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Hey, Guys,
I just opened my mid production Tiger kit and was surprised to find rubber wheels. Weren't the steel wheels one of the defining characteristics of a Mid?

The instructions clearly show the rubber wheels, so maybe I was just confused, So forgive my ignorance on this.

Either way it might get me out of zimmerite.I understand there were a few early mids in SS units that missed it.

My wife freaked when she realized how big this thing is.

Thanks in advance.

Late Tigers are the ones without the visible rubber tyres.

Initial, Early and Mid Production Tigers all had plain dished wheels with visible tyres.

There's probably some overlap, but that's the basic difference.

Adrian.

Early to early mid = rubber tyres on wheels
Late Mid to late = steel road wheels

Depends what the kit was based on and what the kit inclueds ie smoke dischargers one bosch light or two on the deck etc many tell tell signs to tell if its
a early mid or a late mid

Yeah...I realized that after my post. I don't know why I got that in my head.

I am in my first initial panic and confusion period. Searching through all of the build photos on the forum trying to see how things actually fit.

Stuck on the first step. Trying to figure out how Ce270 is used to fit the suspension bar to the hull plate.

Figured it out.
From reading the forum it seems a lot of people build these models and then prime them while others fit take apart and prime before locking them down.
Which do you guys prefer?

I am really kind of stunned how easily it slides together once I got my head straight.
No filing or forcing anything.

It's worth trial fitting first. There are usually a few corners that need filing to get a good fit. One you are happy take apart and prime with etch primer. This ensures no untreated metal. When assembling the hull and turret, loosely tighten all the screws the gradually tighten each in turn. This will pull it together nicely.

Gentlemen,
Everything is progressing smoothly, (especially now that I have some bins to sort my nuts and screws)

One thing I have a 1/4 inch gap were the upperfront meets the lower front. IT would appear the only solution is to bevel the bottom of the upper front by something less than 45degrees. Does that seem right?

I know when I was assembling my hulls the corners on some of the hull plates were rounded. This prevented a close fit. If this is the case just use a square file to square the corners. Are the screws locating correctly? If you try to close this gap make sure you do not create a new gap on the next level up. 1/4 inch seems to be a bigger gap than I remember. Sometimes a little filing is necessary.

I was thinking I had something backwards. I reassembled it. The top front plate needs to be beveled to close the gap. I am going to put the floor back on and try to think around it before I start filing.
I am going to bet that I am wrong before I start hacking at armortek's work with a file.

Looking back over my photos I think there was a small gap. If you close this too much you might create a new gap where the fromt plate with drivers viewport meets. I would go the next stage to see how much you can adjust before filing away too much.

See the gap visible on my hull in the photo.

I ground it to a 45 and it fit perfectly. I will send some pics when they load. I am having a devil of a time figuring out the panier floor.I cant seem to find the nuts that go with the m3-10s. Do you have any more assembly pics from that stage? I am scouring the internet now.

Here is where I am now.

John, once I have this box put together correctly, Is there any reason not to have it welded in place and just ditch these screws?

Are they not just regular m3 nuts. I think the fasteners were dome head. I prefer to have the option to take the hull apart again for refurbishment if necessary.