Armortek

Great work Robin - coming along very nicely. I see the Workmate is hanging on in there....
Kevin

Dad says the Workmate isn't one of these cheap new ones, it's one of the originals. They don't make them like that anymore...

Robin

I have one of the originals too, so would agree with your Dad's sentiment. That said, I have received my batteries, option packs, and so on, and am very conscious of the overall weight building up. Can't remember if mine is embossed with a SWL - will have to look....
Keep up the good work.
Kevin

Hi All
The original workmate was something a lot more solid than what you and I have, a Mark 2 workmate, or later! I can remember builders coming to our house some 45 years ago with one and being very impressed, it was a lot more solid with substantial castings forming its frame work, supporting a Tiger or Centurion would be a doddle for one of those. My work mate is a bout 30 years old and is a prized possession For more information follow this link; http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T7Svu1qTNlE/T ... 600/01.JPG.
I apologise if this is off topic, but they are a brilliant invention!
All the best!
Steve

The good old Workmate We can still lift it between us with this much assembled.
I think someone mentioned it before, but we had trouble fitting the rear bogie on because the shock arm fouled the drive case. We just turned the top part 180 degrees - a simple fix: Robin

After another building session outside in the garden we worked out how to fit the sprocket taper bushes and got the tracks on. Then we squeezed all the electrics in (minus smoke and turret stuff) as neat as we could and took the basic hull for spin around the garden.
All was well until I checked the running gear and found most of the tires had fallen off We thought the cracking noise was just the suspension settling
We can only think we didn't put enough epoxy on and/or used the less strong 5 min type? We're going to find some extra strong, but it does mean jacking the hull up and undoing all the nuts on the road wheels because we glued the bearings to the shafts

Robin

Hi Robin, sorry to hear of your tyre problem. I've known it happen on the real thing so don't feel bad. There have been a number of posts about this and the standard advice is to use epoxy or Loctite 480.

Epoxy will work but unless you find one optimised for rubber to metal, the joint is going to give little shock resistance as it tends to be inflexible. This is particularly so of the shorter curing mixtures.

The alternative, Locitite 480 is designed for purpose. As the product specs state:

■For applications where shock resistance is required or shock or peel loads are present
■Ideal for bonding metal to metal, to rubber or magnets
■Good resistance in humid environments

The curing time of 20-50 secs is plenty to get the tyre fitted and secured with a cable tie if necessary. It is also black and therefore small spills don't show. The only disadvantage is that it is said to have a short shelf life once opened although I've never found it to be the case.

Hope this helps. Great to see the progress you're making.

Regards

Stephen

Hi Robin,

As I have said in previous posts, I have always used epoxy but only Araldite 24 hour the 5 min and non Araldite is no good as some friends of mine will agree as theirs came off when using 5 min and a cheap substitute.

Dennis.

Paul / Robin - you must be choked having made such good progress. Hope you can resolve the issue quickly and get back on track ( no pun intended )
Good luck
Kevin

Thanks for all the advice. We bought some Araldite 'Standard' Ultra Strong (full strength 14 hours) and Evo-stick Serious Glue (full strength 24 hours and flexible bond) to try tomorrow on the tyres (not tires, I thing my spell-check was on american )
Here's a shot from last week before we installed the electrics: Robin

Hello,

After grinding off all the old glue from the wheels/tyres we used two packs of Araldite Standard and a bit of Serious glue (for gap filling). It had about five days before we set it down and drove it back outside - tyres are all still attached Fitted the engine hatches too: We've been made aware by forum member Martin that the fix for the rear shock arm doesn't work when under load, the drive case now rests on the ball and socket joint. The only thing I can think of is shortening the shock shaft as much as possible by screwing it up all the way. Does anyone else have any ideas? Unfortunately it means the rearmost road wheels have no suspension at the moment.

Robin

Paul

I have re drawn the shock arm shorter with the ball joint set at 90degrees. I am having it made at the moment, when its complete I will post a photo if it works!!.

Hi all

This is very small issue with a very simple solution for those who encounter it. Simply shorten the reach rod by about 10mm and tighten the bends in the shock lever a little. You can do this using an adjustable spanner. Reverse the ball joint for absolute maximum travel.
Not all builders will have this issue. Our control build clears easily.

Can we please ask once again, that if anyone has quality or build issues, the first place to raise them is by direct e-mail to us, not on the forum. We will always resolve any issues promptly with you, directly by e-mail.

thanks
Mark

Thanks Mark , that's our job for the weekend.

Robin

Made the recommended adjustments to the shocks, had to remove the tracks again and the outer drive case: We bent the arm almost 45 degrees and shortened the rod all the way, clears now and hopefully that's mobility sorted.

I added some stops for the tools, I shortened the posts and added plates on top to prevent the pick heads swinging about: I noticed slight wear on the motor sprocket, just dents where the two wheels interact - is this normal? Robin