Marcel, Tim, and others,
I was installing the rear idler shafts in my Panther, and I realized something that Marcel touched on in the beginning of this post. That is there is an alarming amount of clearance between the rear idler shaft and the brass idler bearing. I measured .020" (0.5mm) between shaft and bearing on my parts. This in my opinion is way too much gap, and could be a contributing source of the track shedding.

This amount of clearance could potentially translate into 1-2mm of movement at the idler wheel edge when the track is under extreme tension (i.e. during a turn).
A smooth running track (or conveyor belt) depends on the drive wheel and idler wheel being perfectly parallel with each other and aligned side to side. As you increase the tension in the track, the force from the track will try and make the excess gap (between idler shaft and idler bearing) as big as possible - basically pulling the idler wheel toward the front of the tank - and no longer parallel with the drive wheel. Since the idler is no longer parallel the oncoming track teeth will attempt to "climb" over the tilted idler wheel. Bingo, now you have a shedding track.
The internal track tensioning screw and mechanism may take up (reduce) some of this clearance problem. But I think something needs to be done to reduce the excess clearance at the source - the shaft and idler bearing -reducing the clearance between these two parts cannot hurt anything. The idler shaft within the bearing should be a very snug fit, with just enough clearance (.005"or so) to allow the idler shaft to rotate, but with very little front to back play.
Short of remaking the idler bearing, I came up with an idea.

I just happened to have some .008" (.20mm) tin sheet in my shop. Brass would be better, but tin is a fair bearing surface as well. I cut a piece slightly less than the width of the idler bearing and about 2.3" (58.4mm) long. Then roll it into a tube and slip it onto the idler shaft. Slide the shaft and shim into the bearing. It should now be a nice snug fit. It doesn't have to glued in or anything as it is just "taking up space". Voila, very little front to back play and a good snug fit.
Time will tell if this "shim" is a fix or not, but the fit of the idler shaft to the idler bearing is a lot better with the shim, and definately cannot hurt the performance of the track under tension.
One final thing, it wouldn't hurt to put a little grease on the exposed parts (non-painted) steel idler shaft, or completly paint the idler shaft to prevent rust. The shim is now the bearing surface, so the idler shaft can be completely painted..
If you have the material its an easy thing to make and install the shims. You guys may want to try this out on your Panther tanks to see if it helps,
-Bob
