Armortek

Front...sides done....started work on arse end....mud flaps 1st as most time consuming

Hi Mark,

I'm not sure of the etiquette. OK if I copy the way you have kept your electronics tidy? Mine looks like an explosion in a wire factory.

Lovely build!

Thanks

Sam

Sam Hough wrote: ↑

Fri May 24, 2019 1:01 pm

Hi Mark,

I'm not sure of the etiquette. OK if I copy the way you have kept your electronics tidy? Mine looks like an explosion in a wire factory.

Lovely build!

Thanks

Sam

Not at all ! be my guest

Stunning work Mark. Noticed your in Florida too. I'm in Port Saint Lucie

Greg Stephens wrote: ↑

Sun May 26, 2019 4:53 pm

Stunning work Mark. Noticed your in Florida too. I'm in Port Saint Lucie

Good ole sunny Florida...been through Port Saint Lucie a few times

Rear flaps done ...hard or silver soldered.. much stronger...glad they are done as my eyesight sucks anymore ! wish I had the sight I had 30 yrs ago....such is age

Beautiful work Mark.

Vince

Vince Cutajar wrote: ↑

Sun May 26, 2019 8:16 pm

Beautiful work Mark.

Vince

Thank you Vince ! I've been admiring your work for awhile now !

Beautiful fenders mark. You certainly set a high standard.

I tried to replicate your welds. I got maybe two that were acceptable. I am going to take a fresh stab at it today. I did have some issues with mixing, a few welds just never gelled.

Any hints for working with the loctite? None of mine were even close to your quality. I am convinced it is the way to go. It is much tougher than milliput.
The only way I have gotten good looking welds with milliput is to make cartoonish deep welds and then sand them down once cured.

Greg Stephens wrote: ↑

Mon May 27, 2019 2:10 pm

Beautiful fenders mark. You certainly set a high standard.

I tried to replicate your welds. I got maybe two that were acceptable. I am going to take a fresh stab at it today. I did have some issues with mixing, a few welds just never gelled.

Any hints for working with the loctite? None of mine were even close to your quality. I am convinced it is the way to go. It is much tougher than milliput.
The only way I have gotten good looking welds with milliput is to make cartoonish deep welds and then sand them down once cured.

Hi Greg..I use the loctite for the small welds ( as on the rear mudflaps I'm about to post pics of) the larger welds I use A&B epoxy putty...trick with the loctite is waiting for the correct time to texture ...varies due to temp how well mixed etc...I start playing with it at around 2 hrs ..if I texture it and it (melds) back to being smooth again I give it another hr...hope this helps you

Added welds and primered rear mud flaps...I also messed around with weathering the track cables...I like using stainless steel as one it doesn't rust... two it silver or hard solders up well ....the ferrule on track cable was silvered soldered rather then swaging. The only thing about stainless it's difficult to weather so I tried a product from Caswell...stainless steel blackener...I'm very happy with the results .. before and after pics...I will use again on the towing cables...

Very steel looking indeed!

Awesome Fenders. I managed to get mine "close" to your quality. I cheated and got a resistance soldering gun. I highly recommend it.
This is quickly becoming my reference build Mark. Great work!

When I started building this kit many yrs ago there was no talk of splitting and lowering the rear deck so that the grills would sit flush...I've been on the fence about doing it as I've done so much on the rear end and would need to do it all over again...I took the plunge...rather than remove the deck support I milled the rear support in place using a router with a 1/4 " 3 flute milling bit...worked well and saved much added work.. had to remake and install sq. head bolt mounts for muffler shroud and air filters.. was tough getting the old ones off and drilling new holes 3 mm lower .. now working on rear plate