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following in nicks footsteps with the scolloping removal.
before & after pre painted
my weapon of choice

Hi Ray
you have done a good job on them ,i think i should have done them the same way ,never mind end result is the is what matters always good to see the pics of what your doing ,so keep them coming .All the best ,,,,,,,,,,,,,nick

Hi Ray
just been back over your posts and hadnt seen your question on the gap in the drive housing, sorry mate, the answer is yes, i havent done it yet but was going to do what you have surgested ,two cresent pieces probably glued in place if i carnt get any bolts in . sorry i missed this first time .
regards ,,,,,,,,,,,,nick

Great work on those wheels. Nice clean finish. Did'nt think those grinders would work.

g'day & happy new year. had a hold up. went to mount road wheels only to find that the m8*8 csk bolts werent there. this was the same with the idler wheel bolts. anybodsy else missing those fasteners?

i now have to wait btill tuesday to go get some. anyway somemore pictures.

Hello Ray, following your build.....cracking work.

I did notice the Loctite around your bolts heads.....now, it may just have been my experience , but when I spray painted my Comet, the paint reacted to the Loctite....I had to make sure to clean the Loctite off, before spraying.

As I say it could possibly have been the type of paint I was using

Best wishes for the New Year....Mick

Hello Ray

There is no need to loctite the sproket screws in. You need access to the taperloc to adjust it so the track runs true down the centre. I would remove them clean all the threads out and clean the screws up or fit new ones. Also as Michael said you will get a paint reaction with the loctite.

Lee

Hi RAY
Happy new year to you
The M8X8 BOLTS you mention ,If they are for the ends of the wheel shafts to hold the wheels on CHECK THE THREDS IN THE ENDS THEY SHOULD BE M4 THREDS easy to check with any m4 bolt from the pack you will still need to get some m4 counter sunk bolts most likely i did. i have had to sorce some bolts that were missing here and their but in the main its been ok ,i im missing a machine gune barrel ,only one in the pack .Coming on nice though keep the pics coming .regards,,,,,,,,,,,,,,nick

again with many more to follow....thanks for your input and advice. this is the benefit of sharing the build.

i will make those appropriate adjustments.

nick: i also received 1 mg barrel which gill sent to me after i told her. i don't expect her to not mis-count given the numbers required. i believe that there are some typo's e.g. m8*8 csk. if we let gill know there amendments to the instructions & labels could be made if they wish. not being critical just thinking it may reduce emails with questions to gill.

working on the rear intake area now.

cheers.

HI RAY
Your the third builder (including me) that was short on machinegun barels it must get confusing putting up these kits for despach like you said ,i wonder if any body knows how many components there are in the average kit its got to be over a thousand components ,it carnt be easy keeping count. I feel very lucky i only had one to count .
all the best ,,,,,,,,,,,,nick

Glad you got sorted out with MG. maybe Gill will find spares lying around. Did you get cleaning rods? They are in some of the illustrations but not in the inventory. Same with the mantlet view port cover.

g'day. no cleaning rods or mantlet view port cover that i can find. also, i found the M4*8 csk screws for the road wheels. just a typo in the manual,

cheers

way to go ray get cracking on those wheels mate its starting to take shape now you will have the tracks on it before me
all the best,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,nick

i decided to do my fake bolts on the bogies. better late than never. problem was getting 2 or/and 2.5mm hex head bolts. i don't know if others before me have done this but i post anyway.
i got the 2.5mm screw and lightly glued the nut, 2.5mm hex, on the end. then using Mr Ryobi cutter sliced the screw in half. i then placed it into a pre-drilled wood block nut side up. then i soldered the end and when it cooled, filed it flat giving a small hex head fake bolt ready for gluinbg into the se3lected orfice.

pics in order.

final result 2.5mm fake bolts. will try smaller soon for wheel cap fake bolts..