SdKfz 251 build

[Dennis Jones]

Hi Mick,

I am using a Benedini mini which is programmed as standard 251 with all the guns and voices etc. The only thing I have done is delete the main gun sound and shift the 22 mm gun sound to a different position but I did not obtain mine from Armortek as I am not using their motion pack. I would think though that if Mark is using the Benedini sound system the it should contain all the sounds.

Dennis.

[michael hilton]

Hello Dennis and thank you for your reply. I will check that the upgrades motion/sound/smoke for the 251 are the same as supplied for the main Armortek tanks....it will give me more options if I decide to fit a Flak and M/G.....I never quite got over the 'boom' on my Comet and Jagdpanther. I also like the 'searchlight' as an option. Thanks again.....Mick

[Dennis Jones]

Hi Mick,

Just remember when riveting make sure you can get the hammer in to those awkward places and I would start on the front end first.

Dennis.

[michael hilton]

Hello Dennis, thank you for the advice...riveting, I am not looking forward to this part....however if I take my time. I had decided to start on the front end first and was wondering if the cab/engine compartment can be built before fitting to the chassis, it look like it can. It would be easier to work on the bench, (it's a kitchen table really).....Mick.

[Dennis Jones]

Hi Mick,

You can actually fit the whole body to the chassis after riveting it all. The interior cab assembly will slide in to the cab after the body is mounted on the chassis. I secured my interior of the cab with a cable tie to one of the torsion rods to stop it floating about and I also have secured the rear floor plate with a couple of long 3mm bolts to the chassis on two of the body fixing holes as the gun assembly will be mounted on it and I didn't want that floating around. When riveting make sure you cut down the rivets as they are far too long. I used a vice with a brass dolly as shown on one of my previous posts to do riveting. I have had a problem with speed controller otherwise 251 would be up and running by now.

I saw that searchlight on ebay, quite expensive the one I saw about £120 but with a bit of engineering I guess you could remote control it.

Dennis.

[michael hilton]

Hello Dennis and thank you again for the advice. I have been finding more and more options to 'load' the 251 with.....The riveting will keep my interest for some time, if I have a problem I will probably resort to using 'button heads' then 'fill' in to resemble a rivet. Where to store all the 251 parts during the build is a problem.....the spare bedroom was commandeered. Oh and by the way....who let the 'Tigers' out ????.....Mick :

[michael hilton]

Cleared the decks and started on the 251 front end build, so far so good.....bring on the rivets.

[Dennis Jones]

Hi Mick,

You may have to re-drill the holes on CM0311 that secure the side covers CM0503 if you want the top of the side covers to come below the line of rivets on CM0311, I had to. Position them first to see as it would be easier to do before you assemble and rivet. I think my holes had to be about 10 mm lower. Also as you can see from the photo there are couple of rivets that need to be either ground off or left out on the lower edge of the covers. I also rounded off the edges of the covers, looks more authentic.

Dennis.

[Tom Wittstock]

Hello Mick, going back a few steps in regards to your leaf spring pictures 6 and 7th pictures. I noticed a small hole (on center) on underside of your leaf spring. Was that there or did you drill that hold to keep then in place? I don't remember seeing that on mind. When I tighten the four screws down to hold the leaf springs from moving side to side I hope I didn't forget something.

[michael hilton]

Hello Tom, thank you for post. Regarding the front suspension spring, I drilled a hole down through the spring at the centre and fitted a bolt. I remember way back in the 1950s when I drove for a haulage firm, the leaf springs on the lorries had this centre bolt to prevent the 'leaves' moving. It's not necessary, just adding my 'mark' to the build.

Hello Dennis, thank you for the advice, I have dropped the engine 'covers' down to expose the line of rivets and fitted a bracket ( as per your photograph) to support the silencer.
Looks more and more like an 'early transformer'......if I close one of the front viewing ports......it winks

[Tom Wittstock]

Hello Mick, going back a few steps in regards to setting the suspension arms. What bolt holds the suspension arm and did you have to apply Loctite to each of them

[michael hilton]

Hello Tom, regarding the suspension arm. I applied a small drop of 'blue' Loctite on the M3x6 grub screw, this is medium strength adhesive. I never have subjected my tanks to anything other than gentle running on a hard surface, and a number of 'display shows'. So my builds follow the Armortek book, I occasionally replace the grub screws with hex head bolts. I can manage a spanner better than an Allen Key (arthritic fingers)....Mick

Hello Dennis, thank you for your reply, I will see how I go with the rear doors. regarding the hinges, I think either way will work. Still not sure what to do with the rear compartment layout, really fancy the searchlight route....Mick

[John Fitzsimons]

Going together nicely. Looks like a great kit to work on.

[michael hilton]

Hello John, and thank you. Yes, this kit is a relaxing easy build....I can recommend it.
Now...if only I had the mind of an engineer....following two days of pondering why the lower brackets would not line up on the rear doors.....the penny dropped. Part numbers CM0511 and CM0511M are 'handed' left and right. .....Easy peasey....Mick

[Dennis Jones]

Hi Mick,

I think Eric Ho mentioned the handing in his build blog but I must admit I made the same mistake but forgot to mention it.

Dennis.