Request for advice please
I am very new to this but have built most of the chassis, trying on the front wheels they seem very "wobbly" with the screw done up finger tight ,any tighter and they cant move . The rear appear to require a lot of fettling as they only fit part way onto the taper.I guess it is me doing something wrong but I cant work out what it is,
All advice greatfully recieved
Solid wheels
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Re: Solid wheels
I found that I can get the wheels seated on the tapers ok, but the kit-supplied bearings have a lot of radial runout (aka... they allow wobble!).
I have not solved it yet and may not as both of my kits are going to be static. And it may not matter at RC speeds and 'handling.'
But I don't think the problem is in your wheels seating on their tapers or on your kingpins. But in the bearings.
Likely, you can source some tighter bearings for the hubs... there are all manner of tolerance available.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Sirhr
I have not solved it yet and may not as both of my kits are going to be static. And it may not matter at RC speeds and 'handling.'
But I don't think the problem is in your wheels seating on their tapers or on your kingpins. But in the bearings.
Likely, you can source some tighter bearings for the hubs... there are all manner of tolerance available.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Sirhr
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Re: Solid wheels
I have been trying to remote assist my father but so far no success.
The problem is not wheel wobble on the front wheels but rather they lock solid on EPO216 if the M5x16 CSK is tightened fully. He has confirmed EPO215 rotates freely if the wheels are not fitted. Backing off the M5x16 allows the wheels to turn but results in loose screws and the wheel wobble. Sounds to me like a stand-off spacer is required between EPO215 and the road wheel but one does not seem to be shown in the instructions.
Mark
The problem is not wheel wobble on the front wheels but rather they lock solid on EPO216 if the M5x16 CSK is tightened fully. He has confirmed EPO215 rotates freely if the wheels are not fitted. Backing off the M5x16 allows the wheels to turn but results in loose screws and the wheel wobble. Sounds to me like a stand-off spacer is required between EPO215 and the road wheel but one does not seem to be shown in the instructions.
Mark
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Re: Solid wheels
thanks Mark , you explained it so much better than I did , and also thanks forthe above advice although this will be ,if I get it finished a radio controlled one
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Re: Solid wheels
How to cure those wobbly wheels. I would be surprised if Armortek used bearings that had so much end play (wobble). My front wheels also wobbled when first put together but I soon identified it was not because of poor quality bearings but because the whole bearing itself was able to move in the bearing housing, part no EPO216. Ideally this should be a tight fit and I think the rear plate EP0217 is supposed to hold the bearing fast in this part but for whatever reason it doesn’t work. The solution is to bond the bearing into part EP0216, that made my wobble 90% better. I used Chemical Metal because you need a filler as well as bond. There is also some play possible with the spindle EP0224 where they pass through the uprights at each end of the axle, this time is used Locktite. I drilled a small hole trough the spindle bearer into the channel and once the spindle was in place and assembled I then injected a small quantity of superglue into the hole thus holding the spindle solid in its housing. These two mods take away 99% of any wobble.
Regards
Paul C
Regards
Paul C
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