Wire Wheels

[Armortek]

Below are a few photographs of the SINGLE WHEEL to help with the layout of the spokes on the wire wheels.
There should be referenced alongside the Wire Wheel manual that has been provided in the kits.

Note that in the images below, the first steps were started by going ANTICLOCKWISE whilst the manual starts with the first steps going clockwise - you can do either.

STARTING WITH THE INSIDE OF THE WHEEL

Image above shows the approx angle from the centre line for the first set of spokes (STEP 3 from the manual)

Image above shows the number of holes along from the centre line that you should go.
Also note that the FERRULES (EP0104 should be aligned with the spokes)

Images above shows the spoke in green being fitted in the anticlockwise direction. Note that the angle of 50 degrees is a approximate as it is difficult to measure the vertex of the angle (STEP 8 from the manual)

Image above shows the positioning of the pin heads once all the spokes are in and fixed.


NOW MOVE TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE WHEEL

Image above shows the other side of the wheel (STEP 11 from the manual)

Image above shows the number of holes to skip from the centre line.

Image above shows the pinheads.

Image above shows the spokes being places in the anticlockwise direction. Again, note that the 40 degree angle measurement is an approximation. (STEP 14 from the manual)

Image above again shows the aligned ferrules and position of the spokes.

[Robert Reid]

If there are any Armortek aficionados who want to set up a nice little side-business... wheel-lacing-for-hire may be a good avenue!

I've done enough of the 'real thing's' to know that I can do it, but am not good at it. There are guys who can do wheel lacing like the Tasmanian Devil... in speed and accuracy.

I'm looking forward to attempting mine... but dreading it as well.

Thanks, Kian, for posting this tutorial. Hopefully some others will also keep posting their tips and advice to make these wheels come together easily. And, well, if it were *that* easy... we'd be building Airfix, wouldn't we?

Cheers,

RPR

[Tim Semas]

Is there a tracked version? Those spokes just tired me out reading about them.

[Robert Reid]

Is there a tracked version? Those spokes just tired me out reading about them.

Dave Dibb... pick up the white courtesy phone. Dave Dibb... Call for you on the White Courtesy Phone!

Track conversion kits from Armorpax?

Does seem like a track conversion would be a lot of fun! I wonder what 'off the shelf' track vehicle Lenin's motor pool used for the tracks, bogeys, suspension, etc.

Cheers,

RPR

[laurent ROSSET]

building the wire wheel is a school of patience but so far with Kian's excellent explanations (build instructions and forum) I have done half of a single wheel in 2 hours!

[michael haerle]

Hello Kian,

I received my RR Armored Car today. In the next few days I will take a close look at the components. Then: I will now follow all your advice and start building. I hope I get the model clean together. I think the spoked wheels are a real job. In many pictures I see, the spokes in the wheels have real "waves". I do not like it. Is not it possible to mount everything so that the spokes are all straight? What do I have to consider for this?

Greetings Michael

[Pete Nash]

Hi Michael

I don't know how you are getting on with your wheels or if Kian replied to your query.

The 'waves' you refer to are a hazard caused by handling, packing and fitting.
To get them straight to start with roll the wries under a ruler on a flat worktop, that should straighten them However, threading them through the hub and into the rims will cause bends in the wires.
The only way I could get them straight is to fit the ferrule, set the angle then grip the end of the spoke in something firm, like small molegrips or a pair of pliers, and PULL the spoke straight, superglue the ferrule, wait for it to set and let go.

But then again you could cheat-as I think I will be doing (and not to hide bent spokes). That is to fabricate covers so that they appear to be the later type of 'solid' wheel.

Hope you are enjoying the build

Pete

[Chris Hall]

But then again you could cheat-as I think I will be doing (and not to hide bent spokes). That is to fabricate covers so that they appear to be the later type of 'solid' wheel.

Pete

Pete -

I haven't got the Rolls Royce, so I can't speak for the technicalities. But, from an historical perspective, just putting on wheel covers would not turn a 1914 Admiralty Pattern into a 1920 Pattern (like the one at Bovington). There are a number of differences, most notably the vision ports below the turret. There's also a bit of a 'grey area' about 1920 bodies on 1914 chassis. But, if you hanker after historical accuracy (like I do !), there are seldom 'quick fixes'.

But, personally, I think the spoked wheels look great, and are worth the effort.

All the best,

Chris

[Steven Ford]

Just starting to address this part of the build and I note that the wires should be held under tension whilst the glue that joins them to the ferrule sets.

I offer the suggestion that this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Surgical-Hae ... 3d2483eb2b

- or something like it would do the job nicely. (I have no connection with the firm.)

An additional benefit of successfully maintaining tension whilst the glue sets is that the wires would be held straighter as well.

These curved ones allow a clearer field of view for gluing but straight ones are available too.

[Walter Mackinnon]

I have been following these posts as I have still to start mine ,I ordered 2 of the forecepts on Tue. and they arrived on Wed. morning, my thinking is to pull and glue one while working on another. Very easy to use with 3 levels of grip.
Walter.

[michael haerle]

Hello forum, hello Kian,

I'm just starting the construction of the RR Armored Car. I start with the wheels. There's a mystery to me and I'd better ask befor something goes wrong.

I hope I'm not too stupid to measure properly. In the construction manual for the wheels, point 3. your picture with the red mark and the indication of the angle. I come in my construction and the measurements in this construction step to an angle of 40 degrees. If I measure the picture of you in the construction manual, I come there also to 40 degrees. Am I doing something wrong? Is the information in the construction manual wrong?

I am looking forward to help.

Thanks and Regards
Michael

[Dave Nadin]

Hi Michael, the fun has begun. A lot of people have had difficulty with building the wire wheels. I have now done my wheel sets, The method I used is shown in a replay post. Please look at Pete's Armoured car forum posts. My method is there reply from Dave Nadin dated 5 May 18. sorry but not able to post any pictures. but the written word is direct
Have fun if still in doubt give me a shout
cheers Dave

[Robert Reid]

My friend Ernie, here in the US is a very, very accomplished model builder.

He did his first wheel in about 9 hours. His second in about 8. And the rest in about 6.5.

Figure a MINIMUM of 6 - 7 hours per wheel.

I AM GOING TO EDIT THIS.... SEE MY THREAD BELOW ON THE BUILD. MY FIRST 5 WHEELS, INCLUDING SETUP AND FINDING THE PARTS, TOOK 11 HOURS. NOWHERE NEAR THE WORRISOME TIMES SOME HAVE BEEN CONCERNED ABOUT.

I am kind of dreading this. I have a chassis and an armoured car kit to do. That is 12 wheels... including spares. That's about 80 hours... at best... doing wheels.

IT TURNED OUT TO BE EASY AS CAN BE AND VERY FUN! DON'T FEAR THE WHEELS! THEY ARE A BLAST!

If I wanted an easy hobby, I'd be building Airfix or Revell. Or restoring the real thing. Oh, yeah. I do that.

The amazing sense of accomplishment and relaxation of building Armortek... makes all the challenge the whole reason I took them up!

Cheers,

RPR

[michael haerle]

Hello forum,

my first wire wheel is finished. A few pictures.

After a period of trials, I did not want to glue the spokes but solder them hard. This holds better and the spokes can be installed so tight. The whole thing is very stable and firm. After some attempts, all spokes are now straight and tight. Now I am satisfied with the result.

My method has a drawback if a spoke does not fit properly on the first try, there is no way to correct it. If it does not fit, the spoke must be removed and a new one in. This has meant that I need more spokes than intended. That's OK, the result counts.

Best regards
Michael

[Robert Reid]

Very nicely done!

What did you use for solder/flux? Did you tin the end of the spoke first? Iron or flame?

I had actually been wondering if soldering would work and from the looks of your wheel, it works great! Can you post some more detail on the way you went about it!

Outstanding job.

Cheers,

RPR