Armortek

Hi all,
i had made some chamfers onto the road wheels to have more contact surface and more room between the horns and the wheels.
The dimensions are approx. 5mm deep ( in radial direction ) and an angle of 10 degrees.

Steen Vøler wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 18, 2020 3:21 pm

As promised some pictures

Hi Steen, thank you for the pictures, I see a brown layer between your wheel halfs. Did you put a spacer in between or is it something else I see?

Martin Hofmann wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 18, 2020 5:08 pm

Hi all,
i had made some chamfers onto the road wheels to have more contact surface and more room between the horns and the wheels.
The dimensions are approx. 5mm deep ( in radial direction ) and an angle of 10 degrees.

Hi Martin, a very solid solution, nicely done!

Roy,

Earlier, I also thought about putting a thin spacer between the wheel halves. This would provide the needed spacing for the track horns, however, it presents a new potential issue -- water and other debris might work itself into the interior of the wheel, the wheel axle, and bearings.

I prefer chamfering as you've done.

Tom

Tom OBrien wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 19, 2020 2:27 pm

Roy,

Earlier, I also thought about putting a thin spacer between the wheel halves. This would provide the needed spacing for the track horns, however, it presents a new potential issue -- water and other debris might work itself into the interior of the wheel, the wheel axle, and bearings.

I prefer chamfering as you've done.

Tom

Hi Tom, I didn't chamfer the wheel halfs, I went for the thin spacer option. I made one with the same area as the contact surfaces of the two halfs. Therefor I think the chances on extra debris in the wheels are slim, but I will see how it goes.

Chamfering is the better solution I agree, I went for a relative easy solution for now, but if it doesn't give the desired result I can always still chamfer them on the lathe.

The brown layer ist just the primer of the one wheel part. The outer part is not yet primed

Roy,

I agree. You should be fine unless you submerge the wheels in water a lot. Plus, I believe the bearings are sealed, so even it they get wet, they'd have to stay submerged before it becomes a problem.

I'm waiting for the sound and motion packs to come before doing much more with mine.

I like the way yours is coming along. The photos help a lot.

cheers... Tom

Hi Tom,

Yes I agree, I'm not planning on running the model through really wet or muddy grounds, so I think the bearings will last quite a long time.
My motion and sound packs arrived last week, first impression is that they look really good. Everything is packed very good, all components have wires and components nicely soldered on already and labeled accordingly (I'm used differently ). All fitted in sturdy casings, I must say I'm really impressed with the way it's made.
I did not power or test anything yet. I'm still busy with some spray painting right now, the temperatures are pretty high for the time of year so I took advantage of it by finishing some parts of the lower hull.

Tom OBrien wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 22, 2020 1:49 pm

...I like the way yours is coming along. The photos help a lot...

Thank you very much, glad to hear the photos are helpful, I must say that al the discussions on all threads going on here are very helpful for me too

Hi guys,

I have been working on the mudguards, and engine deck. Nice to see how it's all coming together and starting to look more and more like a StuG

Roy,

Again, thanks for the photos. They help to answer a couple of questions I had about the air intake covers (mesh) and also the material covering the mud guards.

I wasn't sure about setting the road wheel arms at a steeper angle than recommended (20-25 degrees). Yet, after installing the upper compartment and other features, it becomes apparent there is considerable weight. And this is before installing the motors, batteries, and sound apparatus. I think I might go back while I still can and re-adjust the first two road wheel arms to about 40 degrees, the middle two to 30 degrees and the rear two to 25 degrees.

Even with the batteries installed at the rear, the added weight of the motors should distribute the weight nicely.

cheers... Tom

Hi Tom,

Yves shared some usefull data on the angles, he set the front two arms at 36 degrees and the others at 30.
With full weight on they set at around 20.
Good chance these values will be typical for the StuG. Either way they are probably good values to start with.

My StuG isn’t yet set at the proper angles by the way.

Hi Roy, did you have any problems driving the pins into the hinges? Do you 'press' them in or use a hammer?

keithbraun wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 29, 2020 5:04 pm

Hi Roy, did you have any problems driving the pins into the hinges? Do you 'press' them in or use a hammer?

Hi, i started with a light small hammer to gently align the pin, once in place i pressed them in with a vise.

Are you having problems with them?

Yes, I've re-drilled and lightly hammered the pins on one hatch, seems very stiff to open. On the plus side, at least the hatches wont vibrate when the motion kit is in use.

Hello chaps, with all my hinges I run a drill through the hinge first, making sure that the steel pins fit smoothly and are not tight. You will destroy the aluminium hinge so easily otherwise. They are expensive to replace, how do I know, have a guess....Mick

Hi guys,

Well at first I thought about drilling through but i was afraid that the clearance will get too large and the pins would fall out.
How did you prevent that?

My hinges vary in stiffnes, they all do open with a bit of resistance but in my opinion not too much. Benefit of it is indeed that they won’t resonate.

How did yours break Mick? During assembly or in use later on?