Metal Filler Material

[Adam Osga]

Hello forum,

I was hoping hear from others what you use to fill the screw heads and other holes/imperfections which can then be sanded and painted over. What do you use, what have you used in the past and what are the pluses and minuses of different materials that you have used?

Thanks,
Adam

[Robert Reid]

Not sure if available in UK, but I use JB-Weld or JB-Kwik. It's a metal-filled epoxy.

In larger quantities, there is a bodyworking product called "Metal-to-Metal" which is like Bondo, but uses colloidal aluminum for the 'filler' instead of talc (which is what is in Bondo). The stuff is tougher than woodpecker lips, but can be a pain to work with.

JB Weld is about the best stuff I've found.

Cheers,

RPR

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JB-J-B-Weld-82 ... :rk:2:pf:0

[Brian Ostlind]

Tamilya putty works, milliput, even modeling clay. Pretty much whatever you can get your hands on.

[Pete Nash]

I use a product called 'Chemical Metal' available here in the UK under the 'Plastic Padding Brand'. Its a two part epoxy resin that adheres to metal wood and stone, and can be filed, sanded drilled and tapped.

It is made by 'Henkel', I believe they are the same people who make Loctite so it may be available in the US.

Another alternative is another product available here as ISOPON Car body filler which is similar. Both may be available in the US, possibly as different names, in Car Body Repair Shops or accessory distributors.

I find that most Model fillers are porous and leave a visible presence when painted over. 'Chemical Metal' does not leave any visible trace, nor does the Isopon car body fillers, which is why I take a magnet with me if I am buying a second hand car - it doesn't stick where it has been filled!

[Peter Silcock]

Not sure if available in UK, but I use JB-Weld or JB-Kwik. It's a metal-filled epoxy.

In larger quantities, there is a bodyworking product called "Metal-to-Metal" which is like Bondo, but uses colloidal aluminum for the 'filler' instead of talc (which is what is in Bondo). The stuff is tougher than woodpecker lips, but can be a pain to work with.

JB Weld is about the best stuff I've found.

Cheers,

RPR

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JB-J-B-Weld-82 ... :rk:2:pf:0

JB Weld is available in the Uk and the best I have come across for this type of thing. You can drill and tap it as well. Good stuff.

[Stephen White]

As ever, there's no right answer but two things to think about:

- will the material shrink when drying/curing? (It's a pain to have to go back and add more)

- will the assembly ever need to be dismantled?

and possibly a third, is it easy to use?

The mainstream answer is Milliput. It's two part and can be tricky to get it to adhere to the part rather than your fingers or spatula. A little moisture helps where you don't want it to stick. It can be a bit fragile but that means it's relatively easy to chip off if you ever need to get at a fastener underneath. It will shrink a bit on curing. It is easy to mould and get a really invisible fill and can be filed/sanded/drilled. Magic Sculpt is very similar.

The epoxy based car fillers are good but more difficult to remove and can be tricky to achieve a good finish.

The plastic modellers have a range of products such as Perfect Plastic Putty by Deluxe Materials. They tend to shrink and aren't very robust for one sixth.

Brave souls have used CA glue with a filler such as microballoons or styrene. It runs, permanently attaches fingers to models and you need heat to remove. Other than that, it's fine.

If you're considering torching your model in a shed fire in the future and then selling it to Adrian Harris, Milliput is the answer. For everything else, you probably need to try a few out and select which is best for you. None of them are perfect and we live in hope of the new material which does it all.....

Stephen

[Adam Osga]

Thank you so much for the feedback so far! If anyone uses anything different, please share.

Adam