Churchill 58

[Andy Cameron]

Hello all and thanks to those who have already helped me. As I suspect I may have quite a few questions so I’m starting my own build thread.

Starting point

Collected kit 58 in person today, thanks to Armortek for allowing me cut out the cut out the courier.
After I sort a few other distractions out I will push on with the Churchill which is my first Armortek build. Hoping to get underway this weekend .

[Andy Cameron]

Silly question #1 - I just ordered some Upol acid etch 8 grey 450ml cans, I have noticed there seems to be a variety of can designs I’m assuming that even though the cans have a different design I.e. some light red with grey lid and some black lid dark red can with grey noted on the can that these are just date variations of the product release ? The ones I ordered are a dark red with black lid and a grey colour tab with grey written inside. As it’s the start point of the build I just want to ensure what I am going to use is the good stuff.

[Derek Attree]

Hi Andy
The red cans are the newer design seems to be the same stuff inside I have used both with no problems.

Regards Derek

[Andy Cameron]

Thanks Derek

[Vince Cutajar]

Me too.
Used both with no problems.

Vince

[Andy Cameron]

Thanks both, let’s try to make it a bit more challenging. My initial plans are for step 1 the main tub assembly:-

Debur and countersink as required. Trial assembly - Degrease with Upol, Upol acid etch prime all parts in this assembly. After drying assemble
With Loctite 222 ( As this is the tub I’m hoping vibration might be low ? I believe the bolts etc would be ok for 243 blue but just incase I need to take apart at sometime I was thinking Loctite 222 the better option for this subassembly). Not sure I will then prime over with red oxide or simply a spray over the assembled tub again with Upol #8 acid etch not sure if it even needs another coat prior to topcoat for my build (just really looking for protection from all forms of corrosion and a good topcoat base) . ( I did read that Upol state if a follow on 2k primer is used over acid etch #8 that it should be done within an hour or flattening will be required). I assume for acid etch on acid etch or acid etch then topcoat would not have such a requirement should the follow on painting not occur for sometime.

All comments thoughts good and bad welcome

[Derek Attree]

Hi Andy
I just etch primer coat parts before I assemble them so joining faces have a covering
to stop corrosion I often don't top coat for months.
I then top coat onto the etch primer surface never had a problem doing that.
I never use loctite building the hull and body components. I just use it on running gear items where its called
for in the instructions.

Hope this helps

Regards

Derek

[Andy Cameron]

Thanks again Derek

I like the idea of only using Loctite where the instructions call for it, I know that experience with these beasts may overrule the manual in some cases so good to know the hull stays secure without Loctite depending on use I guess. I don’t want to layer up paint too much either so good to know others also take the single etch primer coat + topcoat approach.

Regards
Andy

[Andy Cameron]

Hi all

I have begun building at last, impressed with components and also etch primer which gives a great finish (first time I have used this)

I noticed that priming through holes I.e. non threaded so far is ok just for some protection.

Moving on I have prepared more parts

Now the question ? Looking the rear plate assembly with the 8 thin metal strips 4 top and 4 bottom I think it might be good to top coat this sub-assembly before assembly onto the hull. I am not looking for perfectly accurate colour match but something close would be good. I am considering a final finish colour of one of following Tamiya XF 62 flat olive drab / XF 61 dark green or XF 67 nato green. All Acrylic which I believe is water solvable and non-toxic ? Also looking to treat myself to spray gun so Tamiya X20A thinners to be used also. Any opinions on the colour choices and paint type welcomed, I assume Tamiya Acrylics are good on top of Upol acid etch. Not sure on thinner ratios yet for spraying but I’m sure plenty of historical data on this forum to read.

[Derek Attree]

Hi Andy
Tamiya thinners are basically Iso Prop which I use to thin for airbrushing their paints
A 500 ml bottle is about the same price as one of the silly little jars.
I have bought it on line and in certain hardware and car spare shops
Regards

Derek

[Andy Cameron]

Thanks Derek

[Andy Cameron]

Hi all regarding colour I have decided on Tamiya XF-67 nato-green and will airbrush the top coat. Quick question for others with the Churchill kit. This isn’t of any concern but just interested if it has been done deliberately to allow some adjusts on the front assembly, on my kit part EX-114 one of thee panels has slightly elongated holes as per below. The other one is all true, whether deliberate or not it doesn’t affect the assembly so just out of interest.

[Andy Cameron]

Hi all

Should the manual on 03 hull assembly 01 specify M4x10 CSK to fit side panel EX0114 to EX0108, it states M4x8 CSK but after an hour I can’t find any in the fastenings pack but the tapped holes are deep enough for M4x10.

Rgds
Andy

[Andy Cameron]

Luck has it I had spare M4x10 CSK so used those and ploughed on

[Andy Cameron]

Slower progress than I was hoping but still progress at least, I think I will topcoat this assembly now.