Should I have looked harder…

[Eric Reinhard1]

…before I leapt? Hello all! Again another, very basic, noob question/concern. Let me backtrack a bit; I’ve always had a fascination for scale models and RC. Armortek seems to be at or near the pinnacle of scale RC armor. My intent with the Leo 2A4 I have on order is not only to have an excellent scale representation but also a “fun” model to run (one of the reasons I ordered the Leo 2). As a modern MBT, I’m looking forward to run it at “scale” speeds. I know there will be wear and tear with a 200 lb model, and have read (with a small bit of apprehension) of parts seaming to wear prematurely (ie. drive sprockets) hence my noob question:

In all of your experience, how durable are Armortek models?

I realize there are many variables in operating a model of this size, just do not want this to become a monetary sink hole if I’m expecting too much of it.

As always, thanks for your responses.

[Adrian Harris]

I would say they are pretty durable...

That one is still going strong.

They are not really something you can get out of the garage, run round the garden and then leave for a couple of months.
If you run them for any length of time, they do need proper maintenance, both preventative and running repairs.

In our group we have tanks which have been running every year for 15 to 16 years. In that time, they've had new tracks, occasionally new sprockets and new batteries, but it tends to be the ones which have been run for the longest which run the best.

Remember when you had to run in the engine on your new car ? The same sort of thing helps with these tanks.

On the subject of speed, I don't know what Armortek have planned for the drive system but I doubt the Leopard will be capable of 12kph. Having a 200lb tank running at that speed would be seriously dangerous

Adrian.

[Eric Reinhard1]

Adrian, thanks for the information (and reassurance. ). Guess I’m suffering a little buyer’s remorse…

I’m fortunate in that I live on some acreage with plenty of room to run, so I do hope Armortek does design that capability into the model (or at least close ).

[Paul Sparkes]

Lots of owners are scared to drive the tanks in case they break, wear something out or the battery goes flat.
IMO That is not the point in owning such a model, you either shelf model them or drive them like intended.
Ive seen tanks arrive at events and go from car to parking spot ( 10 feet) and stay there all day. I've also seen tanks on their side and had to help recover the parts.
Sometimes at events we spend time helping fix broken tanks, its part of the fun and gives us something to do.
Many owners have found alternative solutions to common problems and even sell the fixes to fellow owners to help.
If you do drive it like intended just be aware that something will break or need repairing and will probably cost, if your happy with that enjoy.

On the subject of speed, I don't know what Armortek have planned for the drive system but I doubt the Leopard will be capable of 12kph. Having a 200lb tank running at that speed would be seriously dangerous

Adrian.

Im sure someone will find a solution to scale speed, but safety maybe a concern. Drifting a leopard sound like a challenge though

[Gerhard Michel]

Hi Eric,

I own only one Armortek model (Jagdpanther), but some models from other manufacturers in 1/6 scale, e.g. Bigtanks, Nils Hermann and Spearhead. Therefore I can evaluate and compare the durability of such models under heavy conditions. We drive our models not only from the car to the parking area, but also in very heavy grounds. Tree felling (up to 2 m) and sand digging are fully included.

Some desert rats...




Full breaking....




The quarter scale models have some advantages in heavy grounds............




..... but 1/6 scale is also able to manage all challenges of our proving grounds.





I mean that a tank is a tank and has to be treated like a tank. Only this gives maximum driving fun!





Here I can say that Armortek models are really able to be moved also under such 'bad' conditions, and till now there were no bigger injuries besides some broken track links due to wet sand or stones in the track drive. This kind of damage is not very rare under such conditions; therefore it's a good idea to have all components for replacing track links at hand.

A non-Armortek model lost two pivot arms when catching a large stone in the drive train, because its steel track links are undestroyable. You see that such durable components may also have disadvantages, because a broken track link would have been by far the minor damage.

[Steve Stuart]

I don't know where in the world you live, but have a look at the events listing and you will see that there are groups dotted around the place! I would encourage you to join in, the 1/6 fraternity are welcoming to new faces. The social side provides great support also, there is nothing like somebody else being a resource for advice and help looking over your actual shoulder.
If there is seemingly nothing in your area then maybe organise something yourself? Your Garden may be big enough or it might be a local model show for example, that could be the host instead.
All the best! Steve

[Jerry Carducci]

I'm one of those who isn't afraid to run my models at all. While relatively new to 1/6 scale armor I'm not new to the hobby. I've run a few of
my core models a lot but as my collection has grown over the years run time has decreased. When I first began with 1/10 scale in the mid 1970s I ran
the two 1/10 scale models at least every weekend for close to 7 years and my run time per session was not for a few minutes and in the hard sticky adobe clay dirt common in the Sonoma valley and north SF bay area. I wore out the first sprockets and tracks on my first Panther although they're still on the model. I wasn't afraid of breaking parts and I'm still not with these bigger models. Parts failures can just happen. These 1/6 models are larger and much heavier but the parts are as well so I'm confident in my driving and operating ability to keep them running.

In all the years I've run my models I've only broken a track once and that was a smaller scale model. I ran it in an environment
that I should have known better of.

I'm hoping I can organize like minded modelers out here to plan sessions where we can run our Armortek models together and support each other. My only fear is being out somewhere on my own experiencing a breakdown that I can't resolve. Battery issues don't worry me as much as I have 'emergency' 24 volt packs with enough power to allow me to get back to my start point and home. I can circumvent the remote breakdown worry by simply running around my yard and local area.if I'm going to run alone. Part of my efforts is that I'm trying to develop methods of recovering models by myself. I feel this is important to provide a sense of safety. As I'm about to begin my King Tiger and both the Famo or the JgadTiger will follow after that I better have a reliable way to always recover them.

Jerry

[Peter Quambusch]

Hi Eric, As the others said, don´t be afraid to run your model to maximum fun....
I´ve been with my KT all over Europe (UK, DK, NL, DE,...) attending shows and / or tank meetings several times a year, for over 10 years now. Besides some "battle damage" and two broken taper locks, so far no issues....

Even giving kids a ride is no problem, and it makes their day!!

Thus, have fun building and even more fun driving!!!

Cheers
Peter

[John Clarke]

I think your right to have some concern for the running gear. The MTB's are heavy models and the Leo to my knowledge has "not known what metal" tracks. (BTW Remorse should only be reserved for the models you didn't own.)

Chieftain was blessed with steel and rubber pad tracks from the word go, with stainless sprockets to match, they are without doubt the best part of the model, even if they do weigh a hefty three times more than the alloy track.

I kick myself every time I look at the 10 spare track pieces I brought with the kit, £100.00 wasted.
Now knowing they'll only ever be used as a paper weight or a painful key fob if it were to fall the wrong way round in the trouser pocket.

If it were a alloy chevron shod track, I'd say stay away from concrete materials, kerb's, paving blocks and slabs, because the chevrons will disappear faster than you can write out a check for a new set of tracks.

If the rubber pads on the alloy track on the Leo are as good as Chieftain worry not, dry lube the pin's when constructing them, keep them dry and clean, stay away from any form of gravel. Keep monitoring the tension, (bit like the real thing) and consider a full strip down and lube every now and then. Knowing how many bits make up the track, it'll be a hobby all of it's own.
And remember ......... never, never ever feed them after midnight.

Welcome to the forum, looking forward to seeing the Leo on the bench. Enjoy the build

Your selling the model short at 200lbs, closer to 260lbs, 300lbs with steel tracks.

[Eric Reinhard1]

To all, a hearty thanks… a great international community and excellent advice. Especially the idea of hosting an event is intriguing. Certainly have the room to do so and sounds like a lot of fun. Retiring in a couple of years and will definitely have the time then.