Tiger 1 2021 no. 13

[Vince Cutajar]

Coming along nicely Gary.

I wonder why Armortek don't include the heater port in late Tiger 1 kits. I had looked into machining mine. Information about dimensions are here:

https://tiger1.info/EN/Engine-heater-port.html

At the end of the day I decided that doing it was above my pay grade. If I remember correctly I couldn't figure out how to machine the sloping sides of the port. Wish I had CNC. So instead I drew it to get it 3D printed somewhere (I do not have a 3D printer).

At the end of the day, being a lazy so-and-so I just bought one from the States.

Vince

[Donald Suttie]

Vince very kindly gave me the 3D file and i used this service to get it printed

https://craftcloud3d.com

you just pick the material you like,and its there in a few days

i tried to get it printed in aluminum but the hex bolts in the drawing didn't work out,so opted for fine detailed resin,which looks perfect

thanks Vince

P.S. i used the same service to get the correct top piece in the drivers Armour,and this was done in aluminum to match the rest,its so good that its hard to tell the Armortek part from the 3D printed part,a big thank you to Alastair Cooke for the SDL files

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

My thanks to Vince and Donald for help with the heater access port. I will order a 3D print tomorrow.
I have had a day sorting out details on the rear plate including a start to the zimmerit. I also played around with the bow machine gun.
Most of the welds have been added to the rear plate and I have modified the convoy light and rear mudguard opening as I have used the Armortek mudguards which were catching on the light. I took the glass tube out of the light and shortened it slightly as well as the base plate, then opened the left hand cut out so it cleared the light. The fixing and lights wire holes were drilled through the plate and I am using 1.6mm nuts and bolts to attach it.
I was having trouble with the machine gun wandering when the servo operated, the MG ball is very loose in the housing and would spin every which way. I made a brass guide rail, removed the countersunk screws and replaced them with button heads which hold the rail in place. I made a new wire operating rod with a smaller diameter hole and a z bend to go into the servo arm. The sheath covering the LED wires also needed to act as a guide so I slipped a short length of aluminium tube over it and pressed it into an oval so it slides in the guide. The MG now moves smoothly side to side and stays correctly orientated.

Regards
Gary

Antenna tube with field mod.

Rear plate detailing.

MG guide rail made of brass.

MG moves smoothly using the guide rail

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

I have now completed the top coat of paint on the hull, the heater access port has been ordered and is in production in France (Thanks for the STL file Vince ). The tracks have had their third layer of paint (German Grey) and just need dust and dirt effects adding.
I have started installing the motors and also have been playing with the position of the smoker which will have 15mm copper fittings from the unit to the exhaust outlets. I am having an issue with the MG servo, everything is moving freely with no binding and I am using switch SA on my Taranis X9D Plus transmitter giving left, centre and right movement of the MG. It's a three position switch and all was working well yesterday but now the servo seems to be drawing current when in the neutral position with the switch in its centre position. This then causes the servo to move erratically but only when going left of the neutral position. I ran out of time to finish isolating the problem and it may be a transmitter setting problem to do with the switch. I have set the output travel to 85% ( it easily does 95%) and the servo arm and linkages are not fouling anywhere. Tomorrow I will remove the servo and check it on the bench with a direct connection to the receiver as I am having to use servo lead extensions at the moment.
I will give the turret its top coat of paint tomorrow but before I do I have a question.
Did the recessed area at the bottom of the turret front below the mantle have zimmerit applied at either end ?

Regards
Gary

Just need to dirty the up with dust and debris

Front and side

Rear

I like this aspect, looks mean.

[Gary Richardson]

Good evening all

Today I completed the main turret work, the turret just needs some camouflage, signage and dirtying up. I modified the recoil mechanism to ensure it stays central and stops the barrel twisting, I used a longer bolt cut down so most of it was unthreaded and inserted a brass tube through the connector bar which was an interference fit. The brass sleeve rotates freely around the bolt but always stays central to the barrel, I used aluminium blocks and rubber grommets (fully tightened down) to ensure the servo arm was also in line .
The hull is nearly complete, just waiting for the heater access port to arrive, in the meantime I have started installing the electronics.
I am aiming to have the power module and sound module directly below the engine access hatch so I put the decks and turret on to check the clearance and see if the hatch could be opened. Well, it is very tight, there is only one position where it can be opened and that is with the turret turned so the escape hatch and track hanger bracket line up with the hatch and there is about 10mm of leeway. It also means the track link will have to have a quick release fitting as with it in place the hatch cannot be opened. Elsewhere in several places there is just a few millimetres clearance below the turret as it turns, I am so glad I reduced the height of the air intake cover I made.
I have started making the aluminium parts that will hold the batteries in place and have altered the position of the smoker so it is across the rear of the tray and needs very few copper components to connect to the exhaust outlets, I will sort out photos tomorrow.
In the end I decided to put zimmerit on the turret recess where the mantle over hangs, it seemed logical as it would be a prime site to stick a mine.

Regards
Gary

Mod to keep the recoil mechanism centred

Turret almost finished

[Charles A Stewart]

Hi
Love the zimmermit.
I have a feeling that I may have to have a go at this on the forthcoming Panther. so if its ok can I use your thread as a reference, but we are some time away.

Cheers Charles

[Gary Richardson]

Hi
Love the zimmermit.
I have a feeling that I may have to have a go at this on the forthcoming Panther. so if its ok can I use your thread as a reference, but we are some time away.

Cheers Charles

Hi Charles
Thanks, I am pleased with how the zimmerit came out, it was worth experimenting with different mixes of tile adhesive to get the result I wanted. I did try out the tools I made out of brass and they worked well, the only thing I would change is the handles so they have a bit more grip. Feel free to use anything in my build, we are all here to help each other.

Regards
Gary

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

Just a quick update while I get my lunch.
I have used some angled aluminium to make battery holders and a means of securing the batteries. One slight problem was the Yuasa batteries are slightly wider at the top than the bottom so do not lay flat in the main tray covering the torsion rods. It is only a couple of mm's so I bent the sides of the tray outwards where the battery tops lay and now they are flat.
Next job is to make brackets and a shelf for the sound and power module to sit on under the engine hatch.

Regards
Gary

90 degree ally to stop the batteries moving.

Batteries secured using 4mm threaded rod and wing nuts

[Adrian Harris]

Looks like that gap between the angles in the middle is just right for a thin sheet of Perspex to isolate the battery terminals

Adrian.

[Gary Richardson]

Looks like that gap between the angles in the middle is just right for a thin sheet of Perspex to isolate the battery terminals

Adrian.

Hi Adrian
You read my mind, the gap was deliberate and I intend to have 2 sections of L shaped plastic to separate the batteries and protect the terminals against anything falling on them. There is enough room to undo the terminals with the batteries in place should the need arise.

Regards
Gary

[Gary Richardson]

Hi All

I am still experimenting with the speaker, power module and sound module positions and fixings. I have positioned two brackets on either side of the hull after drilling and tapping the M3 holes for the bolts. The two U channel beams bolt to the speakers and the brackets. I used M4 bolts and wing nuts into the speaker casings so the whole assembly can be removed very easily. I intend to put an aluminium plate across the beams which will allow the Power module and sound module to be positioned under the engine hatch.

Regards
Gary

Bars for fixing speakers, sound and power module.

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

I have spent a couple of days experimenting with the module layouts to get an idea of the wiring runs, started out looking like spaghetti as in the photo but today I have streamlined the layout with the motor module A on the tray near the motors and the power and sound module on the bars between the speakers. The main power cable to module A was extended using 60A silicone cable and matching xt60 connectors to reach the power module. The receiver and module B will be above the right track.
I also had my first attempt at dirtying up the exhausts as these need to be fixed in position so I can connect the smoker using 15mm copper parts.
I am still waiting for the heater access port to arrive which is holding up finishing the rear hull plate.

Regards
Gary

needs tidying up and streamlining

First attempt at adding paint detail

[Vince Cutajar]

Gary
Just out of curiosity. Do the red box electronics have an on/off switch or does one need to add one?

Vince

[Gary Richardson]

Gary
Just out of curiosity. Do the red box electronics have an on/off switch or does one need to add one?

Vince

Hi Vince

There is a single on/off switch provided that completely isolates the power module from the battery so there is no current drain, it looks like it operates a relay switch. There are not individual switches to the modules. The modules are all quite compact and with the batteries standing up would probably fit on the aluminium tray but I wanted access to the sound and power module hence putting them under the engine hatch.

Regards
Gary

Power module

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

Module positions photos added.
I made a couple of small brackets to hold some of the smoker components in place with a cable tie.
Regards
Gary

modules held in place with velcro

Wiring lengths to be assessed and tidied up