Armortek

Brian,
Re you query about fitting the sprocket hubcap - if, like the ones I had, they are hollowed out at the back then either of the following will work:

As a quick and easy fix, you could glue a 5mm caphead screw to the inside of the hubcap. To make sure the screw length and alignment is correct, assemble the sprocket onto the drive shaft in roughly the correct position using the taper lock bush. Screw a spare 5mm caphead into the drive shaft protruding just enough to keep the hubcap from fitting fully home. Then add some glue to the inside of the hub cap and push it into position. Once set and you're happy that it screws on and off OK, infill the back of the hubcap with something like car body filler to keep every thing nice and solid.

Alternatively, if you have workshop capability, then you could make up an adapter, drilled and tapped at one end to take the cone head bolt and then threaded at the other to screw into the drive shaft.

David

Thanks for the tip David!

If you have a set of M3 taps (cone bolts are M3) there is a simple way to make an adaptor. Find a piece of M5 threaded rod or stud. Cut to appropriate length. Drill one side M2.5 and tap M3.

Vince

Awesome thanks again Vince.

Today I had a chance to spray my beige Volkswagen paint on the bottom of the lower hull. It’s a three part paint with reducer and hardener added. It came out perfect on my first try. It’s a high gloss paint so i can play with top coats and weathering on it next.

Brian
The color looks great!
Bob

Robert E Morey wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 04, 2018 12:24 am

Brian
The color looks great!
Bob

Much appreciate the compliments! Thanks Bob.

Tough wait for paint to dry. But I am back on the grind...

Hi Brian,although starting my Tiger 1 build is some time off (building the Pak 43 first) did you etch the wheels before you applied Red oxide?I need to get a stock of various paints/primers/etch,before i look at starting the Tank.

I realise its not"proper",but as im building the Pak 43 as a bare metal/anodised finish,I Will need to paint the steel parts.Im thinking of doing them in gunmetal colour,just a thought but i am also thinking that when i do the Tiger i have thought about completly covering it in gunmetal paint then when i put the final colour (snow camoflage)I can rough up some of the edges and get a gunmetal coming through the snow camo....my attempt at weathering.Your comments are welcome here,the issue here is it will have etch,red oxide,gunmetal and snow camothe tank will end up around 8ft long and 5ft wide wirh all that paint on it.

Anyway yours and Vince's builds are making me itch to start building mine.Keep it up and good luck.

Regards Glen.

Hi Glen the only wheel painted was not etch primer but primed with Mission Models red oxide primer then coated in red oxide paint from them as well. I decided after going through three bottles of their small bottles to scrap it and go back to etch primer rattle cans for the remaining 31 wheels. Will look forward to following your tiger and Pak.

Ah!I did think about etch primer rattle cans.As i am new to both metal model building and spraying would you go for Acrylic or Cellulose?



Glen.

Your finish is totally a personal choice based on what works for you. My suggestion is to start practicing with scrap pieces of metal or wood. When the paint dries take it outside and look at it in the light. Once it has dried for 48 hours try scratching it with your fingernail to test the durability. This will ultimately help you decide what paint will work best.

It’s raining here so I have to paint inside. I did some small parts in my spray booth. I got a duct to suck the fumes out of the window. But no etching inside, so used some red mmp primer.

Working on the interior paint. Red oxide.

Progress;