Michael's RR Armoured Car

[michael haerle]

Hello forum,

the RR Armored Car is a great model. I will build the model with the extra available engine kit. Here I start my report on the construction of the beautiful model. I have not decided exactly what color scheme the model will receive. The three colors Camouflage of a Vehicle, Western Front 1917 in the book of Davis Fletcher I like very well.

What I would also like, however, is a vehicle during the Irish Civil War / Independence War, for example, captured by the IRA with figures in "civilian clothes". But now the model is being built.

I start with the wheels. The assembly of the wheels is a challenge. I practiced for a while until I was satisfied with the result. Ultimately, however, everything is just a question of the right technology. Once you have found it for yourself, the construction of the wheels is progressing relatively quickly. Single wheel about 3-4 hours double wheel about 6-7 hours.

I pulled all the spokes into the rim and then soldered them at the end. So holds the spoke properly and is nice and tight.

Here is the tool I use:

[Robert Reid]

Fletcher's book is very good.

I also recommend the really fun Haynes Manual on the RR Armoured car, written with cooperation of the folks at the Tank Museum, Bovington. Especially for someone interested in the Irish (post-war) pattern.

There are a number of great books. If anyone wants me to post a reading list... let me know!

Cheers,

RPR

[michael haerle]

Hello Robert,

thank you for your info. If I want to know something, I'll get in touch.

greetings
Michael

[michael haerle]

I build the single wheels first.

I start every wheel build by adjusting the wheel hub and rim. The rims are not the same as the outer hole row with respect to the inner row of holes. If you do not adjust all the stitches the same, the spoke pattern differentiates slightly for each wheel. I also gave each wheel side mirror images. So that on each side the wheels show the same spoke direction. To make the adjustment, I use ordinary wooden toothpicks. With the different holes wheel hub / rim, upper and lower row of holes, there are various possibilities. The results in the spoke image are slightly different. I am in favor of the wheel hub / rim adjustment seen in the pictures - lower / upper

When everything is adjusted, all screws of the mounting plate are tightened. I start with the inside. This must be properly tightened. It may be, it moves again with the outer ring. That does not matter. The provisional "wooden spokes" take the rim in the right position. Tighten the middle screw. If the wheel moves during assembly, it can not be retracted and the already mounted spokes loosen.

I attach a few wire test spokes and measure with a small self-made angle level if the adjustment wheel hub / rim is right. If everything fits, the assembly can start.

Greetings Michael

[Adrian Harris]

That looks like another excellent solution

Adrian.

[michael haerle]

I prepare the spokes for installation. I bring all the wires into a uniformly curved shape so that there are no kinks in the wires. The head of the wire I bend with a needle-nose forceps about 45 degrees in a line with the curved shape.

Best regards Michael

[michael haerle]

the view on the building continues ...

Wheel hub and rim are mounted on the mounting device. All screws are tight. The mounting device I attach with a screw clamp left and right at the table.

I put the prepared wires into the wheel hub and rim. This is easy with the pre-bent spokes and there are no new kinks or bends. I make 8-10 wires in one direction.

Now I take a pair of pliers and go straight the wires. Right tight and firm. This tightening I do over the edge of the mounting plate and thus use a lever effect. This allows the wires to be pulled really tight. The hereby created "corner piece" I remove with a side cutter.

I straighten the wire with a pliers one last time.

Then I put the "ferrule" on the wire.

After that, I take a second pair of pliers to hand and press the ferrule firmly on the wheel rim. At the same time I bend the wire over the ferrule. Both very close to each other.

Now bring liquid solder with the brush outside and inside the ferrule and solder both parts with the Proxxon flame soldering device.

[michael haerle]

So the soldered spokes look at the rim inside

When the 8-10 spokes are done, the next 8-10 wires will come. All spokes of one direction will be fully assembled.