I will be using a futaba S3306 1/4 scale servo for my Tiger 1 recoil system, Does anybody know how many amps one of these pulls under load. The reason i ask is that i need to power it through a BEC and would like to find the most suitable size.
BEC spec = input voltage 24v
output voltage = 6v
max output amps = ?
Regards
Steve
S3306 servo
-
Steve Norris
- Posts: 1225
- Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:42 am
- Location: Manchester
- Has liked: 8 times
- Been liked: 688 times
-
Adrian Harris
- Posts: 5067
- Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:46 pm
- Location: Berkshire (UK)
- Has liked: 1384 times
- Been liked: 1580 times
-
Steve Norris
- Posts: 1225
- Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:42 am
- Location: Manchester
- Has liked: 8 times
- Been liked: 688 times
-
Jim Fowler
- Posts: 279
- Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2008 1:01 am
- Location: Grafton, OH - USA
Steve,
First, thank you for you kind words on my recoil article.
As I too use a Hitec, I am guessing, but I planning for 1.8-2 Amps is right. But, the key to a good recoil is allowing barrel to slide with as little resistance as possible - at least that is what I found.
The breech block I made for my P3 is aluminum; but, it has a teflon sleeve. The bolt is actually stainless steel that was highly polished. Its heavey, but glides easily on the teflon.
With no load, my Hitec servo draws about 780 mA or 0.78 Amps (when I initially tested it out of the box, it was drawing .85 mA - its broke in now I guess). But under the load of recoiling the barrel, it draws 1100 mA or 1.1 Amps.
Where I had the hardest time was actually with Armortek’s barrel (CL0412), barrel rear (CL0411). I can't speak for all, but these item in Kit #016 were not made true. When you roll #016's barrel across a table, it reminds you of an old, wicked pool stick.... In all fairness, Mark designed this barrel assembly as "Static" components; and uses as designed, I think it would be fine.
But, what became clear to me is that my recoil mechanism's design had to either incorporate a barrel rear (CL0411) that either had to be lined with teflon or similar for least resistical contact or provide for no contact at all between the barrel and the barrel rear - I opted for no contact as I think it look more realistic; and I noted that the gap between the real ones on disply at Ft Knox had enough distance between to slip my little finger down...
I also need to through in one additional design aspect - I use two small set screws on the bottom of the Panzer III's gun base
(CL0408) to fix the barrel rear in place - this allows the barrel rear to be removed simply
I would like to take all the credit for the recoil mechanism picture in the recoil article; but, the trueth is that I got the idea mainly from Bevan at Cactus Tracks - he sold me one of his stuart barrel assemblies and told me about using the RCTANK HOBBY system for it - I just adapted it to my Panzer III effort - just as you are adapting it to your Tiger.
37mm to 50mm to 88mm - as in WWII, we are up-gunning a good idea.
I hope this is of some help.
First, thank you for you kind words on my recoil article.
As I too use a Hitec, I am guessing, but I planning for 1.8-2 Amps is right. But, the key to a good recoil is allowing barrel to slide with as little resistance as possible - at least that is what I found.
The breech block I made for my P3 is aluminum; but, it has a teflon sleeve. The bolt is actually stainless steel that was highly polished. Its heavey, but glides easily on the teflon.
With no load, my Hitec servo draws about 780 mA or 0.78 Amps (when I initially tested it out of the box, it was drawing .85 mA - its broke in now I guess). But under the load of recoiling the barrel, it draws 1100 mA or 1.1 Amps.
Where I had the hardest time was actually with Armortek’s barrel (CL0412), barrel rear (CL0411). I can't speak for all, but these item in Kit #016 were not made true. When you roll #016's barrel across a table, it reminds you of an old, wicked pool stick.... In all fairness, Mark designed this barrel assembly as "Static" components; and uses as designed, I think it would be fine.
But, what became clear to me is that my recoil mechanism's design had to either incorporate a barrel rear (CL0411) that either had to be lined with teflon or similar for least resistical contact or provide for no contact at all between the barrel and the barrel rear - I opted for no contact as I think it look more realistic; and I noted that the gap between the real ones on disply at Ft Knox had enough distance between to slip my little finger down...
I also need to through in one additional design aspect - I use two small set screws on the bottom of the Panzer III's gun base
(CL0408) to fix the barrel rear in place - this allows the barrel rear to be removed simply
I would like to take all the credit for the recoil mechanism picture in the recoil article; but, the trueth is that I got the idea mainly from Bevan at Cactus Tracks - he sold me one of his stuart barrel assemblies and told me about using the RCTANK HOBBY system for it - I just adapted it to my Panzer III effort - just as you are adapting it to your Tiger.
37mm to 50mm to 88mm - as in WWII, we are up-gunning a good idea.
I hope this is of some help.
Thanks,
Jim
Jim