Martin's StuG 3

[Martin Hofmann]

Hi all,
i decided to build one of the most beautiful tanks of the 2nd world war.
Here are the first photos.

[florian rudolf]

Hi Martin,
you're based in Germany?!

Verry nice start. Looking forward to see more soon.

[Roy Beukeveld]

Very nice to see another StuG build Good luck on your project, it already looks good!

[Michael Röder]

Hello Martin!
Yes, the StuG3 is a very nice vehicle.
Since I know your other tanks from the forum and from tank-meeting at Hausen, I'm already looking forward to your StuG.
regards Michael

[Steen Vøler]

Hope that Hausen in 2021 can be realized I will for sure attend if possible at all

[Martin Hofmann]

Hi Florian,
yes i am living in Hamburg.
Hi Roy, Michael and Steen,
thank you for the kind words. I hope that Hausen will be realized in 2021.
Here are some photos from the sprocket with casting numbers and on the later photos with the first layer of Mr.Surfacer including sand. The next 2 layers are coming without sand to smooth the first one.
The outer road wheel got 2 threads M5 on opposite side beneath the pin 4x22 and the inner wheel has a bigger hole and a countersink for a countersunk screw M5x30.

[Roy Beukeveld]

... The outer road wheel got 2 threads M5 on opposite side beneath the pin 4x22 and the inner wheel has a bigger hole and a countersink for a countersunk screw M5x30...

Hi Martin,

What is the reason you are adding the M5x30? The two wheels are axially locked up on the shaft and the 4x22's prevent them from turning separately?

[Martin Hofmann]

Hi Roy,
sorry for not answered immediately, but i am very busy at the moment.
The reasons for adding the M5x30 are following:
First: Every pin has tolerances - normally: plus. Also every hole has tolerances - normally also: plus.
But it could be, that the plus in the hole is bigger than the plus at the pin. So you could get some clearance between both parts.
Therefor the half of the roadwheels want to tilt a little. But that is a movement that the bearings don't like. That is the first reason for screwing the halfs together.
Second: when forces are introduced through the horns of the track, the track wants to drive the two halfes of the wheels apart. When the two halfes are screwed together, both wheels transfer the forces to the two bearings. So you can be sure that everytime both wheels are get the same load.
I hope you understand what i mean and why I screwed the road wheels together.

[Roy Beukeveld]

Hi Martin,

No problem, there is no rush when it comes to our hobbies
Thank you for explaining the M5's, it does make sense.
Although the pins have a tight fit in the holes I tried so far, I might consider it applying it on my wheels as well.

[Martin Hofmann]

Something done on the sprockets, casting surface in several layers with Mr.Surfacer, new flat area for the screws

[Steen Vøler]

Looks really nice

[florian rudolf]

Awesome build.
What kind of bubbles / sand do you use in your primer?
are the square nuts from knupfer?

Cheers
Florian

[Martin Hofmann]

Hi Steen,
Hi Florian,
thank you for the nice words.
Florian: i use sand from a sand blaster with a size of approx. 90 micrometer in the first layer.
The second and third layer has no sand in it to smooth the sand and give the surface a look of casting.
And yes: the sqare nuts are from Knupfer - M3 as used like a washer.

[yves mouton]

Hello Martin,

Nice job on the stug sprockets
Regards Yves

[florian rudolf]

Hi Martin,

thanks for vor tipps.
looking to get this sand