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This is my first Armortek kit and have enjoyed most all of it. I made a few mistakes along the way but have learned a lot what not to do in the future on my potentially next kit.

I thought I would post a few pics on my electronics layout, and would be interested to see what others have done. I would have also liked to have seen what Armortek did for their model.

I decided on placing all major components close to each other for connectivity reasons and serviceability, also taking into account keeping certain wires away from ones that might cause interference. So far it has worked out well as I did my first run of the tank on ground and worked well.

All modules except for Module A are on a plexiglass platform suspended above the batteries on two aluminum rails that are screwed to the side of the hull. I think the pictures are self-explanatory. For the receiver antennas (I have three, two for the standard 2.4G and one for 900Mhz - it is a dual band system), I made a small plastic mount to support the antenna wires so they don't just dangle around. I added a master battery cut-out switch under the left front hatch and added a Master battery fuse under the right front hatch and fuses for Module A and B (mounted on the rear side on the hull). One of the charging cables is accessed under the right front hatch, the other is under the engine grill. Module A is mounted in the rear between the motors on a piece of plastic that is wedge shaped about 1/2" thick tapering to about 1/16" so that it tilts the Module upward so there is no stress on the wires.

Also are some images of some modifications I made to the standard kit. I added cross bracing to the mudguards, and added detail to the first aid box. For the periscopes, I added structure to the periscopes to form the truncated pyramid shape on the real tank as well as a simulated hinge and made guards out of brass. I puttied up the holes on the periscope bases and made new mounts underneath with epoxied studs.

On the commander hatch, I added detail around the periscopes by making a master form, then cast a silicone mold and then cast clear resin to make six bezels and glued on all the mounting nuts around them. Finally, on the canvas rack I made additional support structure out of brass like on the real tank, and also have cast 2 clear lenses for the rear taillights. I found a washer with the correct diameter hole and poured casting resin in it.

A couple of question just out of curiosity; The main gun has a lot of up/down play in it - is that normal? Just play in the linkages is all that I can tell. Also, when my turret turns, there are sections that where the gears are a bit more harsh sounding. I noticed that the ring gear is slightly off from being perfectly aligned with the pinion gear of the motor. Not much but the mesh is not constant throughout. It does have a lot of weight to move though. I am not too concerned really since moving the turret all that much is probably not something I would do constantly anyway.

Has anyone else found trying to mount the ring gear assembly into the hull using the countersunk screws on the side a bit difficult? With all the batteries and wires and electronics, I can barely get my fingers in there to hold the nuts. I already dropped one and now it is buried under the battery pan somewhere.

-Ray
Some mods I made so far...
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Very nice work, Ray. I especially like the raised braces on the fenders, are they milliput or metal?

Damon Resch wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 29, 2023 12:28 pm

Very nice work, Ray. I especially like the raised braces on the fenders, are they milliput or metal?

Thanks. They are half-round plastic strips glued on and Tamiya putty used on the sides to blend in.

-Ray

WOW Ray…. You have done some great mods and additions, well done
I was surprised by the up/down free play on the gun barrel and reckon this is going to show up over bumpy terrain , so could I recommend what I am about to try . Going to fit a round rubber bump stop, about 3cm thick between the tilt servo and the slip ring mounting plate just to bridge the gap and remove the slackness.. I think it will work ok?
Also, would it be worth a slight adjustment on the turret turn motor mount to increase the mesh with the motor drive gear and the turret ring teeth .
Brian

Brian, if you could post some pictures of your gun barrel free play fix that would be great.

Ray, thanks for posting those pictures of the layout. Great mods also. I ended up getting the ECA periscopes and some other detailed parts. I'm making my own track jacks, there are two attached to the turret on the real tank. I'm still working on the mechanical assembly and will post pictures when I get a little further on. Not a lot of time to spend on the tank, been very busy.

Brian, I think I know what you’re talking about but as Nick said posting a couple pictures would be helpful. It might work.

Now that I have the turret on and everything screwed together, it’s not gonna be a lot of fun if I ever have to get to something inside the tank.

Nick,
Well, hopefully my pictures might help somebody else in organizing their layout. I spent a very long time thinking it through. I might be completely wrong in how I did it but it’s done now.

I thought about buying some of the mods from ECA that I’ve done myself, but since I’m retired and have a lot more time than some folks, I figured I’d give it a try making the stuff on my own. That was part of the fun for me. I still have more detail stuff to do and then weathering.

-Ray

Hi Ray and Nick…. A couple of photos.. nicked two rubber feet from wife’s garden flower pots and stuck them together….Tapered slightly and stuck to top of slip ring bracket Has taken up the slack in the barrel tilt
Brian

Thanks Brian. I may have a try next time I take the turret off. Everything is buttoned down now. Just more test runs, and track adjustments probably. They loosened up quickly after an initial run. Then more modifications and weathering.

One note that was passed on to me by Dave Macri; The rear curved fenders need to be removed in order to make track tensioning adjustments, so I have soldered nuts on the inside and use hex head screws on the outside so they can be removed easily. Thanks to Dave! I think Tom Miller may have also done this when he soldered all the side skirt nuts on. I have done this as well. About 50 screws but worth it when you want to remove the side skirts.

-Ray

Good morning Ray… I was reading your above response at 0430 this morning and shock, horror… I almost threw in the towel and gave up when you suggested having to remove the ( front) corner mudguard in order to adjust the track tension….
Having just spent the last two days fitting ALL the mudguards and side skirts without any need to solder or stick any nuts on the inside . This is because I did what was suggested back on day one, in AT’s “ hints & Tips” Number 7. They say it is easier to fit the side skirts if the road wheels are removed.
So, I am sorry Ray , and the other builders , that I must disagree with you
Having duly removed all the return rollers and the larger tension roller together with its tensioner cam bolt and nut, I was able to reach ALL screws under the mudguards and inside the side skirts with my nimble 79 year old fingers.
I then refitted all rollers and tensioner fittings ready to fit the tracks….. The tensioner CAN BE ADJUSTED with the tracks on, as shown in my photo.
There is no way of fitting all the bolts of the front corner skirt once the tracks are fitted.
The other photo shows my simple if not rather primitive solution to adjusting the sound volume when the tank is in motion , using a continuous servo.
Now just got to work out how to get the completed tank down the stairs

Brian,

I stand corrected on being able to adjust the tension, just have to do it from underneath. However, I really did not want to have to remove the return rollers or the tension roller any time I wanted to remove the side guards, so for me I think it was worth soldering the nuts. Also, I replaced the buttonhead screws with Hex head obtained from BA-Bolts in the UK as I think they look better.

Another consideration is that in order to fully get into the inside of the tank, for whatever reason, and I anticipate having to do that for any number of reasons, the mudguards will have to be removed in order to get to the front screw of the ring assembly piece that holds the turret motor that is both attached to the mudguard and the side hull. Or you might be able to take the tracks off, one of the return rollers and take off the bracket next to the front storage box to get to the screws. Maybe I am overthinking this. Sometimes I miss the obvious though!

I also added the soldered nuts to the front curved mudguard flap so it can be removed separately from the whole mudguard assembly. I might be wrong but its done now, I have no problem removing the tracks when needed, just did not want to be unscrewing the Loctited return rollers all the time. I already had one roller come off during a test run, as I realized I missed applying Loctite to it!

I like your solution to controlling the volume knob. Having it be able to slip on the pulley makes a lot of sense so as not to damage the potentiometer.
I am thinking of doing something to control it remotely as well. Would prefer a digital volume control but don't want to mess with anything while under warranty.

-Ray

My build is pretty much complete, except for weathering. So I have been adding some additional details. Would love to see what others are doing.

I fabricated a fender mounted siren and metal guard, and a spotlight that mounts on the top of the turret. Neither are perfect representations of the real objects, but they add a bit of detail that visually helps I think. Also added chains to all the gas caps, and added springs to the loaders hatch. Made some small handles that mount on the two front lower hatches, some additional bolt detail on the commander hatch and added another closed periscope.

Finally, on the two headlights I added a plunger tube with chains for the cap and made two additional pins that mount on the front lower brackets. I used a hex lag bolt that was the exact size that fit through the holes, cut to length, drilled a hole for the bolt/nut, and ground off the hex head to a round shape. I know I could have bought some of these things (that would have looked better), but I have the time and this has been part of the fun for me.

Nice details Ray, the extra parts really make these models stand out.
Best regards,
Bob

Robert E Morey wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 12, 2023 6:38 pm

Nice details Ray, the extra parts really make these models stand out.
Best regards,
Bob

Thank you Bob. It has been fun. I keep finding more stuff to do every time I look at it. I am planning on an attempt to do a canvas cover for the mantlet opening.

-Ray

Nice additions Ray.

Vince