Panther #42

[Simon Compton]

Just thought I would pop a quick post up to say Hi from West Yorkshire

Panther No 42 landed about 6 weeks ago and I have been lurking on here ever since ...well on and off for months TBH ha ha ha

Thanks to all the superb posts, you guys are truly talented.
Its really flipping daunting initially to have so much steel to work with after 50 years of plastic ! ha ha ha
The Panther has also encompassed a tank workshop project turning my dump of a garage into a suitable area for the build, door cut to access my garage from my utility space, radiator plumbed in ...yes I am nesh!... and I have had had to get hold of every tool required,...I had nowt!....its been great fun... first time using a pilar drill & taps and dies since I was at school...its really weird and I have found it a bit scary to start with removing metal....so my progress is very slow.
I have been bugging Mark Lawson on PM so though that I would just say hello to you all.

Kind regards to you all
Simon

[Simon Compton]

Hi Everyone,

All your workmanship and attention to detail is outstanding,

Progress on #42 is err ...Sloooooooooooooo

Anyway I have had a bit of a kerfuffle with the motor mounts ( CP0205 )...I have looked to see if this has flagged up on the forum but cant see any posts so apologies if it is a no brainer !

So the build call out has M5 x 16 CSK attaching the mounts, but weirdly when trial fitting these the screws "grab" immediately , tried M5 x 10 that came with the kit and they go straight in with my fingers no problem, tried some 10 UNF x 3/4 CSK's and they go in real smooth like the previous M5 x 10's that I tried.

Its weird ...is it me ? ...Probably !

If anyone can point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it...I haven't wanted to start shoving taps down the threads.

Cheers all , Si

[Ed Groenenberg]

Hello Simon.

I had no problems at all with the motor mounts and the M5x16 CSK's.
If you have a M5 tap and/or die, try running them by had through the holes and/or screws.

Best,
Ed

[Adrian Harris]

If you put the threads of the M5x16 and the M5x10 bolts back to back, do they mesh completely ?

Adrian.

[Armortek]

Simon, if one type of M5 fastener can thread in with no issues then all of the M5 we provide will - they are all an identical pitch.

The kit includes M6x12CSK, so just make sure you are not trying to use those instead.

[Simon Compton]

Hi All

Thanks for your help , I am going to double check to make sure that I haven't picked up the M6 , but I went to the local fasteners supplier and bought some new M5 x 16s from them and they grabbed too, its really strange.

Going to rewind my brain and double check everything again, its got to be me LOL

Thanks again

Si

[Simon Compton]

Hi All , thanks for all your responses with advice
As expected it was down to me being a bit over cautious with the parts, I had sort of knew that if a certain thread fitted with a different bolt then that it shouldn't be a problem , so I ran a cap screw through the thread and it cleaned it up so all great now.
Great stuff, thanks again for your help and advice.
Cheers
Si

[Simon Compton]

Hi All,
Can I ask you to cast your eyes over the attached image and confirm that I have set the angle of the torsion bars/ axel too shallow ! Grrrrrrr
It looks it to me...what do you think?
As usual ...help !
Cheers
Si

[Ed Groenenberg]

Hi All,
Can I ask you to cast your eyes over the attached image and confirm that I have set the angle of the torsion bars/ axel too shallow ! Grrrrrrr
It looks it to me...what do you think?
As usual ...help !
Cheers
Si

If it's 30 degrees, then is is ok.
I also made a wedge, (from cardboard), and then propped the base up with material until the wedge
made the correct angle for the swing arms.
I had a space of 23 mm between the table and the bottom.

Ed

[Simon Compton]

Cheers Ed
I had made a cardboard template to start with then a joiner at work made me the wood wedges which are bang on 30 degrees, its just when looking at other peoples posted images mine looked as though the angle was wrong ( sort of the axels aren't pointing down at an acute enough angle if you know what I mean )
I was worrying that when the wheels are on and it settles on its weight it will just hit the bump stops and give me a load of grief so I just though I would get it right now.
Thanks for getting back to me.
Cheers
Si

[Ed Groenenberg]

No problem.

This is how I did mine.

[Simon Compton]

Hi There,
Thought that I would get to grips with the Taranis transmitter....which has been interesting to say the least ! After simple plug and play 4 and 6 channel sets it sort of twisted my melons man... anyway I have bench set up of the loom with all the bells and whistles and I am pretty much there ...apart from...Ta-Dar!!
.....The MG flash LED...
Just to confirm that the 2 pin MG flash LED wire fits into the 3 pin ( output 4 ) fitting on the Audio module? , that's how it looks to me in the instructions.
It just seems a bit weird...Well to me it does anyway
Hope someone can confirm for me?

Cheers
Si

[Simon Compton]

Hi There
Kian has confirmed it for me ,the MG flash LED ( Panther G ) wire fits into the top 2 pins of the 3 pins on output 4 of the Audio module.
I just didn't want to blow anything
Wahoo

[Simon Compton]

Hi There,
Is there a "WRONG" way of assembling the front sprockets ...because if there is I think that I may have found it !
My front sprockets with the timing marks aligned...or they appear to be to me.. still have the teeth that are slightly out and a test has proved that they will not roll through the tracks ?
What in goodness have I done wrong ? Is there quite a number of ways of building the sprockets to get the timing marks perfect?
Either side of the sprocket teeth are slightly out and wont run through the tracks.
Any advise on building the sprockets would be extremely welcome as I am really stumped.
Hope someone has a solution or has experienced this, what the hell have I done ? ...Good Grief
Cheers Si

[Simon Compton]

Thought I would post up a couple of images....Help