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Hi All

I am in the process of setting up my Taranis X9D PLUS 2019 transmitter for the Tiger and would like some advice on stick configurations and when to use self centre springing and ratchets. I have changed the transmitter from mode 2 to mode 1 (throttle right) for single stick driving and have set the ratchet tension on the right hand stick for main motors forward and reverse and left it spring centring for left and right. Then I starting wondering if the stick should be completely self centring so that the tank would stop if the stick was released as a safety function.
On the left hand stick do you keep the ratchet on for gun elevation and the spring centring for turret right and left ?
I realise people probably have their own preferences but as this is my first tank I thought it best to ask as nearly all the advice on the forum is about the programming rather than the mechanics of setting up a transmitter.
As usual any advice will be gratefully received

Regards
Gary

Mode preferences aside (I've always used Mode 2) I began with a ratchet on the throttle because I began with gas/glow powered models. A self centering stick made more sense to me for electric models with a throttle control that controls both forward and reverse as opposed to strictly one direction as in the case of my models with selectable forward speeds and reverse; typically they are quite slow moving models. For a model with the potential for a jack rabbit startup I might rethink that.

Of course it is possible as you know to install ratchets on other gimbals. On one of my transmitters I have ratchets on both x and y axis gimbals as I use that stick for selecting gears from a 10 speed forward/2 reverse transmission on a truck model.

It really boils down to what you feel comfortable with and what you need to get the function the way you like it, there is no right and wrong of it.

My 2 denarii worth...

Jerry

I always have the sticks self-centring. Too much risk of the stick getting knocked, or just not being centred when the tank is turned on.

Adrian.

Absolutely agree with Adrian - it’s a safety issue. The only exception is perhaps the stick controlling elevation where you want the gun to remain in a selected position. With all else the motion should happen only when the stick is positively moved from centre. In other words, you need motion to stop when the sticks are released.

Ihi all
I have always used a single stick with self-centering,
and a mix to use a single lever,
for a year I have changed radio and use a Flysky PL18 EV
https://www.flysky-cn.com/paladin-evdescription
another planet,
is a specific radio for terrestrial and/or tracked models,
has 2 levers one right and one left to control the tracks
and the joysticks remain free for other uses
Ciao
Marco

The other thing I've begun in concert with the control system setup for these larger models is to make a cut-off switch for the main drive motors. I do this so I can test other functions without worrying that a bump on the wrong stick will send the model somewhere unexpected or worse hurt someone ( likely me).

Not a direct answer to your question but in support of it.

Jerry

That's quite a neat idea. I believe flyers tend to have an "ignition" switch so a bump to the stick doesn't cause havoc with the prop.

Adrian.

They do Adrian. In the first two pics below, on Spektrum, I've used the inbuilt Throttle Cut function assigned to the left hand two position Mix switch. The Throttle is inactive when the switch is in the up position. (If the transmitter is mishandled, it's more likely that the two position switches are knocked up than down, so the safe position should be up).


For OpenTX, all I've done is add a Special Function which overrides the throttle channel when two position switch F (SF) is in the up position. I've also assigned two sounds to the switch (Engine Off and Armed).


We'd have to think about how to implement a throttle cut switch on our different configuration. On aircraft, the throttle range is -100 to +100 with engine off in the -100 position. For tanks, the engine is off in the centre position, 0. The OpenTX implementation should be easy to edit but I'm not sure how the Throttle Cut function is implemented on Spektrum. I suspect we could use a throttle curve.

It's a good idea. For aircraft, it's a real safety issue - propellors with electric motors can sever digits. For tanks, inadvertant movement might be a problem if there is something/someone in the way or the model is on a bench. I did use to wear a neck strap on my transmitter until the day it got caught on the throttle as I was picking up the Tx. If I'd had a throttle cut switch, the model wouldn't have moved.

Hi guys,

for 'normal' safety demands a simple failsafe function would be adequate, I mean. Every airplane modeler uses it to protect his model from radio interferences. With activated failsafe a tank stops immediately when its radio signal is lost. Therefore it is fully sufficient to switch off the Tx when the tank moves unexpectedly.

For higher safety demands you can use a high current relay switching the input lines of the ESC (if no BEC is used) or of the output lines to the motors (if a BEC is used). This relay is controlled by a seperate switch at the Tx.

For very high safety demands (e.g. a special electronic defect in the Tx, Rx or ESC) a tiny second Tx / Rx can be used only for the stopping relay. I once planned such a solution for a 1/3 scale King Tiger of a friend. This model should weigh more than 1.000 kgs and was intended to be driven by a bike motor with 120 hp, a hydraulic pump and hydraulic motors. Unfortunately the owner died before he could finish this extraordinary project. Only a glacis plate remained........

Hi All

Thanks for the replies and good to see the safety aspects being discussed.
I have been trying to set up the basics in my Taranis X9D Plus 2019 transmitter but have got totally confused.
I want to use single stick driving on the right stick with elevation and traverse on the left stick. the receiver is an Archer R8 Pro.
I have set mode 2 and the channel priority is AETR (as recommended in the manual) but when I go the the channels monitoring screen I get the following from the stick inputs.
CH1 L stick L/R (Rudder)
CH2 R stick U/D (Elevator)
CH3 L stick U/D (Throttle)
CH4 R stick L/R (Aileron)
Altering the channel priority does not seem to make any difference. If anyone already using the same transmitter is able to assist with advice or point me in the right direction I would be grateful.
Regards
Gary

This is exactly the joy/pain of learning OpenTX.

You need to create a MIX which adds two channels together to make single stick driving possible.

So if right stick up/down is throttle and left/right is rudder, then you create a MIX CH1 which is 100% throttle and 100% rudder.
Then you create a MIX CH2 which is 100% throttle and -100% rudder.

These are what will drive OUTPUTs CH1 and CH2 on the receiver.

My radio is set up as RETA but it makes no odds as you just pick the inputs you want which tie in with the controls you want to use.

Then you have the fun of getting the motors wired so that 100% on both outputs is forwards, and left and right work as you expect.

Adrian.

Gary, if you look at my Cent thread, here:

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=3931&start=1005

there's a bit about how I set up OpenTX. It might help with the software bit but as Adrian says, you may then have to play around with the motor connections until you find the correct combination.

If anyone is interested I can always try sending an OpenTx config file that has the mixes I use. It may not be precisely what
another person needs but it should serve at least as an example. I'd say screen shots of OpenTx Companion but the entire
setup is across several screens.

Jerry

Hi All

Thanks for all the replies and advice.
I will spend some time going through the manual and follow the advice given. I have started inputting the model and registered and bound the receiver, I think the reason the channel priority looks wrong is the model was already partially input presumably as it is using the model widgit Stephen mentions in his Open TX build thread. At present I don't appear to able to delete the model so I can start afresh. I am sure it will explain how to in the manual, just have to treat it all as a chance to learn new tricks.

Regards

Gary

> At present I don't appear to able to delete the model so I can start afresh

You can't delete the active (starred) model.

Just select another one if you want to start again, then you can check settings with the current one.

Adrian.