Churchill Mk3 number 67

[Phil Woollard]

Look very convincing regards Phil

[Adrian Harris]

I've got a Welbike kit on it's way, but it's literally on a slow boat from China. I ordered it in July

That exhaust system looks fabulous

Adrian.

[Gary Richardson]

I've got a Welbike kit on it's way, but it's literally on a slow boat from China. I ordered it in July

That exhaust system looks fabulous

Adrian.

Hi Adrian

Let me know when you get the Welbike as there are a couple of problems to avoid and parts not shown on the diagram.

Regards
Gary.

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

I have added the brackets and 90 degree fittings to the exhaust boxes. These will support the shield plus the shield will have two support posts that appear to go directly to the deck. A bit more research is required to confirm this.

Regards
Gary

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

A bit more progress this afternoon, I added the weld details on the exhaust box supports and connected the quick release fittings to the smoker tubes. The tubes needed heating with my hot air gun to get them into the right location but it means I only have to undo the six deck screws and four retaining nuts to remove the mid deck complete with all the exhaust system still attached.

Regards
Gary

Quick release exhaust connection

[Gary Richardson]

Good morning all

I couldn't resist doing some weathering on the exhaust system, still some way to go but here is the initial result.

Regards
Gary

[Steve Lewington]

Hi Gary
Fantastic job you're doing mate.
Kind regards

Steve

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

I found another little job I had forgotten to do, namely the stud guards on the applique armour fixing points. I used 11/32" brass tube with M4 brass nuts soldered in place. I decided to leave a few off as photos often show some missing.

Regards
Gary

[Steve McEvoy]

Great detailing mate.

[Vince Cutajar]

You are really going all the way with the detailing. Keep it up.

Vince

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

Due to a torn tendon in my shoulder I haven't been able to make much progress on the Churchill. Therefore I am progressing the stowage which will also be on the derrick.
I have a nicely detailed selection of Dave Dibbs tools to work on . The paints are water based acrylics with the odd oil paint such as used for the grease on the brush. The wooden handles are a work in progress as I try to get the right combination of colour, wear and age.
I find this kind of detailing very relaxing and satisfying, made all the easier by the quality of the tools and parts.

Regards
Gary

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

It has been a while since I made any progress on the AVRE due to my shoulder problems. I have started doing the detailing again while I draw up a list of metal supplies required to do the mortar and the accompanying derrick.
Just added some detail to the track adjusters, simple drilled strips of plastic with 1/16" aluminium rivets into holes in the horns. I am also working on the mudguards having decided to go with a stripped down version as I like seeing the tracks. The front mudguards and centre section will be left off and I will start marking the cut lines today. The ally strips atop the mudguards will be drilled and tapped so I can use either M2 or M2.5 bolts to hold them in place, a bit of experimenting will be required first.
The centre mudguard void will have a u-channelled beam across the right hand one to allow the derricks power cables to lay in it.

Regards
Gary

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

Making a bit more progress on the Churchill AVRE this morning. I have spent some time looking at the mudguards and the detailing I want to add. I have plenty of photos of the Mk3 and Mk4 from Bovington plus the reference books and I wanted to replicate the lines of bolts on the rear section of the mudguards.
I have used M2 bolts with washers as these appear to be the closest size wise and took the spacings from the Mk 4 photos. I didn't like the gap where the metal folded so silver soldered it. It will also have car filler added to smooth the fold out.
The metal strips on mine will be spaced slightly differently to how they are shown in the manual as the air intake block is also in a different place compared to the Mk3 and 4 at the museum. The centre section of the mudguards will also be left off.

Regards
Gary

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

Progress is being made on the mudguards. I am now modifying the rear mid sections which have been cut, drilled and have had M2.5 bolts silver soldered in place.
Firstly an admission, I cut the mudguards in the wrong place . Despite measuring twice, marking the line with tape and putting cut arrows in place I managed to cut the wrong side of the tape. My mistake was spinning the tank round and making the first cut on the opposite mudguard to the one I did all the measuring on. Easy thing to do especially as I have made extensive modifications to the positions of the aluminium strips so as to more closely match a reworked MK3 AVRE. It is only about 12mm and looking at all my reference material there are a lot of differences in the mudguards depending who was doing the rework.
A useful tip for those who may still have a Churchill in the box. I have been looking for an easy way to secure the main mudguard sections as it is very difficult to utilise nuts and bolts unless you can remove the lower mudguard EX305. In my case this is difficult due to the extensive additional armour, tow cable supports and blinged air intakes. I experimented with brass nut holders hooked over the lower mudguard but getting them to align was fiddly. I decided to simply silver solder some M2.5 X 4mm bolts in the securing holes. They easily locate into the lower mudguard holes and once you tighten up the bolts on the other part attached to the hull it is all nice and solid. Just what I wanted for those in field repair situations.
The strips were held in placed using three 1/16" ally rivets and Araldite.
As you have probably gathered I am leaving the centre section of the tracks off, this was a common field mod to avoid it jamming the turret after blast damage. Hence why my ally strips look different, the wider ones were mostly on the centre mudguard section and the spacing was different on reworked tanks.
The front mudguard section also had what looks like an additional cover on the reworked tanks which I suspect was to beef up the mudguard and plate where the jack blocks attached. More research is required before I decide whether to do this as well.

Regards
Gary

[Chris Singer]

" Mr Surfacer 500 was used to give the block and covers some texture."

Hi Gary - would be able to share the technique you used to achieve the armour plate surface texture?

Just getting to this stage in my Churchill build

C