Chieftain No 36
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Chieftain No 36
For many weeks I’ve been ‘umming’ and ‘ahing’ about reshaping the front casting. More specifically where it runs under the turret ring and joins the rear side plates. Today I finally decided to give it a go.
After 4 hours with a grinder and various files the basic shape has appeared. There’s quite a bit more to do before it’s right. The curve on the underside needs to be more exaggerated but also the join with the rear side plates needs attention. The join should be further back, which may be tricky. First, I will refit the track guard and try to imagine what the modified locker will look like and then make a decision.
Its not right yet, but it’s a start.
I will update this post as I progress.
If anyone else has had a go at this modification I’m sure people would love to see what you have done.
After 4 hours with a grinder and various files the basic shape has appeared. There’s quite a bit more to do before it’s right. The curve on the underside needs to be more exaggerated but also the join with the rear side plates needs attention. The join should be further back, which may be tricky. First, I will refit the track guard and try to imagine what the modified locker will look like and then make a decision.
Its not right yet, but it’s a start.
I will update this post as I progress.
If anyone else has had a go at this modification I’m sure people would love to see what you have done.
- Charles A Stewart
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Re: Chieftain No 36
Total respect
Cheers charles
Cheers charles
Chieftain No.34, functional. PKW IV (2002), operational. Panther G No.18 (2022), started, well some of it is. Series 1 4x4 No.28 and a Bailey Bridge.
- John Clarke
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Re: Chieftain No 36
Greg, wonderful work!
Until you own the model, one cannot describe the feelings felt faced when something so obvious just doesn't gel. I must admit so many times I've looked at the triangle bin at the front of the tank and said to myself how can I fix that? (or why should I have to fix that?)
The triangle bin sets up the position for other items along the side of the tank both sides that are now way out of position because of it. I've put lots of work into the mudguards and the more you put in the more obvious the problem becomes.
Like yourself, I thought "lets hit the model with grinder" (again). Trying not to undo all the work done on the mud guard by slipping a piece steel shield plate between upper armor casting and mudguard while grinding. This would be hard, time consuming and difficult to do and will probably end up damaging more than I protect.
So what to do.
It's not something that can be hidden behind a skirt or camouflaged. Or could it?
So the solution I came up with (but have put on hold while I build up the mojo lettering fuel caps), was to build a lengthened false back to the originally supplied bin, scalloped out to pass over the unwanted upper armor casting you've just lopped off. The front of the bin needs to be lengthened too and a new lid would have to be formed. If done well, the only sign of change would be opening the bin to discover the false back and the scrutiny of the false plate as it passes over the upper armor casting.
Jury's out
Until you own the model, one cannot describe the feelings felt faced when something so obvious just doesn't gel. I must admit so many times I've looked at the triangle bin at the front of the tank and said to myself how can I fix that? (or why should I have to fix that?)
The triangle bin sets up the position for other items along the side of the tank both sides that are now way out of position because of it. I've put lots of work into the mudguards and the more you put in the more obvious the problem becomes.
Like yourself, I thought "lets hit the model with grinder" (again). Trying not to undo all the work done on the mud guard by slipping a piece steel shield plate between upper armor casting and mudguard while grinding. This would be hard, time consuming and difficult to do and will probably end up damaging more than I protect.
So what to do.
It's not something that can be hidden behind a skirt or camouflaged. Or could it?
So the solution I came up with (but have put on hold while I build up the mojo lettering fuel caps), was to build a lengthened false back to the originally supplied bin, scalloped out to pass over the unwanted upper armor casting you've just lopped off. The front of the bin needs to be lengthened too and a new lid would have to be formed. If done well, the only sign of change would be opening the bin to discover the false back and the scrutiny of the false plate as it passes over the upper armor casting.
Jury's out
Oh Man, I only ride em I don't know what makes them work,
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- John Clarke
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Re: Chieftain No 36
Me too
Oh Man, I only ride em I don't know what makes them work,
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- John Clarke
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Re: Chieftain No 36
Hi Greg,
Made a mock up with card board to show you what I had in mind, I should add Richard Goodwin has the same thought due to the need to align his Berlin camo patterns, I wasn't sure if it was necessary due to the Batus Camo I'm imagining for my model.
As soon as the the mudguards go on, it will annoy some as it did myself.
The triangle bin on the original model was way harder to make than if it had been made scale, but then of course the upper armor casting would have needed altering.
We are where we are.
As I said before if done well the extended scalloped triangle bin could look pretty good unless you open it, the upper armor casting overhang disappears to a certain degree within the bin. The bin extension could be made from plastic card, steel plate or aluminum.
Your way is certainly better though.
Made a mock up with card board to show you what I had in mind, I should add Richard Goodwin has the same thought due to the need to align his Berlin camo patterns, I wasn't sure if it was necessary due to the Batus Camo I'm imagining for my model.
As soon as the the mudguards go on, it will annoy some as it did myself.
The triangle bin on the original model was way harder to make than if it had been made scale, but then of course the upper armor casting would have needed altering.
We are where we are.
As I said before if done well the extended scalloped triangle bin could look pretty good unless you open it, the upper armor casting overhang disappears to a certain degree within the bin. The bin extension could be made from plastic card, steel plate or aluminum.
Your way is certainly better though.
Oh Man, I only ride em I don't know what makes them work,
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- John Clarke
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Re: Chieftain No 36
It's one solution, Yours was another, very brave I might add.
I wasn't happy to clip 200 track horns either, but hay ho.
( Don't look too hard at the turret shape at the front end )( Sorry Richard )
Here's a de-bagged Chieftain
I wasn't happy to clip 200 track horns either, but hay ho.
( Don't look too hard at the turret shape at the front end )( Sorry Richard )
Here's a de-bagged Chieftain
Oh Man, I only ride em I don't know what makes them work,
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Re: Chieftain No 36
This job has taken a lot longer than I imagined it would. Apart from the shear quantity of material that has to be removed the next hardest part is trying to get both sides symmetrical. It would have been a lot easier if the casting hadn’t been fixed to the hull but I got there in the end. Now all I have to do is remake the storage bins.
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Re: Chieftain No 36
Hi Greg,
That new profile is a big improvement, well worth the effort. Almost a shame it'll be mostly hidden, but at least the triangular bins will be a better shape.
David
That new profile is a big improvement, well worth the effort. Almost a shame it'll be mostly hidden, but at least the triangular bins will be a better shape.
David
- John Clarke
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Re: Chieftain No 36
Great job, loverly sculpture on the upper armor casting .
Looks like what it should look like. Very tempting
If I was going to run without bins I think I'd go for it
But I think I'll stick to my original plan
The flat hinge on the top of the bin with a new lid should hide most of the internal bin changes so hopefully no real problems there.
Looking forward to seeing the finished bin. I'll be having a go on my variant in couple of weeks.
Looks like what it should look like. Very tempting
If I was going to run without bins I think I'd go for it
But I think I'll stick to my original plan
The flat hinge on the top of the bin with a new lid should hide most of the internal bin changes so hopefully no real problems there.
Looking forward to seeing the finished bin. I'll be having a go on my variant in couple of weeks.
Oh Man, I only ride em I don't know what makes them work,
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Re: Chieftain No 36
Speaking from experience having crewed many REME variants of different british army vehicles during 22 years service, stowage space on any was always at a premium.John Clarke wrote: ↑Wed Oct 06, 2021 4:02 pmIf I was going to run without bins I think I'd go for it
Bins were essential to keep the tanks operational. Stowage of track maintenance tools, main armanent maintenance tools, rations, personal kit etc. Extra bins were a god-send and us REME ( the fitter section with assistance from the welder ) would find a solution to fit one.
A Chiefy without bins had been stripped of them because she was a non-runner, likely to become a hard-target on a range somewhere.
The Chiefy long-bin, as it was affectionately known, lived on long after Chieftain was withdrawn from service. The Tiffy-wagon, 24A a FV432 would regularly be fitted with 3, one either side and one along the rear. Arrv´s & CRarrv´s had them mounted alongside the jib. We fitted them to the REME FV434, CVR(T) variants, Warrior variants.
IIRC, I speculatively put in a demand for one in 2005 as ones of ours had become extremely tatty, I was supporting Challenger 2 at the time. Brand new replacement was delivered within a week.
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Re: Chieftain No 36
Stephen White wrote: ↑Thu Oct 07, 2021 7:57 amBin there, done that but if you don’t want more storage, you can bin the idea.
- John Clarke
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Re: Chieftain No 36
For the nostalgic. Buy your own on ebay
and a little bit more detail. (underneath )
and a little bit more detail. (underneath )
Oh Man, I only ride em I don't know what makes them work,
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