Centurion #18

[Kevin Hunter]

Thanks Mark
As suspected I c*cked up.
Didn't occur to me that the holes were tapped...... When the bolts wouldn't push through I eased the hols with a drill! Should have asked first.
Have subsequently removed the 2 offending nuts/bolts which interfered with the glacis, and replaced with a shorter M3 hex head superglued in place. I have left the 2 middle inner nuts/bolts in place - the minor alteration to hull sides will not show once painted and hidden beneath the glacis and track guards.
Bottom line is that I have managed to bodge a solution to a problem that didn't or shouldn't exist! I have 9 hex heads visible each side, 8 of which are fastened with nuts, one of which is a "dummy" glued in. Probably not ideal but hopefully ok.
Still learning...... My next tank should be a breeze.
Kevin

[Kevin Hunter]

Far from complete, but mobile...................Cent No 18 made its public debut at Guernsey's West Show. It's our equivalent of a county show and the local model engineering club always put on an exhibition of models, in addition to running our 5" portable railway for the kids (and some dads!)
The tank generated lots of interest - rare as hens teeth down here.
Still, back to the workshop now....................
Kevin

[paul&robinmargle]

Hi Kevin,

I did a double-take there you seem to have got to the same stage as me.
Looks good.

Robin

[Kevin Hunter]

Possibly Robin, but I have to undo and redo a few bits which were only temporary in order to show the tank, so I may be behind you still

Main issues to resolve are the main gun and recoil. Elevation needs tweaking (still some binding in the bracket slide I think), and have had issues getting the brass recoil barrel extension piece to line up through the guide bush - possibly cross threaded, but something definitely doesn't line up right

I'll get there in the end...........hopefully!

Mark - if you're reading......the sound module plays the idle sound with a break, best likened to a gap in the sound at the end of each "loop". It starts off ok, but after driving and coming to rest the problem occurs. Would appreciate any suggestion to get around this please?

Regards

Kevin

[Adrian Harris]

> the sound module plays the idle sound with a break, best likened to a gap in the
> sound at the end of each "loop"

This is a problem with all the TBS5 modules - I can get the same effect on the Sherman and the new Tiger sound cards. I think shutting down the "engine" and starting up again will cure it.

Adrian.

[Kevin Hunter]

Thanks for your input Adrian, reassuring to know it isn't just me.
You'll be pleased to hear that your fan control unit worked well throughout the 2 day show.
Kevin

[Adrian Harris]

Glad to hear it Kevin

I have just four units left from this production run, if anyone else is interested...

Adrian.

[Kevin Hunter]

I've got my second wind, and now resolutely back at work on my tank.

Quick question please fellow Cent builders. The pairs of rear mudguard brackets, are they fitted with the fixing holes forward or aft of the vertical upright part?

Also if anyone has used Steve Winstone's bin latches, how are they attached? Good old superglue? Presume it might be an idea to drill and rivet the hook plate as per the original Armortek catch plates?

As always, good to hear your experiences.

Thanks, Kevin

[paul&robinmargle]

Hi Kevin,

Good to see you back to it.
I fitted the rear mudguard bracket with the upright to the rear (in line with the fold) and added another bolted strip, see here: http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/viewt ... 1&start=75
I think the exhaust cover won't fit if you put it the other way around.

Regards,
Robin

[Kevin Hunter]

Thanks for that Robin, appreciate the pointer.
Cheers
Kevin

[Kevin Hunter]

I feel I've reached a milestone in my build, and finally got the recoil working. Well.......almost.
On firing the gun, LEDs flash correctly but the barrel moves forward first then backwards. It also seems to cycle twice sometimes, but not sure if that's down to me not deselecting "fire" quickly enough.
As regards the barrel movement what have I done wrong? I'm convinced that all wiring is correct. Could it be so simple as the servo upside down? My installation matches the instructions with the servo spindle on the right, as you look at it.


Any suggestions gratefully received.
Thanks, Kevin

[Adrian Harris]

Wouldn't it work correctly if the servo arm started at 10 o'clock instead of 8 o'clock, in your photo, so that it starts above the centre line of the barrel

Adrian.

[Adrian Harris]

The diagram on Page 7 of the recoil instructions shows the recoil system, albeit fitted to a T34, with the dog-leg of the servo sitting above the centreline of the barrel.

Adrian.

[Dave Nadin]

Hi Kevin,
seen the problum with your recoil servo, Had the same problum when building my centruion. the way i worked out the servos setting was. With the servo drop arm discornected at the push arm, I powered up the control system which allowed the servio to innailaise and stop in its full forwared postion. You need to fire the gun and observe the servo arm movement. the arm should swing from approx the 8 oclock postion anticlock wise to the approx the 4 oclock postion, then return slowly to the 8 oclock.
Keep the servo powered up & set the drop arm at the 8 oclock postion. Once you have the correct servo arm swing, ( it took a few atttempts to get it just right) Power off and power on the servo will reinatillise and rest at the 8 oclock postion ( barrel forwared), cornect the barrel and test

Hope this helps you Dave N centurion 25 aka brenda

[Kevin Hunter]

Hi Dave
Thanks for the advice. I did all that per the manual, but with the servo arm at 8 o'clock the barrel goes forward. However....
Adrian. - simple logic, probably obvious but not to a novice following the build manual , In the Cent manual, the crank arm is definitely pictured below the centerline. My servo arm now repositioned above centre to the 10 o'clock position and .... Bobs your uncle!

Thank you both for your help.
Onwards and upwards
Kevin