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More pics of the old girl on the range

A little more progress using lots of donated parts, she's going to have a miss match of bolt on's as the old girl will represent a vehicle that has seen lots of action and therefor been back at the field worshop many times .....Phil

Some more photos of interest of the old Tigers on the range

A little more progress inc some nice Armortek tracks all the way from OZ ...thanks Liam.
The quick wheel fix I am not happy with so I will have to be patient and hang on for some replacement wheels
I suppose it's time to say it ...merry Christmas to all you guys out there.

More progress, she's gradually coming together.I have all this to do again very soon with the very badly damaged Tiger.

Now there's a photo of a Tiger 1 that you don't see very often!

A little more progress with the ol girl, here's a nice collection of old film. Tigers in winter camo probably the best I have ever seen it almost temps me to have a go. .

Some more pics of the old girls on the range and stuff.

Nice pics!

Unfortunately aluminium shows another kind of deformation than armored steel when hit by AP shells. I fear this cannot be simulated correctly without using real steel.



Unfortunately several hits to this armor plate came from behind, but some front hits are also viewable, and one can see the cratering around the hit against the flying direction of the shell.

I love it , it's a fascinating subject Gerhard. In the past I have been paid to research such things and I hope saving many lives in the process.
It's quite nice to simulate the effects in our 1/6th scale and the Armortek range has allowed me to do this.
You and your steel already Sorry video removed

cheers Phil.

Hello Phil,

awesome video! Very nice and interesting!

Well it all starts again (I am having a break from the restorations) never a moments peace. Just taken delivery from Armortek of 2/3 of Tiger 131 the rest I have in stock.
I will try not to bore people with to much of the same "build a Tiger from the box", sorry this will be a build with my own take on the process, as usual! (sorry dont want to put people down, I love all the build threads from you guys)
I have a few ideas for the suspension, an so maybe improve the inertia characteristics (well tailor to my own requirements more like) as i intend to emphasise the lurch and dip of the vehicle under braking and gear changes.
Briefly; to start I want to rearrange the torsion bars so that the lighter ones are at the ends of the chassis with the heaver in the middle, Has anyone tried this yet?
If it doesn't work then I shall simply install them again in the correct positions.
As its all new and clean and in bits it will make the job a whole lot easier.

The winter tank shop as I call it is a large ish shed (16 x 8 feet) and super insulated, with a good elecric heater which allows the painting processes to continue all year round, working in high temperatures is lovely in the winter.The large machine shop/garage sweats with temperature changes in the winter so is not used so much until spring.

Hi Phil,

interesting ideas to the inertia characteristics! I think if you use the light torsion bars at both ends you will get 2 disadvantages:

1. The tank will swing, when you don't use shockers. This may be acceptable.

2. The track links will raise the first and the last roadwheel when stretched correctly. I fear this may not be acceptable!

The second point can especially be watched when steel track links are used, because of their heavier weight.

In my eyes the most important point is a very smooth-running bearing of the axles for the pivot arms! Here ball or needle bearings should be used to earn best agility, then the inertia characteristices increase automatically. A tank with a pretty good road train will sink one mm when a cup of tea is places on an edge of the hull, and it will raise this mm again when the cup ist removed!

I like your thinking Gerhard! I shall assemble the suspension arms with good orings and a light oil to help with the friction points.

Very intriguing idea!

I have been thinking along similar lines and once I met another modeler at a show and we discussed this. He said that "all you have to do is take a PET bottle, some pneumatic cylinders for the first and last axles and some electric valves to control them and you will be able to simulate that easily".
"All you have to do...", I'll say. But apparently, he was into industrial automation with pneumatics, so I guess it would be easy for him. I was thinking to control the system with an Arduino or similar to take the derivative or maybe second derivative of the speed and use that to control the cylinders. I suspect the possibilities are endless and the results potentially super cool.
But I have a few other things to do first...

Cheers,
/Chris