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You lazy begger Paul

Stew

Don’t worry lads there will be more parts that need to be cleaned in the future.
Thanks for the link Paul I have tried to find it before but failed so now I have got it.
How do you get in contact with Tim Catton and is he still doing parts?
Regards
Timbo

Tim, young Mr Catton is still making his great add ons

timcatton@tiscali.co.uk

or

tim.catton@epr.co.uk

Look and thou shall find

Stew

Timbo,

Stewart has listed Tim Catton's email address's, but one thing for you to consider as you are in Australia, I had to send Tim my kit Head lights, side lights and clock, so he could rework them, so it maybe better to send them sooner rather than later

Tim just made those parts for me a month ago, and I know he has made at least two other set within the same period, so you stand a good chance of him doing it for you

Paul

Thanks Paul and Stewart
I Emailed Tim Catton and received a reply back, with pictures and pricing.
Like parliament budgets time to reallocate some funds as the war effort is very important!
In addition I received an envelope with some reverts in it, thanks Dale.
Also to Tim Bowman for sending me some pics of the real thing, great stuff.
Question what channel transmitter do you suggest 6?
Do the tracks help steer as well as the front wheels?
Here is pack 3 Driven case finished



Stay tuned fellow hobbyist
Timbo

Hi Tim, it quite light at the front end, so placing the battery over the front wheels helps the steering, but if you need to turn more sharply you use the tracks
regards
Jeff

Hi Tim. I found that the weight of the batteries at the front were too heavy for the steering servo. I also found that wiith this extra weight the running time of the servo battery was very short. In the end I put the batteries back to the rear of the Half Track and placed the 4QD gear under the bonnet.
Skid steering is easy to master once you have got the tension on the tracks correct. I overcame the short running time with the servo battery by using a BEC unit to power the steering servo direct from the 24V battery pack.
Apart from the 88 I found this to be the most satisfying model to build as the scope for additional parts is really endless.
I look forward to seeing the next installements of your build
Happy building

Colin

Hi Guys,

The new motion pack that Tim has with his kit has a built in BEC, and the steering servo is an uprated one from the original.

I have had a look at the new motion pack and it looks like it will all have to go in the back, but being a typical bloke I haven't read the manual yet

Paul

Thanks for the input guys, very helpful
Run time is an issue that is very prevalent with me, one never knows what it’s got to tow?
And whilst if it ran flat it would be just like the real think running out of fuel I rather be enjoying it cruising than cursing.
So I have temporally skip pack 4 and have started on pack 5.
I want to progress with the running gear I spent a lot of time on my Tiger (get back to it one day) running gear, it has paid me back well .
The layout of the motion pack will be quite interesting
I work on pack 5 today very satisfying to put together, it is dry fitted at the moment so it will come apart so I can spray the axles with Dry film lubricant




Looks like some freaky ladder with spider legs
Stay tuned fellow hobbyist
Timbo

Hello Tim

Just a build tip when you do the leaf springs put a pin/ bolt in to trap the springs on the pads. keeps them in place. or they will keep falling out.

Lee

Thanks for the heads up Lee
I have done one spring pack
The last time I did one of these was during a resto on my Vette

Lee if you get a chance could you advise if my photo with the arrow, has shown were to put a bolt or pin?


Regards
Timbo

Hi Tim,

No Lee means to put a pin here



These springs are held in place by the weight of the unit, but if you lift the rear for any reason, they fall out, so a pin at eather side stops it

Paul.

I've seen on Vince Abbott gallery pictures of the real one, and there is a bolt + nut also where Tim says.
It can be useful to mantain the bars at the correct position also if you want to loose the retaining bolts.
A contersunk screw inserted from below, and a nut on the top could be the correct way.
This is the other sunspension, but I think the other is the same.
http://vincesgallery.smugmug.com/Histor ... 3687_UiUxS

Another thing is about the sunspension in this picture: I found on my halftrack that if it is wheight off wheel and suspensions are free to falling, the forward sunspension can rotate and in some circumstances could cause blockage of the track and suspension. I experienced it (and the other one falled out) just moving it on the ramps to the car or table.

Missed to say that I solved for the rotation of the suspension by adding a thin brass strip that results 6mm longer on each side of the spring leaf. It is sufficient to eliminate the problem and the suspension will work on the softer brass surface.

Thanks for the advice on the leaf springs
I added the pins, works well
So pack 6 and 7 are finished


I have taken note of Andrea Daviero post re track tension and the reply from Mark for when I get to that stage
Stay tuned fellow hobbyist
Timbo