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Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:56 am
by Stephen White
Just to say that I've followed Mick's instructions with the Benedini rotary switch and the Futaba 7C and it works a treat. Not too difficult to do even with my fat fingers. Thanks Mick. If you're interested, I've put some pictures on page 5 of my Pz III thread.
Regards
Stephen
Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 3:13 pm
by Mick Regan
Hi All
I've added a post of my pictures and narrative @
http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/viewt ... f=2&t=1716
Hope it helps
Cheers
Mick
P.S. If anyone is interested in any other systems or radios, I'll consider adding more "How to" posts.
Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 9:58 pm
by Steve Stuart
Hi Mick
Thank you for a really clear and staightforward explanation of how to fit the Benedini Encoder. I, and any others who find your instructions, will be very grateful as it seems to be relatively easy. Your photographs make each step simple to follow.
Armeerket.com.....simples
I have hunted high and low on the net for an explanation, and it is great that the paticipants on this forum came up trumps!
So many thanks again, your help is much appreciated.
Steve
Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 9:22 pm
by Steve Stuart
Hi All
A report, the conversion went smoothly. The hardest bit was unsoldering the old switches, it required more work than the rest of the job! The next thing is to reprogram the sound unit.
Another benefit of moving from a Futaba 6EX to the 7C-2.4GHz is that the
gun elevation now works with complete control.
Steve
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 5:23 am
by Mick Regan
Steve
What you need is a "solder sucker" like this :
Makes desoldering a lot easier
Mick
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:49 pm
by Steve Stuart
Mick
Thanks for another useful tip, it would have made it easier!
Now a confession, I now seem to have sucessfully and comprehensively de-programmed my Benedini sound unit.
I down loaded the full manual and thought I was doing what was needed to switch the parameters to allow the encoder to opperate it. It was allowing the engine sound to fire up and to be switched off now it does nowt! How foolish I now feel, and I now again ask if anyone has some advice?
This is the story of my Tiger, two steps forward, one back, another forward, one back again and then two forward again.
It keeps me from getting bored as there is always a solution to a problem to be found!
Thanks
Steve
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 11:32 pm
by Mick Regan
Steve
If you are only getting the engine sound, then you need to assign the sounds to the encoder switch positions. When you first switch on, how many clicks are you getting from the sound card. If you are getting more than 1, then you are in the wrong control mode and you need to change it as per pages 12&13 of the manual.
Once you are in the right mode, reassign the sounds as per page 10.
Hope this helps
Mick
Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 7:52 pm
by Steve Stuart
Hi Mick
This evening I have been down to the garage again with the instructions determined to get it sorted.
My first finding is that the small programming button was best pressed with the end of a cut off bicycle spoke, giving a much more positive feel than my finger nail!
The second, was that it is important to be quick in pushing the button after the light flashed, if it was left slightly too long it doesn't work.
So now it all works, I am feeling very pleased
Thanks again
Steve
Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:38 pm
by Stuart Humphrey
Lee there is another way!!! Thomas has a circuit diagram on his website to use 12 pushbuttons to give the 12 functions to control the TBS5. I've knocked this up using a couple of small plastic boxes that fit either side of the central 'hump' of the 7C and 9C radios. It's easier to see than explain!
Thomas's encoder is now around the £50 mark what with the current exchange rate, with this idea you can buy the bits for about half that and in case of a fault (!!) you can repair it! If you're interested I can mail you a pic of the general arangement.
Stuart Humphrey UKTC President
Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 7:02 pm
by Mick Regan
Hi Stuart
I've got a picture of my 7C with your switch packs at the end of this post :
http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/viewt ... f=2&t=1716
If anyone is interested, I could do a "How to" post on the setup
As far as I'm concerned, it is the perfect setup for controlling the Benedini.
Cheers
Mick
Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:56 pm
by Stuart Humphrey
Oh yeah, doh!
A picture tells a thousand words as they say. The circuit diagram is part of Thomas's TBS Mini PDF Document which can be found here,
http://www.benedini.de/Home_E/Products_E/TBSMini1_E.pdf
scroll down to page 6 for the diagram. I used RS waterproof tactile switches mounted on some Veroboard housed in slim plastic boxes with a little bit of jiggery pokery and voila!
As Mick says, I reckon it's probably the easiest way of controlling a Benedini as you don't have to release the sticks to make a noise. If you hold the Tx with the flat of your palm against each side of the Tx case, use your thumbs for the stick ends and wrap your fingers around the back of the case your fingers naturally fall onto the switches. Of course, I am biased
I've got another set to do for another model so if I think about it I'll take some more pictures to explain how it's done.