Paul & Robin's Centurion

[paul&robinmargle]

So... Here we go... I think we may be the first Centurion build log

We received 4 boxes on Wednesday lunchtime. We spent a bit of time sorting through the bits and trying to get our head around the construction stages.
Yesterday we moved the hull parts to the construction area and loosely screwed them together. The plan is to build the basic hull, paint it and then add to it, I'm assuming the motion pack bits will still fit trough the engine hatches and turret ring?
Will be British 60s. We're using Halfords primer but have no idea which green - any ideas?
Today I've been tidying the edges of the tool bins and filling the gaps with Milliput, they are very cleverly folded steel. Dad has been linking the tracks - very time consuming and fiddly. They look mean

Robin
PS We got 013, I hope it's not an omen

[Stephen White]

Welcome guys, good to see the first Cent build. Good luck and enjoy it. The forum is great and will help with anything you need to know.

I'd strongly suggest you clean and paint each part before assembly. Cleaning can be just a sand over or use an acetone based cleaner, just to ensure a grease free surface. You are best to use an etch primer - Halfords do one called Upol Acid 8, although you can get a better price on the internet if you buy in bulk. If you search the forum, some members have found cheaper substitutes. For the period you're doing, a British Cent would have been painted in British Deep Bronze Green. A lot of model paint manufacturers do versions in acrylic and enamel or you could get a car paint shop to make some up. Depends how much you want to have an authentic model.

Hope you really enjoy your build.

Stephen

[sean kerambrun]

The centurion is looking good.. I am getting excited now . I can't wait for mine to arrive but I have one other (non tank) project to finish first anyway ...

Good luck with the build.. Lots of pics please

Cheers

Sean

[Kevin Hunter]

Hi Paul & Robin
Good to see you getting started. I too am new here and awaiting a Centurion which will ( probably ) reflect the same era as yours. Are you considering a particular regiment or unit as a subject or going "generic"?
Look forward to seeing many more pictures and hearing how you get on.
Regards
Kevin

[paul&robinmargle]

Hi,

Thanks for the advice haven't done anything quite like this before (just 1:35 injection plastic).
I've been cleaning with car paint preparation wipes, should I paint all mating surfaces too?
We haven't got any specific markings in mind, just to use Paul's old number plate from his REME Commer 3-ton repair truck as a tribute.

Since the last post we've been riveting...

Robin

[Stephen White]

Paul and Robin

Your tank will be better protected if you do at least etch prime the mating surfaces, particularly the steel components. One note of caution - the Workmate isn't man enough for the job once you start assembling and you really wouldn't want the hull on your feet.

A work bench is one solution but many of us have invested in an hydraulic platform. You can get them in different sizes from Axminster Tools or Clarkes. Something like this:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rc=froogle

All the best. Stephen

[michael hilton]

Hello Paul and Robin, all my metal 'parts' are cleaned with a Brillo pad, dried, and etch primed with E-Pol Acid Etch, spray. If you use a table lift, cover the table with a non slip material.....my Jagdpanther slid off on one side, metal on metal,it was an awful moment.....I will be following your build with great interest, best wishes, Mick

[Steve Stuart]

I always keep half an eye on the local skips and I have rescued a fire door. This has been cut down so it has the foot print of a tank my and then bolted to the top of my lifting table. Making a secure stable location for the tank to be driven off and off.
Now to do this I have aquired a wheel chair ramp to be able to run the tank up from the garage floor and on to the lowered table. My final item was to buy a motor cycle lift to allow me to keep the tank off its tracks and also to be able to run the tank with no danger of driving it off the table....
Steve

[sean kerambrun]

Hi guys,

I made a tank bench .. It uses a 12V linear actuator to lift the tank. This was during testing.. I have finished it now, I must upload new video.



I am going to make another one.. A little differently as you always learn as you go

Cheers

Sean

[paul&robinmargle]

Has anyone used this paint?, I suspect you can get cheaper but the colours are authentic and they say very tough:

www.militaryvehiclepaint.co.uk/

Not sure if the 3 x 400ml spray cans are enough.

More progress photos to come at the weekend.

Robin

[paul&robinmargle]

Hello all,

After a week at work I headed back to the parent's place - or the 'Centurion workshop' as I now call it
The weather has been quite bad, the hull in the shed was getting covered in condensation so we brought it in from the cold to the spare room - just temporary.

Here is 100 links

Riveted side bins

We managed to create some tools for riveting, drilled a dimple in a piece of metal to keep the domed head during the hammering. It took one of us to hold the pieces together while the other hit them.

Detailed bins

I got some Evergreen quarter round strip for the raised strip on the lids, couldn't find big enough half round
To make the handles look flattened and welded I used a small piece of plastic and some Milliput.

We found some Upol acid #8, it seemed quite runny when I tested it out, I think it needs more shaking up
It seems the same as Halfords ordinary primer, is there much difference?

Robin

[Stephen White]

Robin

Etch primer is very different from a primer. It has a combination of acid and zinc in it which chemically combines the zinc with the surface of the metal, which means it provides a much more effective bond. It has to be used on bare metal. Etch prime is intended to be applied in a very thin coat, not to build up depth. If you want a sanding surface, use an ordinary or a high build primer once the etch prime is dry.

I'd recommend using an etch prime whatever else you do. You can then build up a coat of ordinary primer which can then be sanded. If I need a textured surface, I use etch prime, followed by high build prime, with a coat of ordinary primer on top to key the base coat of colour. I then seal that with a satin clear paint so that the weathering can then sit on top.

I'll post something on my Cent thread.

Regards

Stephen

[paul&robinmargle]

We were hoping to get priming the main hull parts this weekend, but it's been a bit cold. So we did yet more riveting.
After a lot of thought I decided making workable bin catches was beyond my skill, so I'll attempt some resin casting.

the master catch

I'll also do the filler caps.

Robin

[paul&robinmargle]

Hello,

Weather's still not ideal, we've been cleaning parts and opening the holes in the rollers, very few of the shafts fitted.
Paul test built a bogey.
Today we finally got paint on, albeit just the roller houses, it feels more like we're getting somewhere.
There was a bit of a failure with my first resin mould making attempt, didn't set - have tried again. Anyone have any experience with this?

Feel free to comment on my previous work bearing in mind I'm not as advanced as most

Robin

[sean kerambrun]

Hi Robin,

You are doing great.. It is going to look awesome.

Knowledge comes with experience and time. That's how everyone starts.

I have just opened the boxes and had quick look.. I don't think the assembly will be too hard for me it is the detailing and weathering that has me thinking ......


Keep the pics coming..