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I used some epoxy base paste to fill all the edges and cut-outs on the lower hull. After sanding, another coat of etching primer was applied.

Always wondering what these two holes for? Finally realised they are for track pin deflector. Thanks Vince.

Track pin deflector.

Vince

I found the following pictures on Ebay, The Armortek provided deflector does has a different shape. I also replaced the 3mm counter sunk with 4mm and threaded the holes on hull. Just debating now if I will design and machine new deflectors or just retain the original ones.

Some more progress. I designed the scalloped filets (not sure about the name) using Solidworks and 3D printed few sets.
The rivets are copper with 2mm shank.

For the scale weld lines, I first tested with Milliput by just didn't do it for me, too time consuming!
I instead opted to use Smooth-On Free Form Air, it's an epoxy dough/paste similar to Milliput but softer during mixing. I diluted a small amount of 99% Isopropyl alcohol in the mixed dough to soften it enough for a syringe application. I was able to get a smooth and consistent stream of dough out of the syringe and the application was done quickly. Once cured for about 2 to 3 hrs, I used the brass tube to replicated the weld spots.

As noted previously, my Tiger is missing the front gear case shields and the angular plates that fit on the other side of the front hull. Using some picture on the forum I started to work on the plates and was able to reconstitute the shape in Solidworks. An initial cardboard cutout was using for test fit then followed with a 3D printed part. I am planning to machine the aluminum plates tomorrow.

Hi Bruno,
Good work. My research suggests that there are only 5 studs that pass through the protector plate. The lowest one, nearest the front plate, is too close to allow for the milled pockets that protects the nuts. See image below from PanzerBasics TigerI&II CD set. Alastair

Good point!
Just did some more digging on the shape, there is actually no cut out on the top as the plate tapper directly to the front hull. I also guessed about 5mm thick but it seems to be a lot thinner as well.

Updated part design

Ran out of time last weekend to machine the plates but finally got them almost done.

Applause, applause, applause!

I had to take a break with the project since my last post, work kept me busy so as house projects.
Since then I primed the upper deck

Red oxide applied on the hull but kept the bottom plate off, just easier to work on the suspension bars

Setup all the suspension arms in order to proceed with assembly