Armortek

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Nice. as mine are still in 1000 pc's and usually I only deal With 1/16 scale tanks. is it movabel ( as in liftable) for 2 persons as it sits in Your videoclip ?

That’s a good question. I think it depends on the strength of the people. I would say two strong men yes. I would not ask a woman or child to help lift it. It is still only 100 pounds or so.

Nice videos. I like the Dragon Shermans (Tiger Food - LOL). I'm in the process of RCing one of those at the moment myself. Fun model, nice to work with a different material for a change than metal. Your tiger looks awesome - just the right amount of sag in the tracks.
Bob

Tonight I added some features to the hull and then washed the rear deck pieces.

Question; how do I prop up the visor block for the drivers port?

I was lazy and did not work on my tank this weekend. But I finished my fence posts to keep deer out of my back yard lol.

Does this count as working on my tank? Got the rest of my electronics...mounted lol



But seriously what a huge box for three option packs I am nervous to ad whats inside to my parts collection (not really) hahaha

Took the hull out for its first outdoor test run now that I finished my fence I don’t have to worry about deer scat any more.

Nice. Outside it looks so much better.

Vince

ThNks I agree it also so much more FUN!

Check out the transmitter here it is incredible. Can’t beat it.

Brian Ostlind wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 02, 2018 4:18 am

Tonight I added some features to the hull and then washed the rear deck pieces.

Question; how do I prop up the visor block for the drivers port?

Hi Brian
Here's my cent's worth, though I don't know how it all goes together.
A permanent fixture would be to drill and tap through the hull, a temporary movable fix could be to introduce a thin strip of spring steel with a slight bend in it between the hull and visor so that it holds the visor up yet allows you to push it down.

By the way, I did think of a way to keep deer out of your garden utilising your Tiger, but it might give too much recoil

Pete

Phil Woollard wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 28, 2018 7:12 pm

To line it all up , install the tracks and leave the sprocket fixing just a tad loose, all the track horns should line up in the middle of the road wheel corresponding slots, gently pull the tracks around without the key in place . Eye it all up and when your happy install the key and tighten the sprocket tapper bush, then the counter sink screw and washer. The distance of the sprocket from the hull depends on how tight the suspension arms are against the hull bushes. Theres not a lot in it but get it correct and it will run like a dream! Hope this helps regards Phil.

I've been off the forum for awhile but have jumped back in and have watched Vince's and Brian's build with great interest.

I've been having serious problems keeping the track from coming off mine. It runs OK on smooth, flat surfaces but it still de-tracks on turns. If I get any debris in the wheels at all, it de-tracks. Oh, and also on side slopes of any significance.

Everything was installed as instructed and I've experimented with fewer tracks, which helps but it's not designed for probably any fewer than 94 tracks on each side.

One thing I noticed during all of this is the idler wheel appears to sit farther outward from the hull than it should in order to line up perfectly (or even close) to the center guide teeth of the tracks. I tried adding spacers (washers) to the road wheel axles, which helped some, but it still was not enough to bring the tracks in proper alignment with the idler wheel. My next move is to remove some of the material from the idler axle so the idler wheel sits about 2mm closer to the hull. I'll see how that works.

Anyway, when i have the time, I'll post some comments from your ealier postings about the electronics.

cheers... Tom

I noticed the idler is off a hair and sometimes the guide teeth ride up on the wheels but usually drop down right away. I also considered trying to line it up.

My sprocket popped out on one side for a second but seems fine now.

Brian Ostlind wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 08, 2018 3:28 pm

I noticed the idler is off a hair and sometimes the guide teeth ride up on the wheels but usually drop down right away. I also considered trying to line it up.

My sprocket popped out on one side for a second but seems fine now.

I think if the tracks ride up onto the road wheels, it's not aligned properly between the drive sprocket and the idler wheel. It's the same problme I've had, and I think others. I'm hoping that by setting the idler wheel closer in to the hull, there should be more space for the track guides (teeth) where the idler wheel overlaps with the rear most road wheel.

My road wheels line up perfectly, so it's more than likely the idler alignment. It will be several weeks before the shop can get to it.

Your drive sprocket should be set with the key and the two locking screws. I added a pinch of locktight blue (NOT RED) to help keep the screws from coming loose. If you find you need to adjust the drive sprocket outward a tad on its axle, you can try placing a washer in there, but if all of your road wheels are lined up properly, you shouldn't have to do this. I still think the idler is the critical feature for alignment, all else being correct.

cheers... Tom

I got some new hemlock bark to drive in .