Hi guys,
Is this acceptable, any plus or minus’s.
Clear pipes don’t look the best.
Thanks Martin.
Smoke units
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- John Clarke
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Re: Smoke units
Looks pretty good to me, although copper pipe will warm up slower than Plastic pipe in a colder environment. But I guess it would be marginal.
On another topic, Shouldn't the belt tensioner bearing be on the flat side of the belt. Or is there a toothed wheel on the tensioner shaft.

On another topic, Shouldn't the belt tensioner bearing be on the flat side of the belt. Or is there a toothed wheel on the tensioner shaft.

Oh Man, I only ride em I don't know what makes them work,
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Re: Smoke units
Good point, didn’t really think about that. Makes sense now you point it out. And it would be easier to tension.
Get then spanner’s out Martin.
Cheers.
Get then spanner’s out Martin.
Cheers.
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Re: Smoke units
Hello
along with John's remark on longer time to heat the copper pipe in cold environment, it will also "draw" some heat whatever the outside temperature, leading to condensation of the smoke in the pipe
If you trully want to use those pipes, might be interesting to insulate them (and it will also reduce heat in the "engine room") as seems there is quite a good length of piping
Cheers
along with John's remark on longer time to heat the copper pipe in cold environment, it will also "draw" some heat whatever the outside temperature, leading to condensation of the smoke in the pipe
If you trully want to use those pipes, might be interesting to insulate them (and it will also reduce heat in the "engine room") as seems there is quite a good length of piping
Cheers
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Re: Smoke units
That looks better Martin,
I don't know if Armortek gives advice on tension in the instructions.
But if it we're me, don't tension twang tight, you should be able to get a little half twist on the belt on the longest section opposite the tensioner with a "reasonable" amount of effort. Or move the belt a certain distance inwards with the same "reasonable" amount of effort. And what is a reasonable amount of effort? Well that then depends who's applying the reasonable amount of effort. Superman or Twiggy?
But it's very important the belt is not too tight, otherwise something going to give up and may not be the belt.
I used to use harmonic's sensor device at my last works, (calibrated with a tuning fork). We also used a type of fisherman's scale measuring the distance drawn for a certain weight on the scale.
It was so much better than the "With a reasonable amount of effort" plan, but you use what you've got.
I like the polished pipes, I would have suggested an oil mat around the smokers. But with so many moving parts, not a good idea
Ps no loose wiring either

But if it we're me, don't tension twang tight, you should be able to get a little half twist on the belt on the longest section opposite the tensioner with a "reasonable" amount of effort. Or move the belt a certain distance inwards with the same "reasonable" amount of effort. And what is a reasonable amount of effort? Well that then depends who's applying the reasonable amount of effort. Superman or Twiggy?
But it's very important the belt is not too tight, otherwise something going to give up and may not be the belt.
I used to use harmonic's sensor device at my last works, (calibrated with a tuning fork). We also used a type of fisherman's scale measuring the distance drawn for a certain weight on the scale.
It was so much better than the "With a reasonable amount of effort" plan, but you use what you've got.
I like the polished pipes, I would have suggested an oil mat around the smokers. But with so many moving parts, not a good idea

Ps no loose wiring either
Oh Man, I only ride em I don't know what makes them work,
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Re: Smoke units
Hi Martin
I used copper connections in my Tiger, you need to seal each connection, especially the ones attached to the smoke unit. I didn't seal mine correctly and had oil residue over quite a large area.
Regards
Gary
I used copper connections in my Tiger, you need to seal each connection, especially the ones attached to the smoke unit. I didn't seal mine correctly and had oil residue over quite a large area.
Regards
Gary
2021 Late Tiger 1 Abteilung 301 (Funklenk), 2022 Churchill Mk3 AVRE, 2x Czech Hedgehogs, 2024 Triple span Bailey Bridge, M26 Pershing, 17 Pounder and Limber.
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Re: Smoke units
As pointed our above - copper is a great conductor of heat and will cool the smoke being generated. This will result in condensation inside the tubes and (potentially) a reduced volume of smoke. The effects will be most visible in colder weather.
This is why we have predominately plastic pipes - but your set up does look good.
Kian
This is why we have predominately plastic pipes - but your set up does look good.
Kian
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Re: Smoke units
Quite right - belt should not be too tight. We do provide guidance in the build manuals.John Clarke wrote: ↑Sun Aug 04, 2024 8:48 pmThat looks better Martin,I don't know if Armortek gives advice on tension in the instructions.
But if it we're me, don't tension twang tight .......
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Re: Smoke units
Hello
and by the way, (but i think you've already modified it) the wire for the fans seems to be clooose to belt on left motor ?
Regards
Didier
They surely will perform, but with less efficiency due to loss of T° in the pipe, so it is just a matter of performances.Martin Donnison wrote: ↑Sun Aug 04, 2024 6:34 pmFitted both copper pipes for the smokers. See you they perform. Or not.
and by the way, (but i think you've already modified it) the wire for the fans seems to be clooose to belt on left motor ?
Regards
Didier