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Everything prepped Build starts tomorrow.

Progress has been made and stage 1 now complete.
A bit of filing required and the Hull Floor Rear needed to be shortened quite a bit at both ends to enable the bolt-holes to line up. Used the angle grinder for that.
Once everything lined up, tightened all bolts hand-tight, and then went round removing each in turn, applied Loctite, re-inserted and tightened. I do not want anything vibrating loose later on.
Now filling the bolt holes and gaps with Milliput prior to spraying the underside and lower part of the hull. Not bothered about weld details in this area as it won´t be seen. I just want the gaps to be sealed and waterproof.
After thinking about how I was going to mask the suspension bushes prior to painting, I have ordered plastic bungs in the various sizes, pack of 20 for bush in suspension bar (18 needed), pack of 20 for holes in hull side plates (18 required)and 4 for the idler bearing. Total cost 11 Euros

Started on the road-wheels today, fitting the tab washers to the external wheels.
Tightened all the screws and nuts using a nut-spinner and screw-driver.
Then went to bend up the tab washers and could not do it.
Now in the process of loosening all screws, bending up the tab washers and then re-tightening all the screws.

It´s a long way to Tipperary......
But without these mishapps, it´s only half the fun

Cheers

Peter

Peter Quambusch wrote: But without these mishapps, it´s only half the fun

Would anyone believe me if I claim it is a money saving method ?
Rather than purchasing two kits, I build this one twice.

> Rather than purchasing two kits, I build this one twice.



Adrian.

Having used the good weather recently to work on the garden (at present renewing the lawn which is taking a lot of time and effort), did further work on the KöTi today, attacking the inside circumference of the sprocket rings with 80 grit wet & dry so they would fit on the sprocket carrier.
The build manual states "One tooth on each ring has a small dot machined on it. The tooth with the dot must be fit to the same hole on the sprocket centre each side"

Why must or should the dots be aligned ? I can see no reason for it as long as the teeth line up.

Chieftain, Challenger 1 and Challenger 2 all had sprocket rings with a dot machined into one of the teeth. It was not an alignment marking but a wear marking. The leading edge of the sprocket tooth naturally wore down faster than the trailing edge. When it had worn down to the "dot", the sprocket rings were "reversed" (switched between inside and outside)to get more life out of them. When they had worn down to the dot again, then they were considered worn out and had to be replaced.

Hi Mark
I think you will find that if you don't align the dots the sprocket teeth will not be properly aligned.
Regards
Steve

As they are supplied as four sprocket rings and not as two matched pairs, how do you come to the idea that the dots have to be lined up ?

It's a while since I put a Kingtiger sprocket together but if I remember correctly it's because there is a different number of sprocket teeth to attachment holes and the teeth will not align at any location.
I am sure Mark would not have put the indentations in the sprocket rings if it was not important.
Regards
Steve

Lots of fun and dirty fingers this evening. Just like fixing full scale tanks