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Hi all

Just wanted to run this past the Churchill builders who have already completed the drive sprocket assembly. I e-mailed Kian and Monique but suspect they are very busy getting ready for Tankfest so thought I would ask my fellow builders. I am going to Tankfest Friday so may get the chance to ask Kian then
Referring to page 14:-
The driven gear EX0220 has the bearing Loctited to the shaft and also the gearbox casing, similar method as the Tiger and I am assuming green Loctite is used. The outer bearing 6000-2RS apparently is also Loctited to the shaft and EX0225 ( says EX0224 on page 14). My problem is I do not see how you can get to the taper lock or remove EX0224 once you have Loctited the bearing to do adjustments, maintenance etc.
I am thinking about not Loctiting the inner race of the 6000-2RS bearing but the shaft is quite a loose fit and could just revolve inside the inner race causing wear.
Any thoughts you may have would be gratefully received as this is holding up completion of the lower hull.

Regards
Gary

Hi,
My outer bearing is not glued to the shaft so it can easily be removed, when the tracks are tensioned it’s unlikely that the shaft will spin in the bearing unless the bearing seizes, you could add grease so if it did it should not wear, But then my tanks do not do a lot of miles. Hope this helps.


David

> But then my tanks do not do a lot of miles

Until you sell them to me (or Allan)

Adrian.

The Cromwell has done the most of the lot, two great swans to Holland (Militracks) as well....
Steve

Looking at Churchill tanks they don’t seem to have tyres on the rear drive sprockets

Hi Gary

Can I ask what your decision was regarding loctiting the bearings, I am approaching this stage (when I figure out CP1233 M5x? Fixing Bolts to use) and quite like the idea of not using Loctite on the bearings when possible.

Andy

Hi Andy

I did not Loctite the outer shaft to the bearing. If you do you will not be able to get to the taper lock later on should adjustments or maintenance be required. This also proved the right choice as I had to realign the drive wheels once the bogies were in place.

Regards
Gary

Thanks Gary I will do the same

Regards
Andy

Are there any secrets to getting the various metal panels that unite to support the sprocket wheel into perfect alignment? I find with everything connected and tightened up the Sprocket wheel binds severely and is not at all free running…?

Hi Chris

I also had a problem lining them up. Leave the button head screws that connect EX1008, EX0119 and EX0216 just finger tight and revolve the sprocket while gently moving the rear plate EX0224, once it is spinning freely start tightening up the button heads. It took me several attempts plus a bit of fettling where EX0224 meets the main pannier end to achieve this. I think the main problem is the pannier sides are so long that even a tiny induced angle when fitting them disproportionally affects the position at the rear of the pannier.
Neither of my pannier sides are exactly symmetrical despite a lot of effort to make them so. You may find it helpful to have a second pair of hands available to tighten the button heads while you move the plate.
Hope this helps.

Regards
Gary