Pete's Armoured Car Build

[Pete Nash]

My Chassis is No.49

Page 3, Basic Chassis. M5 X 25 CSK Screws to fasten front Stretcher A EP0108 are too long, Hole not deep enough, use M5 X 20 CSK Instead.
rear Stretcher A looks as if it should be fastened with cap crews as a blind hole is drilled there, I'm using M5 X 16 cap Screws.

Last weekend I was at the Norfolk Tank Museum with my Mk.IV tank so decided to take the wheels along to make up. I found that once the first row of spokes were fitted I'm going to have to drill clearances to fit the second row of spokes. The round base of the spokes interfere with the second row holes.

As others say, such is modelling

[Armortek]

Pete,
The wheel hubs and rims do not need to have any additional holes drilled, or holes cleared. If you find you need to, then the spokes have not been put in correctly or have not been pulled tight.

We strongly recommend that people do not drill any more into the hubs or rims.

With regards to the two STRETCHER A parts (EP0108) - it is possible that M5x25 CSK are a bit long. Shortening this to M5x20 CSK will be fine and not cause any issues.

For the rear STRETCHER A part, the part is fixed with EP0129 as shown on DRAWING 4 - not a cap head.

Kian

[Pete Nash]

Thanks Kiran for clarifying that. I will have to take my Hub apart and do it again.

Missed the EP0129 part, the pt. No. is on page 3 but its not shown until Page 4.

[Pete Nash]

OK, I made amistake with the wheel, Here are a couple of Images of the single wheel I have started.
Can anyone spot my error please? I thought I had done it right, put a spoke in and move it to the third hole along in the outer rim.[img

][/img]

[Robert Reid]

Spokes look bent... and like too many of them in the same direction.

I can't say for sure as my kit has not arrived... but I've played enough with the 'real' 33 x 5 Dunlop rims that this looks like you have way too many spokes in one direction and that there should be no bends in them.

Wheel lacing is a bit of an art. In real size... and especially in miniature. Pochers were tough. Even the ScaleLink kits are difficult to get right. But I am willing to be the Armortek instructions are good. Just count to 10... and it will come together.

Cheers,

RPR

[Pete Nash]

Thanks Robert.

Kiran recommends that you finish off the spokes in one direction before starting the other.

Must admit there are 'bends; in the spokes, that is a result of placing one in the hole of the inner rim and moving it into a hole in the outer rim. Then a ferrrule is place over the end, pull the spoke tight and super glue the ferrule and spoke together.
Couldn't quite get the pull to straighten it while the super glue set.
I've got some super glue debonder on the way, next time I assemble it I'll try pre bending the spoke so that the head sits flush with the inside of the hub.

[Pete Nash]

I had a problem fitting EP0136 Tie Rod A between the two EP0135 posts. It seemed too long, so i asked Kian and sent images. Below is his reply


Hi Pete,



EP0136 should have two bends in it so that it more or less follows the chassis rail. The rod should be straight coming out of EP0135 and going into EP0135, but there should then be two kinks.

Looks like we missed this from the instructions.



Kind regards,

Kian

[Pete Nash]

I have come across two more problems with my build and contacted Kiran

First was with the Torque tubes EP0202 and EP0210. One has 12 holes the other has 16 so they couldn't take the 1.6mm Rivets as shown on page 10.
The Second was that the holes in the gearbox cover EP0380 and in the gearbox EP0376 do not line up all the way around.

Kiran's reply is below,

What we have done on our models is put the rivets in EP0210 and then cut them down before screwing EP0210 and EP0202 together.

The holes are decorative and the rivets do not pass through both parts.



With regards to your other mail on the Gear Cover – unfortunately because of the design of the cover the brass had to be injected into the moulds at quite a high pressure. This cause the moulds to expand slightly – every piece was slightly different. Rather than drilling the gear box, if the mis-alignment is only small then we suggest slightly slotting the cover plate. The slots should be hidden by the dummy studs, so should not then be an issue.

[Pete Nash]

Page 31, Exhaust Assembly.
EP0603 is a close fit over EP0551 Exhaust Pipe so will not go past the bends in the pipe.

My solution, right or wrong to save lots of filing and forcing, was to use a thin blade and cut EP0603 in half along the vertical centre line, fit it over the exhaust pipe and rely on the M3 X 25 Hex Screw to hold it closed, and maybe in the longer term a bit of super glue on the bottom cuts to make sure.

[Dave Nadin]

Single wheel spoke lacing. Had the same problem. The problem is with the first start point you chose. Try this method it worked for me. 1. Mark a line through the centre of the wheel assembly jig base. 2. Hub EP0102, mount to the jig with any Inside 'A' hole, lined up with the centre line. Now mount the rim to the jig, with any 'A' hole, Lined up on the centre jig line. Make sure you have the jig loaded as per the build instructions. 3. Spoke wire, before fitting, bend the flattened end some 25deg 2/3mm from this end, do this to all wires before fitting, it will held when tensioning the wire & fitting the spoke ferrules. 4. Now fit the first wire through the hub in line with jig centre line, ( it will be slightly of centre). Now start with rim hole next to the centre line, and count 4 holes ( in which ever direction you choose). Insert the wire into the 4th hole. Carry on lacing as per the instructions.. Repeat steps as before when you change direction.
All the reaming instruction steps are spot on.

Enjoy the build. Dave N

[Pete Nash]

MY mistake! I built the two hinges of the turret hatch like butt hinges, i.e. both halves level.
But when I fitted the hatch to the turret top it wouldn't close properly.
I debated whether to file part of one half of the hinge down, or raise the other half up, I even contemplated e-mailing Kian for advice.
The it Hit me. I'd assembled the hinge wrong. I should have assembled one half upside down. It worked.
See my image. Please note that the hinge half on the Turret Hatch is stepped up above the other half attached to the turret.
Pete

[Robert Reid]

Thanks for posting, Pete!

This stuff is going to be gold when time comes for me to build mine!

Cheers,

RPR

[Pete Nash]

It looks like the gremlins has jumped onto page 41.
We all know that It is easier for a camel to pass through the eye of a needle than it is for a rich man to enter the kingdom of heaven, but no matter how hard we try M2.5 nuts will not fit onto M3 screws, nor will M3 screws go through 2.5 dia holes.

I'm sure I read somewhere that for the shutters to close properly one needs to file down the heads of the screws holding the hinges to the shutters and EP0403. It is not an easy thing to do.
I looked at the 'books' (Haynes manual and the Osprey book) and noticed that the external faces of the shutters showed that they were fastened by dome head rivets. Again the lightbulb went off.
I reversed the fit of M2.5 button screws so the heads were on the outside. The inner pairs of screws of the shutter hinges were shortened, (using a tough pair of wire cutters and a strong grip) and superglued into position.

The shutters now close fully and the outside appear to have rivets heads.

I also found I had to file off the Rad cap and a bit of fettling of EP0520's CSK screws to get the doors to open fully.

I'mm off to the Somme next week so will be away from finding problems (did I just hear Kian give a shout of Joy? )

[Pete Nash]

A warning chaps (and chapesses)

For those who are going to motorise their Armoured Car or Chassis you will need Flywheel EP0606 as shown on Page 17, BUT this item is NOT included in the Chassis Kit OR Motion Kit. It is only supplied in the Engine Kit.

The Motion Kit instructions show a motor bearer bolted to the motor and fixed to the engine bearers EP0145 (Page 2). The Flywheel EP0602 needs to be fitted to the Motor Shaft so the Primary shaft can pass through the gearbox to connect onto the main drive shaft thus driving the rear wheels. Without the flywheel i can't see how that can be done.

I've bought the engine kit, but those of you who do not want to spend another £830 will have to beseech Kian to sell you a flywheel.

[Armortek]

Hi Pete

I just want to reply to the following comment in your above post: "I've bought the engine kit, but those of you who do not want to spend another £830 will have to beseech Kian to sell you a flywheel."

This is not correct. Yes, the part was forgotten in some of the kits, HOWEVER this part has now been sent out to all customers involved. We do make a mistake at times and occasionally a part might have accidentally not been packed, but we rectify this as soon as it is brought to our attention. Our customers do not need to pay extra for the flywheel!

Best regards,
Monique