Track Tension

[Ray Massa]

Just wondering how tight the tracks should be adjusted. I know Armortek says they don't sag like German tanks, but a general guide for deflection would be helpful.

I had one return roller next to the sprocket seize on me (I was able to get it to release) and I have only driven the tank a few yards for testing. There is a lot of pressure on that roller next to the sprocket and made me think maybe I have the tracks too tight. My tracks deflect enough that if I push on the top they will hit the mud guard if that is any indication of my tension setting. And I have about 1/2" deflection between the idler roller and the first road wheel.

Thanks.

[Liam Mahoney]

Hi Ray
Your request in quite interesting but I don’t believe that it is the problem. Yesterday a local enthusiast Ron paid me a visit so I could help him resolve some of the transmitter issues he was having with his just completed M26. When we got it running we noticed a very disturbing squeaking noise from the left rear return roller, once the offending roller was removed from the tank we could see that the steel shaft had galled the brass bush and was on the verge of completely locking. Ron explained that he had not greased or lubricated any of the bushes, we did not have the assembly manual so I don’t know if it is specified or not but I recommend that he remove all of the rollers and lubricate the bushes, bare minimum of a few drops of oil but a good quality grease is the best option.

I would imagine that you may be in the same position, however if you did lubricate the bushes then you may need to ream the bush or lightly sand the shaft to give it a little more clearance so the lubrication will be effective.

However the best solution would be to fit needle roller bearings part number from local supplier NSO-0080-0120-0080-ST should fit, and after some discussion I will be fitting these to Ron’s tank in the next few weeks.

Just my thoughts
Liam

[Ray Massa]

Liam,

Thank you very much for info! Interesting that it is in the same location as my issue. I did lube all the axles with a dry lub. I will try to lubricate again by squirting some on the end of the bushing after removing the wheel (and hoping it will creep in). To remove all the return rollers and disassemble will be a mighty big problem as all the bolts are buried in the hull with all kinds of stuff surrounding them. Possible, but will not be fun after just getting it all assembled!

I got the one that was frozen, freed up after spraying the end of the bushing with a creeping oil that penetrates in spaces as small as 1 millionth of an inch (supposedly) and left it overnight. Thanks for the bearing info. May have to resort to that in the future. I will be keeping my eye on all the rollers, especially the rear ones as they seem to be getting all the force applied to them from the sprocket.

-Ray

[Keith Morgan]

I've just re-read the construction manual, and I don't believe that there's any mention of lubrication. However, Armortek's advice in the Knowledgebase page at Armortek's lubrication advice page link is to never use wet lubrication, only dry lube such as Rocol Oxylube. I already have several bottles of dry lube for use on my bicycle so I'm planning to go with that.

[Nick Chiocchio]

I ran my tank out back for a few test runs. We've had a lot of rain this summer and the grass is wet, really wet, like stepping on a wet sponge. The humidity is also high, consistently above 80%. The tank got wet especially the suspension. On my last run three of the hubs on the return rollers (EV0316) were missing and the outer wheels came off. I was able to retrieve one hub, the others are somewhere in my back yard.

Upon inspection many of the return rollers were hard to turn, two were almost locked in position. So I disassembled and discovered that rust on the return roller shafts was causing binding. The EH0315 bushing in some cases stuck to the shaft, in other cases the shaft had rust and I think it stuck to the housing EV0305A. So I'm pulling them all out (not fun, I have to disassemble the entire top half of the tank) and need to come up with a solution. I was thinking coating the shaft with dry lube, but maybe grease would be better? Would dry lube prevent the rust? If not any suggestions on what type of lubricant to use? - Thanks

[Ray Massa]

Nick,

That is what I think happened to one of my return rollers right next to the idler wheel on one side. I did not take mine apart - yet. It does not look like it will be easy to get to all the hex head bolts now that all the electronics are stuffed in the hull. Plus, as you said, I will have to disassemble the top half of the tank. I am not ready to do that since I have just completed it and have hardly even driven it outside yet.

I did lube the those shafts with a WD40 Dry Lube product. So far all the rollers are in good rolling shape but I have not gotten anything wet. I really don't plan on it anyway, but damp grass may be enough. Time will tell. I will be running it mostly on a dry area of dirt/sand and bark nuggets.

If I take mine apart, I will be using a heavy grease I think. This may be something that needs occasional maintenance just like any metal to metal rolling part.

-Ray

[Adrian Harris]

I used a white marine grease on the T-34 as that uses steel shafts running through brass bushes for the swing arms.

Seems to have worked well keeping everything moving, and that tank got a lot of running on grass.

Adrian.

[Aaron Taylor]

Will the dry lube prevent galling?

[Steve McEvoy]

After reading the comments here l think l might take my return rollers out and grease them with marine grease before l start installing the electrics. l did lube them with normal grease but on reflection marine grease should be more effective with our climate.(I hope)