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Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:39 am
by paul&robinmargle
Hi Kevin,
We went for the ones recommended by Armortek from
www.hardwarexpress.co.uk
Check out this thread:
http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/viewt ... f=2&t=1430
We got two 12v 24Ah and the recommended charger:
http://www.hardwarexpress.co.uk/evh1224 ... 2338-p.asp
Got 10% off with the code too.
Robin
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 9:11 pm
by paul&robinmargle
We tested out the electronics on the floor today, carefully sorting out the cables. The sounds are great
. I'd like to try 2 stick control, I think I can work out how to programme the Futaba 7C, but the problem I have is the left stick is ratcheted. There are instructions on how to swap the sticks around but it's not possible to have them both sprung because there aren't enough springs. I wonder is it possible to obtain the extra parts?
Robin
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 9:24 pm
by Adrian Harris
The part code you require for the 7C is Y-MA8036. Costs about 3 quid.
Adrian.
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 10:07 am
by michael hilton
Hello I changed to two stick control, easy mod, instructions come with the parts, takes about 20 minutes. I found the track control easier. If things go wrong just let go of the sticks and the tank stops, easy....Mick
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 1:03 pm
by paul&robinmargle
Thanks for the help guys, we'll try a local R/C shop.
We built up the bogies:
They just need a paint touch up. I added some plates to the sides of the middle bogies with bolts through the holes that are already there. That kilopoise is sticky stuff and always finds it's way onto your fingers
- the painted drive case
I'm now going to concentrate on the hull to get it ready to paint and receive the electrics.
Robin
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 1:33 pm
by paul&robinmargle
It was more difficult than I thought to even find a R/C shop, a couple we found have shut down only recently
. Then we found one had moved to an industrial unit nearby so ordered from them.
I finished off the welds on the hull and found a couple more parts I want to add before the final paint coat - the exhaust elbows and side rails that hold the rubber bumpers.
Robin
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 11:21 am
by paul&robinmargle
We spent some time pondering over the Cent 1:1 last Sunday at Duxford, here are a couple of shots of the areas I'm working on at the moment:
- Bumper mounts
- Exhaust shoulder
I tried to change the shape a bit with milliput, a little more pointed at the front.
We're still on track to paint the hull over Easter.
Robin
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 8:21 pm
by paul&robinmargle
I created some extra parts for the bumper mounts:
Robin
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 4:16 pm
by paul&robinmargle
Hello,
Had some time off this week hoping to paint the hull - a significant step forward. I expected spring to be here by now
Instead I've been doing the engine deck hatches.
- deck
- more deck
We found the rear stretcher needed some filing to clear the hinge screws:
- hatch fitting
Rear side lights (and headlights) are fitted, carved from plastic, holes drilled for the led. I'm not sure I quite captured the shape though:
Robin
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:51 pm
by paul&robinmargle
Did some painting this weekend, perfect weather. I've hinged the front and rear engine deck hatches together in pairs for painting, just line up the hinge centres and glue when ready.
We got the mudguards out of the box and filled the gaps where they are folded with liquid metal, it retains it's flexibility which will hopefully stop it cracking if we drive into something
We found the rear mounting hole was missing on both of them - easily drilled.
Paul has been remaking the tool handles out of pine dowel, the pick handles (Armorpax or home-made) don't really fit in the tool clamps though. We eventually found the five small pins to pivot the tool bracket eye-bolts, no mention in the instructions.
We've decided to fix the deck plate/turret ring permanently, there's plenty of room to get the electrics, etc. in/out and it means I can hide the fixings.
No pictures this week, I'll update next week.
Robin
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 7:37 pm
by paul&robinmargle
We managed to squeeze the pick handles into the brackets:
- Pick Handles
The pick heads are very loose, I'll add some guides to stop them swinging about (we also shortened the lugs). Likewise the other tools need stops to stop them sliding out.
Paul's new shovel/hammer handles:
- Shovels
I have since turned the pry bar brackets 180 after studying photos. We found the wing nuts could only screw on a couple of turns.
I've been concentrating on the driver hatch surroundings:
You may be able to see the small hooks on the edge of the front plate, I assume they are to do with the windscreen/foul weather hood?
Robin
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 9:42 pm
by paul&robinmargle
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 10:34 pm
by Kevin Hunter
Great detailing Robin. Your filler caps are a credit to you. I have to say that i'm finding the skill levels on this forum truly humbling.
As an aside to you / forum at large, anyone identified an after market aerial base yet?
Cheers all
Kevin
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 2:32 pm
by paul&robinmargle
Thanks Kevin, I'm trying
We were thinking of turning the antenna bases from thick dowel...
Robin
Re: Paul & Robin's Centurion
Posted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:09 pm
by paul&robinmargle
At last (in between gusts of wind
) we are able to paint the big bits.
It's only now that I can see if some of my improvised techniques have worked.
Hopefully tomorrow the green will go on
We also sorted out the main turret parts and etched them.
Robin