Vince's Tiger 1 late variant 2017

[Vince Cutajar]

Thank you Robert and Steve for the good suggestions about the tile adhesive for the Zimmerit. Which type of tile adhesive would you suggest; the ready mixed type or the powder stuff which one mixes with water?

Steve, I have bought Mike Stannards Zim application tools. They were sent a month ago and I am still waiting for them. Hopefully they will arrive. I got all three sizes as I was not sure which ones I should get. Can anybody who has used these tools tell me which size I should use?

Many thanks

Vince

[Vince Cutajar]

Still waiting for the Amazon parcel although according to the parcel tracking it arrived on the island this morning. So, knowing how things work here, I will be getting it on Monday!

Managed to find something else to do. I have test fitted the idler tension mechanism. Needed the usual deburring and also had to refresh a couple of threaded holes. There is an end-float in the idler shaft of about 1mm. I could eliminate it but something tells me to leave things be. I added some miniature adjustment tabs as per real thing.

Glued them with JB Weld. Had to use a tweezer and magnifying glass! I guess it's an age thing.

Also had a go at the idler tension covers to remove the ridges on the tapered part.

Vince

[Steve Norris]

Vince,
I used the ready mixed tile adhesive a 750g tub is more than enough. I have all 3 of Mike,s application tools, the smaller sizes are useful around hard to reach areas.
Regards
Steve

[Vince Cutajar]

Thanks Steve for that info.

In the meantime, I am still playing around with the idler components. Cleaned up the casting ridges on the idler hubcaps on the lathe. I will be changing the fixing bolts for this component from 3mm cap screws to 3mm hex with a one size smaller head.

And finally the actual idler where I cleaned up the CNC machining marks with a Dremel and a small grinding tool.

Vince

[Robert E Morey]

Vince,
My tile cement is the powder "no-sand" type that must be mixed w water. I have no idea if it will work but it is the right color - a light sandy dunkelgelb - without adding any paint or colorant. Its just laying around - so may as well give it a try. I will do a test piece first before using on a real tank part.
Bob

[Vince Cutajar]

Bob

I think the powder tile adhesive will work also although I have not tried it. I think the advantage with mixing it yourself would be that one can get the exact consistency that one wants.

Vince

[Vince Cutajar]

All the idler components have been etch primed and put to one side. Started the clean up operation on the drive cases. Removed the light machining marks from the tapered portion of the drive cases. This time I put it in the lathe and used sand paper to do the operation. It did not take long.

Deburred all the edges and test fitted the bearings and the geared drive shafts. Even a minute burr will not let the bearing or shaft fit properly. Masked the cases and will etch prime them next.

Vince

[Vince Cutajar]

Cleaned up the sprockets. Used the same method as for the idler. Had to use the 4-jaw chuck as the 3-jaw was too small.

Used the 4-jaw chuck to also create a light chamfer on the sprocket ring teeth.

Vince

[Vince Cutajar]

Haven't done much as the wife and youngest daughter are in London for a break and I am stuck at home babysitting the cats. The idea is to keep them company even though they are sleeping/napping most of the time!

The upside is that it gives me more time to research and plan any changes that I might want to do.

I have a question about the mounting of the sprocket drive case. Were these fitted to the hull with studs and nuts instead of bolts? Can somebody confirm this? Also, were these drive cases welded to the hull? I have seen some that were welded and others that were not.

Vince

[Vince Cutajar]

Nipped for a short while to the workshop. The idea was to temporarily fit the sprocket rings to the sprocket assembly but ran into a minor problem.

The screw on the right is the specified length screw for the inner sprocket ring. It is a bit short. On the left is a 10mm version of the same screw which looks better. Not worried as I was going to change these screws just the same. As I am progressing I am changing to stainless steel hardware.

I also had an idea of using lock tabs for the inner ring just like the outer ring. I have to try and making these extra tabs myself. Buying two photo-etch sheets for just these tabs does not make sense. I could also use washers with lock tabs (these are seen on some real sprocket photos), but using two different locking systems on the same sprocket assembly would not look too good.

So, instead, today I finished up my previous project which just needed a wooden base. At least now it is in it's proper place at home and not languishing around the Armortek boxes risking getting damaged.

USS Monitor steam engine

Vince

[Adrian Harris]

> On the left is a 10mm version of the same screw which looks better

What size is specified in the manual, as the 2010 Mid Tiger manual I have here gives the sprocket ring/tab bolts as being "M2.5 x 10 CAP" ?

I know your picture was a mock up but the Bovington Tiger has the nuts on the outside.

Adrian.

[Vince Cutajar]

Adrian, just now had another look at the manual and it is specifying M2.5X8 Button.

In the meantime drew up the tab.

Sprocket Tab

The idea for the moment is to print it out and then glue it to a thin brass sheet, drill the holes, and cut with scissors. Don't know if it will work out though.

Or else I could ask for them in the wanted section of the forum. Even used ones will do.

Vince

[Vince Cutajar]

Still babysitting the cats here but the wife should be coming back this afternoon. Yesterday I went to the workshop and brought home enough parts to do a trial assembly of the two types of road wheels.

Built them up exactly as shown in the manual to see what modifications, if any, can be done. First thing that came to mind is, as these wheels are interweaved, is there any possibility of mounting them on the swing arms fully assembled. From the looks of it, it might be very difficult to do it but if there is a method of doing it, I would love to hear about it. I then had a look at Tim Bowman's build where he describes a method with the outer wheel of the wide axle fitted at a later stage. There is also a mention of Steve's method but this one I could not find.

So what's the easiest way of fitting these road wheels to the swing arms?

Also spent a lot of time on the internet trying to find 2.5x30mm hex head bolts or screws to replace some that are used on the short axle assembly. Unfortunately this drew a blank.

Vince

[Adrian Harris]

> There is also a mention of Steve's method but this one I could not find.

This is the post:

http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/viewt ... 8804#p8640

Adrian.

[Vince Cutajar]

Thanks Adrian for locating that post. For some reason I could not find it.

I still have a long way to go to actually get to the road wheels but with Steve's and Tim's methods at the back of my mind it gives me food for thought. Infact there is already a plan hatching but I will have to think about it further.

Vince