Motion pack installaition

[mick whittingham]

Hi all,

the time has come for me to start planning installation of the motion pack on my Cent.

I have ordered the Armortek parts and before the arrive I am doing a little light research.

If anyone has any tips or insights into the fitting of the centurion motion and sound packs and especially the battery and electrical installation I would love to hear them.

As a first time builder and electrical novice I will need all the help I can get to make sure I don't drop any clangers.

Should I get hold of a couple of 12v batteries to run the motion on the bench as I install it or wait until its in to power up?

What size of running batteries do I need to give me a decent level of performance and range, I don't envisage running for hours at a time but how do I work out what batteries will perform best.

If anyone can sign post me to any good threads on the forum then please feel free to do so.

Many thanks and best regards, Mick

[Kevin Hunter]

Hi Mick, how are you?
I was a complete novice too when it came to installing the motion kit, but for the most part it was all straightforward. The bit I found most difficult was installing the elevation bracket, elevation motor, switches and the recoil servo inside the turret (in fact I still am struggling but while it's cold I haven't been near the shed in a while). There isn't much room in there for my big ham fists!
As regards batteries, you will need them early as it's recommended you assemble and bench test everything before installation. That also helped me get to understand which modules plug into which and then you can visualize possible layouts. There is plenty of advice in the forum about batteries, and a supplier listed who give a discount for Armortek customers. Their service was first class, even to the islands.
As you know there are some incredibly experienced modellers on here, and most of them have installed more than one set of motion kits....... I am sure you will get plenty of other info and advice on this topic. With that, and your own obvious skills, I reckon you'll breeze through it.
Regards
Kevin

[sean kerambrun]

Hi mick,

Definitely get it working on the bench..

I have 2 x 12v 20ah sealed batteries for the tank and 1 12v 12ah for animatronics. I hope they a big enough I have only just started testing

Work out everything you want to put in the tank. I had to allow space for my driver for example.

The speakers are between the motors on a plate so I can easily remove them for servicing the motors.

Cheers

Sean

[Ray Brown]

g'day. i've put my batteries down front for now which gives it nice balance with motors at rear and turret sitting middle. i've tucked the speakers down under the front glacis which gives realistic sound distribution, i.e. as it drives toward you the sound builds up and is loudest when passing and driving away.

i'll post some more shortly.

[sean kerambrun]

Hi Ray,

Nice setup. It is amazing how many different ways of laying out all the bits

Cheers

Sean

[mick whittingham]

Hi all,

yes its amazing how many different ways there are of installing things. I managed to get everything wired and working on the bench and spent a little time labeling every socket and wire so that fitting it back together will be easier.

I am going to make a start on fitting the motors and other "fixed" items like the speakers before sorting the modules.

Is there any problem in extending any of the wiring to suit (for example the speaker wires extended to the front of the hull).

I also want to fit the receiver in a sealed box and wondered about the aerial, is there a good or bad place to site it within the hull? I am used to the old radio sets with wire antena that you pushed into a straw.

Thanks for the posts so far but keep them coming.

Mick

[sean kerambrun]

Hi mick,

Most wires can be extended or replaced with longer wires is always my preference.

Sealed is not a problem as long as it is not metal .. Ie plasticis fine. 2.4ghz is not as sensitive as the old radios but done bury it in the bottom is my suggestion..

The reason I put the speakers at the back was the engine covers have gaps in them to let the sound out

Sean

[Ray Brown]

[mick whittingham]

Hi all,

I am having great fun working out where to put everything, I have managed to have a couple of false starts where I have moved modules into more accessible places but I am getting there.

When things take a bit more shape I will take some photo's. I have "stacked" my Auxiliary and speed control modules by making some support legs and mounted this assembly on a floating table mounted on rubber vibration mounts. The power supply module is in the suggested position with a main power isolator switch. The amplifier module is beneath the engine vent hatches which gives me access to the volume switch and the programming switch if ever needed (I drilled a hole in the cover and put a blanking grommet in to allow me to press the switch with a cocktail stick without having to remove the cover).

The speakers are currently between the motors so that they fire straight up into the engine hatches, hopefully giving a good sound output. I can move them though if they are not right where they are.

Just playing with the radio equipment too and have invested in a spring return for the left throttle lever on my handset and a set of extension leads which have allowed me to sit the receiver in a plastic project box with the antenna wires set in plastic tubes at 90 degrees as suggested by Futaba.

Hope all are going well, can't wait to see her move.

Best regards, Mick

[Dennis Jones]

Hi Mick,

Just make sure that main isolator switch will handle at least 30 - 40 amps. I normally use a heavy duty relay which means you can use a smaller switch with it.

Dennis.

[mick whittingham]

Hi Dennis,

Electrical work is a bit of a dark art to me so if you have and advice on fitting a relay into the power feed line I would be much obliged. The switch I have is a double pole single throw rated at 25 amp from maplin. I intended to just splice it into the main battery cables to use as a dead switch so that the battery is isolated, ie not actually switching current, or am I being naïve?

Regards,

mick

[Steve Stuart]

Hi Mick
Can I refer you to my post in my Comet to Cromwell Topic where I "I have fitted a remote Momentary Switch and Power on Light for the Power Supply Model and using the Component Shops General Purpose Voltage Meter created a means of telling when the battery is switched on. I have fitted a charging socket and a Toggle switch to turn the charge circuit or the power circuit on and have the tank turned completely off. All for safety and to avoid embarrassing mistakes "
I placed this in a side locker for easy and quick access to provide for extra security.
As an aside, turning the power supply completely off does seem to preserve charge in the batteries well. I am not an expert at all but this set up seems to work well, and I am open to better ways of doing things!
Steve

[Dennis Jones]

Hi Mick,

If you want to stick with the switch you can strap the 2 poles together as shown in diag below. This will increase capacity of the switch to 50 amps. You only need to wire the switch in the positive lead as that is sufficient to disable the supply to the tank.

Dennis

[mick whittingham]

Hi all,

been busy sorting out the optimum positioning for my installation and I think I am settled with the layout I now have.

Hopefully a couple of images will show the way I have put the major components in place, nothing is fixed yet so if anyone has any opinion on something being wrong I can move things around till I am 100% happy.

Under the engine deck

Front view of Stacked modules

The batteries can sit quite well forward in the hull to balance the rear load and I seem to have plenty of space for my proposed first person view gear.

More later, Mick

[mick whittingham]

Hi all,

I have been playing with the gun mount and have made a counter balance weight to off set the weight of the barrel when being operated by the leadscrew arrangement.

I am not sure if I needed to but the barrel seems to elevate and depress much more smoothly now that it is balancing.

I am not using the recoil facility so fitting an arm and counter weight was relatively easy. If anyone wants to do similar I can post details of the modification with weights etc.

Regards,

mick