Centurion #18

[Armortek]

Hi Kevin

Once assembled almost all of the axle is not exposed. Only the large diameter central collar remains visible and open to the elements. You can paint this using a metal primer and top coat after assembly to protect it.

Mark

[Kevin Hunter]

Making steady, if erratic, progress with my Cent, and really beginning to enjoy it now. I'm all over the place, building sub assemblies while other parts are painted. I'm concentrating on the hull and its a sort of organised chaos! Hopefully things will suddenly all gel together.
I have a club deadline to finish the cent for our local show but don't want to rush it. I foresee some retro detailing later in the year.
Still find some aspects daunting, but learning little things all the time from the collective wisdom here in the forum (not to mention a little help from Gill and Mark), so thanks to all of you helping us newbies.
My latest dilemma concerns grab handles on the rear deck hatches. There are 4 holes in each hatch plate for the 2 hinges, and 2 holes for the bumper frame. Then there is a single hole offset left (viewed from above rear). There are no holes for the handles, and what is the single hole for?
Hopefully someone knows the answers...
Thanks
Kevin

[paul&robinmargle]

Hi Kevin,

Nothing wrong with doing different bits here and there, it eventually all gets done - hopefully.

The rear engine hatch handles will need drilling, we received some measurements from Armortek (but we'd already fitted them anyway). Looking at pictures, the extra hole seems to be a key hole - just in case someone tries to steal your engine

Robin

[Kevin Hunter]

Thanks Robin
I'll work out placing of handles and drill as necessary. No big deal even for me
If you weren't sure, you're right about the odd holes. Managed to get to Bovvy yesterday on the way down to visit family in Devon, and they contain a recessed square un/locking "key", which I guess turned with a box spanner or socket.
Have some pics which will post when i get the, off the camera. Should be easily replicated depending on your hunger for detail.
Thanks again
Kevin

[mick whittingham]

Hi,

the hole in the engine cover is for a square drive key and I managed to make up five of them one for each hatch. I used brass rod, turned to create the collar and square brass bar to make the key drive which I silver soldered in place. They look good even though they are not functional. I will snap some photo's if you want to see the effect.

Regards,

mick

[mick whittingham]

Hi I took a snap of the engine cover lock just for your information. Hope it looks like the original you had in mind.

Regards, Mick

[Kevin Hunter]

Mick, thanks very much for posting the picture. It looks spot on to me.
Well done
Regards
Kevin

[Kevin Hunter]

Dear all
Minor technical query for anyone who may know? Assembling the wheels - unless I'm missing something, the build manual (page 16) shows M3 nut, but no corresponding M3 bolt. Anyone know the length?
Many thanks
Kevin

And another one while we're at it please...... Idler brackets to lower front hull plate? Build manual shows M3 nuts but not which size bolt. Anyone know?
Cheers

[Kevin Hunter]

Seems quiet out there in tank land........

Another query if I may - any idea how much Loctite I need to bond road wheel and roller tyres to their respective wheels? I guess 1 20gm bottle isn't enough - will 2 do the job?

As I have to source this by mail order form the UK, the cost is such that I would prefer not to over order. If I under order I get stung for a second set of P&P.

Ho hum..... the joys of living in an island paradise!

still looking for info re the bolts in my last post.....

Thanks all

Kevin

[Armortek]

Hi Kevin
We are here at War and Peace and I have few people here to try to help so here goes.
For the wheel assembly M3 x 12 cap heads,
idler Bracket to hull plate M3 x 20 hex
2 bottles of loctite should be ok as long as you do not get too much on your fingers!
eBay good for this
All the best from the committee of customers at war and peace!

[Kevin Hunter]

Bless you all! Thankyou.
Enjoy the sun, although to be honest I'm glad of the office air con right now.
Look forward to meeting said committee at the open day.
Cheers
Kevin

[mick whittingham]

Hi Kevin,

Just took a snap of my wheel bolts as I could not remember the length I used.

There is a flat washer on the nut side and thread lock to keep them from coming loose.

You don't want masses of thread sticking out of the nut when tight so that's the measure for the right length of stud.

I also took a pic of the idler bolts too with nyloc nuts fitted.

Hope this helps, Mick

[Kevin Hunter]

Thanks Mick, watch this space
Kevin

[Kevin Hunter]

Sorry me again! Seem to have hit a snag.
Tried attaching idler bracket using M3x20 hex bolts as suggested but ran into a few issues. See picture:

right hand nut in middle row required a tiny bit of the side plate to be drilled, just enough so that the nut could get onto the bolt.

right hand nut in top row prevents the glacis plate from fitting properly

I could only find 12 M3x20 bolts.....and there are 18 holes!

Problems 1 & 2 are the same on the other (right hand) side of hull



What am I doing wrong?
Thanks
Kevin

[Armortek]

Hi Kevin

The inner four holes at the top, the ones nearest the side plates, are tapped. You should use M3x16 or M6x12 hex head screws in these four positions, without nuts. This leaves 14 positions for the M3x20 hex heads, which were included with your kit. Let us know if you need some more.

Mark