Armortek

G'day,

I want to be able to switch the power on/off via an external switch as opposed to the on/off system via the power supply module inside the tank which is the current set up.

Any suggestion on how to re-route the power switch so that I don't have to dig around through hatches or small holes. I was thinking of using a rotary switch.

Thanks guys.
Ray

Hi Ray,

I did this on my Panzer III, I just used a push button switch and extended the connections from the switch in the power supply, it involves some soldering. The switch just needs to be single way and single pole and obviously has to be non latching. Any more info let me know.

Dennis.

I've done the same as Dennis for the BARV and can confirm that it works a treat.

It's worth noting that the Power Module remains powered even when switched off, so it's worth having a nice big physical switch in the battery line somewhere, so that you can isolate the battery completely.

Adrian.

G'day Guys,

Thanks for your responses. Are you saying I need to remove the circled switch and re-solder wires to another switch. That's the way I understand what you've written.
Picture below.

Thanks
Ray

You don't need to remove the switch, just solder the new one in parallel across the existing one. Then you can easily return it to "stock" condition should you need to.

Adrian.

You mean like this picture..................

Yep just like that.

Dennis.

Thanks a million. Is there anything I shouldn't use or do?

Ray

As long as the push button switch is non latching and push to make. Current is very small so doesn't need to be a big switch.

Dennis.

Following Dennis and others inspiration I have fitted auxiliary non-latching switches to my Tanks so as to have an easy access to turning the power off by being able to use a smaller and more convenient hatch. Also I have put in an additional, remote 'Power On LED warning light' by the switch.
I have had the embarrassment of failing to turn the Tank off before the Transmitter happen more often than never
It is quite straight forward to do, I use a spare servo lead cut in two,so that a plug and socket is included to make working on the wiring system easier, as items can be then easily disengaged.
Steve

http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/viewt ... 884#p27884U

I see your power module even has a jumper where mine only had holes. Use it for a solder free connection!

Cheers,
/Chris

Thanks Chris for 'Bumping' the thread. I hope it will prove useful with its different solutions to the question. Steve

thanks for the help. i've mounted the new switch at the rear.