Churchill 58

[Andy Cameron]

Hi all
Does anyone know what the bolt type and size should be to lock up the pannier rear overlap ? My manual doesn’t specify it but I assume it would be an m3x8 button ? Can anyone confirm what they used I.e. is it m3 or m4 possibly looking at the spring tension to pull the rear flush.

In addition when assembling the panniers I assume the width difference on the front units should be offset to the inside towards the hull ?

Hopefully you can see the front plate in the above is well inside the pannier side when I make the other outside flush.
Or should they be central with both inside and out slightly inside the pannier sides ?

[Andy Cameron]

Impatience got the better of me so I used m3x8 button and later in build stages in the manual it shows equal spacing of the front sections so here the panniers are to date.

Next step will be a top coat

[Gary Richardson]

Hi Andy

I asked Kian the same question regarding the pannier idler horn spacings, Kian confirmed they should be centrally positioned with equal spacings both edges.

Regards
Gary

[Andy Cameron]

Thankyou for confirming Gary, looking forward to your next additions on your build.

[Armortek]

Hi all
Does anyone know what the bolt type and size should be to lock up the pannier rear overlap ? My manual doesn’t specify it but I assume it would be an m3x8 button ? Can anyone confirm what they used I.e. is it m3 or m4 possibly looking at the spring tension to pull the rear flush.

Drawing 12C shows M3x10 Button Heads for this.
If you have already fitted the bolts in an earlier stage they will need to be removed and re-inserted as part of the assembly in drawing 12c.

In addition when assembling the panniers I assume the width difference on the front units should be offset to the inside towards the hull ?
Hopefully you can see the front plate in the above is well inside the pannier side when I make the other outside flush.
Or should they be central with both inside and out slightly inside the pannier sides ?

Have a look at Drawing 6 - you need to fit part EX0124, so the EX0115 family of parts need to be aligned accordingly.

[Andy Cameron]

Thanks Armortek I didn’t look far enough forward to see the m3x10 bolts

[Andy Cameron]

Hi all

Still slow progress but I have a general question for you experienced builders. The next build stage is to assemble the 3 sub assemblies below, so just after opinions on painting, I know this will very much be an individual builders choice. I was planning to paint the 3 assemblies individually prior to assembly as it’s starting to get unwieldy as the build progresses or would it be better to only paint areas that would be difficult to spray once assembled. I guess if I leave most of the top coat painting until assembled I could then incorporate all the additional bolt on items in one go and one paint mix maybe with some additional small areas likely to be difficult after assembly. So any input welcomed ……appreciate no right or wrong way with this.

[Andy Cameron]

Decided to plough on and top coat later

[Andy Cameron]

Hi all, after a long lay up I am back on the Churchill build. A question or thought I have which the more experienced maybe able to help with. Obviously certain assemblies need Loctite especially the drive train but I was wondering how effective the paint application might be at providing a low strength Loctite effect making future disassembly easier. For example in the below I would likely use blue Loctite on the main when shaft assembly but as for the rest would the over spray once assembled suffice ?

[Andy Cameron]

Just read the above back and it’s not very clear so second attempt. As an example of what I mean, looking at the below sub assembly I will spray over the nut and bolt therefore will the paint which is Tamiya acrylic provide some locking of the nut, I guess it has too but will it be enough, also depends I thickness but on average would this be all that is needed here ?

[Dave Goodwin]

I'm by no means experienced, not even having started building mine yet, but I would not personally rely on paint as a locking mechanism. Blue Loctite is generally not at all difficult to loosen, so I'd simply LocTite that nut anyway.

Good luck with the build!

[Andy Cameron]

Thanks Dave, look forward to seeing your build.

[Andy Cameron]

First 6 bogies complete

[Andy Cameron]

The lessons you learn …….first lesson as I slowly progress is that to benefit from the experience gained building an Armortek kit is that you need to buy another one to fully benefit from the experience…….wife not yet convinced. Second lesson is one that should not have happened ….yes I tried to cut corners and save time with fitting the bushes into the wheel carriers, after fettling a good number to get a nice push fit I thought I will save time by heating the aluminium carrier/swing arm using a blow heater and then the bushes that don’t quite fit will push in and thereafter I have a nice interference bush fitting. Sounds logical but I also wanted to apply as with all the others Loctite bearing compound, so I heated the swing arm and test fitting the bushes, perfect a nice push fit so I reheated and the applied a thin coat of Loctite to the swing arm internal bore …….on pushing the bushes in all 4 immediately locked about 1/3 inch in ? It was almost like the Loctite was acting as contact adhesive ( I always thought heat would be a good way to release Loctite bearing compound ?) so now the dilemma, with tools I have it was impossible to remove any of the bushes to allow a clean up and refit. The only way now was brute force and go ahead with help of one large hammer and force all 4 home, this completed ok but took some force. So all ends well but I can’t understand why the Loctite behaved in this way unless it was just coincidence, what’s the lesson learnt ……don’t cut corners, should have known better I guess.

[Gary Richardson]

Hi Andy

I would avoid using a hammer, it's more likely to distort the bush. I eased mine home using a vice to apply the pressure required. A piece of wood or copper can be used to protect the bush ends. I also bought a reamer the same size as the internal diameter of the bush as a few were sightly out of line once installed.

Regards
Gary