESC itself.

[graham pipe]

Hello David and greetings from a rain lashed Normandy. For my part, I'd love to go the high tech route as so well described by previous posters, but I' m Old Skool and prefer the KIS (keep it simple) approach. If you'd care to read Part 4 of my "2023 New Build Jagdpanther" you'll see the blissfully easy system I adopted using "old fashioned" radio gear and which works a treat. Parts 7 and 8 describe the method employed to elevate and traverse the gun.

Probably not for everyone but it works for me!!

As we say here in France, bon courage et bon chance!

[Jerry Carducci]

Hello David and greetings from a rain lashed Normandy. For my part, I'd love to go the high tech route as so well described by previous posters, but I' m Old Skool and prefer the KIS (keep it simple) approach. If you'd care to read Part 4 of my "2023 New Build Jagdpanther" you'll see the blissfully easy system I adopted using "old fashioned" radio gear and which works a treat. Parts 7 and 8 describe the method employed to elevate and traverse the gun.

Probably not for everyone but it works for me!!

As we say here in France, bon courage et bon chance!

At the end of the day that's all that matters Graham; if it works it's good. My weakness is I like gadgets; I have subscribed to the philosophy,
with regards to computers and rc systems, far too much capability than I need at the moment is just about right. All my systems presently have way more capability than I'll ever likely need. I just feel it's better to have it and not need it than the opposite but that's just me.

I began my hobby days with a Futaba FP-T4FN metal cased radio- about as remedial a radio as there was after reed controllers left the scene..
and I did some great stuff with it including my first RC tanks, large gas powered boats and flying 1970s gas helicopters.. I don't know how but I did... Those were the days in which there were still left and right- handed servos and servo 'savers' were the order of the day.

So yes Kiss is good when it works.

Jerry

[mick whittingham]

OK guys I have read the above and decided on the Taranis X9D paired with a X8R receiver.

I have built up the motion and sound packs as per the instructions.

Apart from connections to the receiver.

I'm stuck on how to connect the receiver in order to bind it to the transmitter. You tube tutorials show powering the receiver via the SBUS socket from a 5v power supply to bind the receiver.

But how do I do this with the set up here? Does the receiver take power via the leads from the sound pack?

Or do I power the receiver using the lead from the speed controller module just for the purpose of binding the receiver.

Apologies for the basic question but this is all new to me.

Best regards Mick