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Marcus, have a look at Steve's UC thread, there are a lot of information and some photos in there from me.
Regards David.

Hi Phil,

Be careful you don't mix up part nos ER107 and ER105 top hull sides as the RHS side one (ER107) is about half an inch longer than the LHS one, I did and caused me a lot of extra work, luckily only on one model.

Dennis.

Thanks for the info Dennis things like that are easily done.

So what do you guys think of the track warping, any good? Only any good for road work as in long sweeping bends.

Hi Phil
I locked mine.
Going for a twin motor set up .
My late father drove a Universal carrier in WW2 and told me it was a pain in real life
often causing tracks to shed or break.

Regards

Derek

Hello David

Can you tell me the type of gearmotors or even the reference location that you are using on your UC?

Best regards

Markus

We now have working floating disc brakes which are proportional. Around 1 to 1.5mm of free play is needed for the floating disc to work correctly. You need to find an extra 2mm for this type of friction material and a further 1.5mm to get this lot to fit, where and how you find this 3.5mm is up to you.

Certainly looks like it has potential Phil.

Loving the honest build.
Though the milling bit is annoying to anyone without a miller unless your going to be offering a special upgrade mod if this idea's a winner.

In my own mind I'd thought of a multi disk affair rather like a motor bike clutch.
I'm interested to see how your going to protect the servo, I've noted that some builders have burnt out servo's, so I'm expecting some sort of over pressure release system. maybe?

Hi Markus, the motors came from Hobbyking and are Trackstar brushed motor 550/21T, and the gearbox came from MFA Como Drills and is reference 942D271. You will have to remove the motor supplied with the gearbox and replace it with the trackstar motor, the pinion will also need to be removed from the supplied motor and fitted to the trackstar motor and the excess length of shaft in the trackstar motor cut off. It is advisable to mark the outside of the gearbox as ithe three sections making up the gearbox will only reassemble in one position.
Hope this is helpful.

David

Hello David
Thank you very much for your efforts, you helped me a lot.
Best regards
Markus

Be careful with that system Phil, I don't think you will get enough torque from the supplied servos to stop the wheels. Also you have to be careful in that you are suppling the the servos with 7.2.volts to obtain the 35kg and they burn out much quicker that a 5 volt supply. I know I burnt out 2 trying out the same system.

Dennis.

Thanks Dennis.

Lots done this afternoon.

I've been checking the finished pitch of the track against the sprocket pcd and looking through the various builds on the forum for as much information as possible to get an idea of the problem and solution .
This is what we have found, Mike the engineer and me the grunt.
The solution is.......?

The solution is revised sprockets. I hope I don't get cancelled for suggesting this on behalf of the owners.
How about Kian offers two types of replacement sprockets, one set to match the split pin pcd ( pitch circle diameter ) and another set to match the stainless pin pcd?
I'm sure the guys would be happy to pay at cost for the parts, then everyone is happy?