Chieftain No 26 By Andy Musgrove

[andymusgrove]

Ok so i them also made up the round plates but am stuck for a bolt size - any ideas guys ? the disks are about 21mm Dia

Also can be seen replacement Tow brackets, not 100% sure about the shape of these and might remake them yet, ill try a bollard on and see ow they look. feedback is very welcome

First thought are also forming for the exhaust box... as it can be seen in bits - still mulling it over on which way to go with it.

[andymusgrove]

A little spare time yielded some time on the lathe with the Hubs and this is how they turned out - half original half Nearly finished - still got to drill the 2 extractor holes in each one.

I used a 3mm Button head hex Bolt for the filler level Bolt in the center. skimmed off whilst still on the lathe

[andymusgrove]

And here they are done - nice little job which i really enjoyed doing.

[andymusgrove]

Now Decision time do i go for the M1.4 or the M 1.6 Bolt for the hubs...

M1.4 on the Left M1.6 on the Right

[Adrian Harris]

Judging by the pictures in Richard's thread, I would have said 1.6mm. However, he used 1.4mm but used nuts instead of hex heads.

Adrian.

[andymusgrove]

Thanks Adrian. I am leaning towards 1.6. As I think the 1.4 looks a little small.

[John Clarke]

Great to see you "Going for it" on the Chieftain detailing Andy. It's a tricky build in basic form. Richard and I both thought the M1.6 converted nuts and threads seemed the closest match to the original.
The reason I went for the fake M1.6 conversion bolts was purely cost, also after several coats of paint, definition on the hex heads will diminish on the smaller hex head.
By the time this model is completed it will have cost and arm and a leg in fasteners alone. The cheap converts saved a few bob, allowing monies to be spent on stainless retainers holding the rest of the model together. Using stainless Nuts, Bolts, Set screws and washers allows me to leave the internals au naturel.

Don't forget the jacking threads in the belly plate ME inspection hatch, My hatch has a mirror image, so when you look at it with a mirror it's actually the right way round

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[John Clarke]

I found that M2 for the round hatches looked a little large but M1.6 a little too small, so went with the M2. I only needed one countersunk M3 screw to mount inside the cover plate. Saved drilling lots of holes in the hull. Hope this helps, As for the the Exhaust box Richard G and Steve N did a cracking job on it. Loads of work but worth it.

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[andymusgrove]

Hi John

Thanks so much for the detailed reply and advice. I will use the M1.6. I made up one hub and they do look better than the M1.4. I’ll post up some more pics of it tomorrow

Also M2 certainly looks ok on your round plates. What dia are your S? Mine are about 21mm

I really wish I had more time to be in the workshop but a full time job seems to be getting in the way .

Thanks for you feedback and keep the good work on yours which I have been following with great interest.

Kindest regards

Andy

[John Clarke]

Well you've certainly got some treats ahead. I'm taking a chill pill at the moment and will hopefully spend sometime on a Armortek Comet. Getting the fantastic model up and running again after a bit of storage. "A change is as good as a rest" they say.

Very nice workshop you have there, lovely finish on those parts you've made, we'll be expecting great things Mr Potter Musgrove

I measured the original inspection hatch including weld at around 220mm. I did make a smaller pair to suit the kit as they looked big at scale but went for near scale in the end, I believe the whole inspection hatch including weld came out around 35mm and the disk in the middle 26mm. I wouldn't worry about scale, there's not much in scale. if you do start make things to scale, your making a right rod for yourself.

BEWARE of the Takom "trap" in positioning the disk bolts. That what I like about accurate plastic model kits.
"Absolutely Nothing"

I've added a picture of the bits I knocked out to compare sizes.

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[andymusgrove]

John thanks so much for your further input it's all very much appreciated.

Good luck with the Comet - a lovely tank for sure.

The Workshop you might have seen did change - i started out in the garage and then built a new workshop in the garden - the garage still houses my lathe and mill but the new workshop is just for tanks

Interesting you mention the positioning for the hatches and not to use the Takom - well i have been using my old Tamiya kit so i guess the same applies....
now im not sure where to site the hatches - it can wait until August when a Tiger day visit is on the cards I'll take my tape measure Great Pic of the roiund hatch thaks. I'm going to make new ones now

Jacking plates i have made but still need a bit of fettling ...

then i am going to take off the suspension housings and grind down the hull sides.

Wait till you see what i have done to the front armour casting... Gulp

Cheers
Mr Potter
Andy

[John Clarke]

I'm sure it will be magical, I added two pieces make a wizard looking front end, try topping that. (If only there was a spell)
"Buildcompletious"
And of course, it's all in the eye of the beholder, the small lip, the faint slight smile and there's certainly differences on the castings on the Mk's too.

Good luck from Bumbledorf

Not to confuze, I meant bolt position on the round inspection hatches, their 45' out on the plaggy model, not the overall position, that's your best guess

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[Richard Goodwin]

Judging by the pictures in Richard's thread, I would have said 1.6mm. However, he used 1.4mm but used nuts instead of hex heads.

Adrian.

A little late replying to this; I found that the costs associated with hex heads was extortionate to say the least and it was far cheaper to do a little work and use the M1.4s with their nuts acting as the bolt heads. Its surprising just how much all this extra detailing actually costs!

[Adrian Harris]

Boaty McBoatface

Adrian.

[andymusgrove]

Judging by the pictures in Richard's thread, I would have said 1.6mm. However, he used 1.4mm but used nuts instead of hex heads.

Adrian.

A little late replying to this; I found that the costs associated with hex heads was extortionate to say the least and it was far cheaper to do a little work and use the M1.4s with their nuts acting as the bolt heads. Its surprising just how much all this extra detailing actually costs!

You are so right about the amount of extra fixings but i have found some M1.6 x 3m for £2.12 for 20 plus P&P which is still not cheap but thats still another £20.